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Clocking it actually put it in a spot where the frame has a downward slope to it so it wouldn't have done me much good there. It was just as close on the front side as it was on the back side of the peak of the frame. It's going up an inch on the axle mount because that's how far apart the...

Here's some shots of the interference I have between my rear disks and frame. The calipers hit at 11 inches at the coilover and the coilover can compress to 10.75. So I'm needing at least another .25" clearance. At this point I'm just going to raise the car for simplicity.

A longer line will alleviate that part of the problem. But I still need to get the body to clear so I'll try clocking them forward. Cass didn't mention what width the axle had to be in order to maintain clearance. Mine is 52-1/2 so I'm guessing somewhere around 53 or 54 inches would be...

I talked to Cass and he recommended trying to swap the adapter brackets side to side so that the calipers are on the fwd side of the axle instead of the back. If that doesn't work, I'll have to weld and re-drill the holes in the bracket or I'll be notching the frame. This isn't his first time...

It hit once going up and over an intersection and scraping on the downward compression when I had the shocks set at 0 clicks compression and once in a park going over a sidewalk that was above ground a bit. I've raised it 1/2" and set the compression setting much higher and I haven't had any...

Yes they are 98-04 or 94-04 Cobra rear disks. Can't recall the exact year range. The axles are 52-1/2 wide IIRC so they are shortened. I don't use a parking brake cable. I'll probably wish someday that I had one when I really need it but I removed it. I think that if I stay at this ride height...

The caliper body is actually hitting too so I'll have to raise the car, notch the frame, or re-drill the adapter brackets and try to clock the calipers back.

I just recently swapped to Dr. Diff rear disks. They went on without a hitch.....until I started driving the car. Apparently you can't run these with a narrowed rear and also lowered. I found this out the hard way of course but avoided any catastrophe luckily. This was not something I was...

Have mine plumbed after the valve. But it's the type of line lock that blocks fluid going to the rear brakes when activated so you can stand on the brakes all you want or as little as you want and nothing goes to the back. Works fine.

OK thanks

I really hate to hijack this thread, but I am having this same issue, except my car pulls left. Most of what everyone has suggested I've changed. Completely new front end, QA1 adjustable strut rods, new brake lines, new calipers, aligned, Dr Diff master cyl, aftermarket prop valve, etc. After...

When this happened to me after bleeding brakes, I adjusted the brake switch bracket a tiny bit at the pedal which fixed it...

I too used the Ni-Cu lines. Easy to bend, nice flares, no rusting.

This is how mine is plumbed. One in one out. When engaged it blocks fluid to the rear brake line. Therefore you apply all the brake pressure you want to the front brakes.

I just bought an aluminum master cylinder from Dr Diff. So much lighter than the drum MC I took off. I'm also using Copper Nickel brake lines. These things are amazing. So easy to bend, they don't kink, not supposed to rust, and they look nice. I put a full loop in one line and found the...

Cunifer lines I think are soft easy to bend. I think that was the name of them.

Mine was set up down low on the dash by my left knee. I didn't install it that way. Was like that when I got it. But mine seems to work differently than others. This one you have to hit the switch and then it blocks fluid flow to the rear brakes. So you still are stomping on the brakes when...

I too was looking at using the Cunifer brake lines as well. Looks like you can bend it in almost any manner you want with no kinking and double flaring works well on it. Also claims that it shouldn't rust. Seems like a win win to me.