Search results for query: *

What gear for a duster, 340, 727, 3000 converter?

Thanks, got it. That 69 Charger we restored, with a Dvorack 9.3 CR, and a Forte tranny kicks butt. Therefore the owner wants lock-been in pass seat when he went into neutral on 2-3 shift, rev limiters good thing.

My bad, not reverse shift.

Years ago, a fellow member showed cutting a slit in console shifter, in order not to go in neutral with a reverse pattern. Anybody remember it? Search doesn't find it.

2 year old thread.

And by that, I meant getting an adjustable snubber mount.

Basically, what you need to do, is have a buddy video the launch. Put some white grease on the pinion snubber; see if it is hitting. Then adjust from there.

3 more down.

I'm going to po a member. 2? at the back? Rocks hit them. 2? what converter needs that? Is it a trailer queen?

If it starts, rule out that switch statement. The first test would be; un-hook the linkage . in park or neutral, start it. Now with your hand, shift it, from under the car. Report back.

oh, heck. put a 30 diam on it ,with a 4.88, and have some fun.

Agree, back in the day; under 2 with a 340, if it didn't burn-tune problem

wise azz

No 1st gear braking is scaring us; Paul Forte told me it is used on the street. Any warriors use it?

Had it working fine (bouchillian cable) on a 750 Edelbrock on a mild 440. New Turbo Action trans. Then put on a MSD Atomix EFI. Throttle is fine from idle to WOT. Problem is the arm on the EFI is wrong geomatrey; not enough line pressure. A fix? besides trial and error?

Thinking further; un-hooked the rods, from column to trans. Pulled the column lever up, in the bay, so steering wouldn't lock, and welded/wired it there.

Have a 70, but ripped that out in 71, been a long time. Seems there is a switch under the dash, to the clutch pedal, or the rod going to the steering lock on the column, in the engine bay. It's not on the shifter itself. Can't remember at 62 years old.Seems like it was with the steering wheel...

When you separate the valve body, there is a ball in there that hits the woods.

Been there... the front pump doesn't run in park, only neutral and in gear. Pull the plate, look for shiney marks, look at the bolts, and see which one has a shiney head.

What idiots built it?

Can't hear, camera picking up too much header noise. If it is erractic; loose bolt hitting the cover, usually.

Put the trans yoke in trans; pull out 1" . measure from center of u-joint to the flat part of the rear yoke( center of the rear u-joint). If on stands, jack rear end up until it wants to come off the stands=ride height.

Set it on the ground, measure from trans rear shaft to rear yoke. Go to local driveshaft people.

Call Cope Transmission, in Texas.

Yep, there is slack, in the linkage. Adjust until it shifts hard, then have fun. The rod puts more line pressure to the clutches/bands. It also raises shift rpm. As far as kickdown, that should solve it.

Oh, no kickdown invovles linkage and or governor.

Agree with the above. tuning and carb, first. Listen to Rob on the timing, throw away they factory book. "can feel the secondaries come in" that is a bog. "bad milage" doubt that is the converter. "curb- no tach" You can't tell what the assembly is doing without a tach. An example; I helped a...

The rocks bouncing up............

Ok, the scenario; got rid of the eddy rich brock; installed msd atomic efi. Sweet, once you realize the instructions are crap. Problem is; it was shifting early with the eddy, and new trans/throttle cable- left that for later. Installed the efi, got it tuned. Now time to fine tune shift rpm...

That looks like 1/8- you just killed the flow.