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My car is similar to yours and I have a Edelbrock 650 AVS and it works well. It has a tendency to percolate the fuel after engine shutoff. I want to reinstall my AC system and was wondering which compressor your using? Got any close up pics?

Starts almost instantly and idles at 650 in gear. There is no hesitation anywhere and the plugs are a nice tan color. I don't know how you would make it run any better with parts that I have on it. I have been thinking about installing a wideband o2 sensor though.

Well I have them soldered and the mixture screws are 1 1/2 turns out and I have .040 of transfer slot showing. So basically back to where it was before the holes were drilled. I used red Loctite on the screws and I also distorted the threads a little with pliers. Thanks everyone for the help.

I have the butterflies out and it wasn't to bad. They have an interference fit and I backed them out slowly and can reuse them with some locktite. The converter I have is Edge 91/2 2600 to 2800 stall and it works great.

Hey AJ, yes the holes are 1/8 inch in diameter. My idle speed is 700 rpm in gear and the initial is 14* on a 372 displacement and the cam is a Lunati VooDoo 702 cam. Idles at 19 inches of vacuum. The idle adjustment screws are 21/2 turns out. Yes the best way is to replace them but I have...

May 650 Edelbrock carb has holes drilled in the primary butterflies from a previous cam install and now I want to repair them. What's the best way? Rivet, nut and bolt, or silver solder. Maybe epoxy? Of course the best way is just buy new ones but I can't find anyone that sells them. You...

Marathon opened a new gas station on the other side of town from me and they have a E0 pump. It's 90 octane and cost about $2.60 a gallon. Usually only find that stuff at marinas but was wondering is there any benefit running it in a car? I usually use Sunoco 93 octane and I have no spark...

Do I have to drill both sides, or just one? Since I don't have headers, where do I drill the hole?

Ok, it was a bad idea. So if I take my car to a dyno shop I'll have to weld in a sensor in the headpipe to get accurate air fuel reading.

Yea, It was confusing the way it was worded, I was in a hurry. Sorry for that. I just seen that Innovate made a tailpipe clamp on bracket for the 02 sensor for a handheld reader. Didn't know how well it would work. I just don't want to drill a hole in one of my headpipes. Thanks for the replies.

I'm thinking about buying a air fuel gauge for my car and I really don't want to weld in a sensor bung. I have stock exhaust manifolds with the 2.25 pipe and tips out the back. I see that they make a bracket that clamps on the tip and the sensor screws into it . The directions say it's accurate...

Bolt it together and have some fun with it this summer!

A stock 318 Magnum made 235 with a roller cam and fuel injection. Yea it was truck engine built for torque down low. And the magnum exhaust flowed almost as well as a set of headers at that power level. For what it's worth a stock 340 was rated pretty accurate at 275 horse. I just don't see...

There are articles on the internet showing how to get 300 HP out of a stock bore 318.

You really can't drill the intake for the Magnum heads, you have to drill and tap the heads for the LA intake. I think your over estimating the power output. I would think 280 to 290 would be closer. It would be hard to get a pickup truck to run 13's with a 318.

I gave up on it. By the time it was welded and machined flat again there wouldn't be any flange left, it would just crack someplace else. Now i'm looking for a M1 intake and having no luck. I might have to use a Edelbrock Air Gap, which I really don't want to. Anyone have M1 dual plane there...

It looks like it cracked in two places. I thought of having it tig welded but was afraid it wouldn't be flat anymore. I just had it angled milled to fit the head angle because of a oil leak in the lifter valley and it's really narrow at the sealing flange. It's had .030 taken off in total.

I have a 340 with Magnum heads and a Mopar M1 intake. I just cracked it rebolting it on the heads last night, so now it's junk. I think it was due to having it milled to much to make up for a bad intake to head angle. Of course the intake I have is no longer made. It was an Mopar M1 dual plane...

What if you ran a return line from the Edelbrock carb, using the other intake port, using fuel to cool the carb? Or is this just a dumb idea?

I have the initial set at 16* and I'm using manifold vacuum which bumps it up to 22*. That's about the limit as it'll kick back on the starter if I go over 16*.

I have a Edelbrock 650 AVS on my 340 and I'm not real happy with it. I know it won't have the performance of a Holley but that's ok. I just wanted something simple and leak free. The problem is at idle. I changed to a Comps Cam, XE274, last winter and it doesn't want to idle in gear at all...

IMO a 650 cfm carb is to small. An 800 cfm Edelbrock would be about right. I have a 650 Edelbrock on my 340 but it's not built as strong as yours, and it's to small for my car.

That carb is beautiful!

Thanks for the advice. I have 15 inches of vacuum at idle. I did rotate the covers and the rods and piston were down all the way. I have the timing set at 16 degrees, which is where Don at FBO setup my distributer. I took of the carb and measured the exposed slot. It was .068 which...

I am having a problem with my car at idle. It's a 340 with a 650 Edelbrock. It idle's really rich and the plugs are black and sooty, and the idle mixture screws have no effect on the idle. It's seems to be pulling fuel through the transfer slots. Is there another way to get more air into it...

A rusty throttle cable has happend to me too. Not fun if it hangs up at the wrong time.

This may be a dumb question, but, is the tank vented properly, is gas cap vented and working ok?

Maybe a fuel pump problem. Disconnect the mech and see if it still does it. Or maybe the electric pump is bad. Do you have a regulator? I had a problem with my 69 RR, and the pump crushed the carb float. Nice engine compartment by the way. Good luck!

Oops ! It's a 340/373ci zero decked k/b dish pistons Hughes cam-219I/ 228E duration at .050 522I/558E lift 111 lsa magnum replacement heads, 57cc, stock valves, gasket matched 9.68 comp. ratio Mopar M1 dual plane 340 exhaust manifolds and full stock 340 system 904 with hemi shift governer...

I have a 340 based 373 ci motor that is mainly to be used for the street driving. I used several online calculators and based on a ve of .86% they all say I need a 556 cfm carb. Even at 100% it only at a 647 cfm. I'm leaning toward a 650 Edelbrock and was wondering if its big enough. I hear...