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Not at all. I just won't know what I'm looking for until I physically take it off and look at it. I'm not hesitant to take the carb off. I've stripped the entire car down and rebuilt it front to back. A carb is nothing to take off. It's the functionality part of it is where I get hesitant...

I'll look into that. Wish I had someone close that could help me out as I don't really know what I'm doing with that aspect of the carb. A little research will be in order for sure.

Hahaa I'm laughing! Yes it's about as extreme as I want to go on cam for a car that I drive on the street as much as I do. And yes it's a stroker so it eats up that duration. It's a manual brake car, mechanical advance on the dizzy, the floats have been set properly, it happens whether I get...

I could be wrong on that. RPM jumps around at idle in gear so it's really probably hanging around 800-1000. It's a healthy cam 266/272 @ .050 and a 106 LSA and .645 lift and it's fairly lopey. I have to touch the pedal sometimes to keep it going. I've tried tuning it, my engine builder tried...

I agree with others. Sounds like some timing and/or carb tuning issues. That really should be a decent cruiser with that cam. I'm running a bit more cam than what you have on my street/strip ride, but I have the idle set to about 1200 rpm and drops down to about 800 in gear. Takes about 2-3...

Defintely be finding this out and hope the guy is honest about it.

Yes I looked up what a 500 CI stroked 440 was (I wasn't familiar), as in what stroker kit that would be with rod length, stroke, etc. That's why I was saying I'm "assuming" those numbers are correct on the stroker setup because that's what I came across. If there's rattling under load, it...

Ok with the info you gave, I made some assumptions and just used an online dynamic CR calculator (Wallace Racing). My inputs (which may need corrected) were: Bore: 4.32 Stroke: 4.15 Rod Length: 6.76 Static CR: 11.2:1 Inlet valve closes ABDC: 55 Boost pressure: 0 Target altitude: 1000...

The card doesn't happen to have the valve opening and closing events does it? Need that for the dynamic CR. 97 octane shouldn't be an issue, unless 97 is something different than in the states? I haven't heard of 97 before....

I wouldn't be too worried about 11.2:1 static. I'd be more concerned with what your dynamic CR is. That will tell you more about what fuel you can run than static will. For example, my setup is a stroked SB 11:1 static, iron heads, 91 octane. What makes it work on 91 is the big cam that...

I agree with this. But don't get caught up too much in flow numbers. I've had my W2 heads on 2 different flow benches and both were very different. As long as the port job was done well, those heads will make some power. There are some things that aren't going to show up on a flow bench but...

I just picked my W2's up from Speier Racing heads over the weekend. I don't think he enjoys the iron work (he hand ported), but I'll give him a high recommendation though. And he got it done in a month or so although he quoted 5-6 weeks at first. I learned a lot from chatting with him...

Guess who's getting excited now!? <<<<<<<<<<<< THIS GUY

Just out of curiosity Chad, are air velocity and flow not directly related? Wondering why one would focus more on the air velocity. I'm just trying to learn.

I'd have to agree with you on that. That's probably more important than the max flow number at a high lift that the valves never open to. My hopes are that the heads I have will flow 300 cfm @ .600 lift when Chad gets done with them. If he gets them there, I think the mid flow numbers will be...

Welcome to the site Chad!

Speier is going to charge $600 to get them to flow over 300. All the ports are inconsistent from whoever ported them before.

Speier Racing Heads was recommended to me by some members here. http://www.speierracingheads.com/. I'll be taking taking mine up to him within the next week or so. I don't have any idea what he charges but it sounds like he knows his stuff.

Also check into PTC. I don't know a whole lot about them other than a friend runs one in his pro mod car and recommended it. Their 9.5" is $475. That seems cheap so I'm a little weary of that. But Tim at PTC did say it's a billet front with furnace brazed fins, etc which some other companies...

Lenny said that he would take a deposit on a converter so that you could lock in on the price if you didn't necessarily need the converter right now or just couldn't afford it. Then pay later. Just a thought. And yes the videos on youtube are my old setup. The new one is still in progress.

That's what happened to me.

Yes it was just under 14:1 CR with a .559 lift solid flat tappet with 255 ish duration @.050. I had no choice but to run race fuel. Due to the direction I was going with the rebuild, the bigger roller cam was the way to go to try and keep as much horsepower as I had before while lowering the...

I think you're more on the right track with that cam.

Your setup sounds similar to mine. Building a 417 SB with closed chamber W2's. My priority was pump gas as well as power for the rebuild. So I left all that up to the guys that do this for a living. Ended up with 11:1 static and somewhere around 8:1 (I think) dynamic. Cam is a comp roller...

Geez I dunno. I rechecked that I wasn't 180 degrees out, rotated the distributor back and forth as my wife cranked it, made sure I had spark, looked to make sure it wasn't flooding while the pump was on, took the throttle and opened it up a couple times, tried once more and BOOM, started right...

Ok so here's a different problem I have. The car won't even start at all. I pulled the distributor to make sure the pertronix unit will fit, put the original back in, changed the jets back down, and now it doesn't even try to kick on. Just cranks and cranks. I only pumped it like I normally...

I talked to an engine builder today and he was saying that the pertronix ignitions like the one I bought are "badass" in his words. He said he uses msd units in his cars but he beats them up a lot and the pertronix would work good for my motor. He highly recommended them. The lines should...

I'll check the battery again, but I'm pretty sure it's good. From what I'm finding, I am getting more voltage through the system than there should be. The voltage spikes to 40 volts at times at the coil and at the ballast resistor. I changed the voltage regulator and that didn't do anything...

Performed a sudo cylinder leak test. Set my air tank regulator to about 10 psi and I think every bit of air went into the crankcase. I covered one valve cover hole and placed a small plastic bag over the other hole and then filled a cylinder with air. The plastic ballooned fairly quickly...

It's fairly new as far as miles go. I was told the motor MAYBE had 200 miles on it when I got it and and haven't driven it but 50 miles if even that. The motor has been running for a few years I believe. Also the distributor has a magnetic pickup type system, not points as I ammumed it was.