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Dr.diff kit is nicer, I've used the mp and dr.diff, the problem with the dr.diff kit, it's been out of stock for a long time. 6 months, a year, I don't know. Every time I emailed him i got The same story, New fabricator making them, they'll be available in a couple weeks. The mp kit is funny...

Yeah I guess everything can be subjective. It’s possible the suspension has bottomed out a couple times but it is definitely not too low. I have full length headers on the car they would be scraping everywhere. Ride is nice on the highway. Handles great around turns. Potholes and rr tracks...

on my duster which is bb and t56, I have 1" bars, hellwig tube sway bar, moog offset upper bushings, reinforced upper shock mounts, stiffner plates on the lower control arms, expo 6 leaf with delrin front eye bushings, hotchkis Fox shocks. Cordoba front brakes and explorer disc 8.8 rear. 17s. I...

I put a hellwig tube bar on my duster like 10 years ago that I swear used the shock bolts to mount the tabs. I don't remember welding tabs on for it. Looking at how far off those would be from the stock tabs I wonder if it's a different bar. I take that back I went out and looked it's a bolt...

I have the 1 3/4 tti headers and borgeson box with stock k frame. They fit fine. My stock ps box touched the header.

I was thinking 16. It's definitely thin

I used the uscartool frame connectors on both of my cars. I really like the design. he definitely has some cool products. the spring relocation kit is pretty cool along with the minitub kit. there is some talk going around about them going out of business, so im not sure id order from him right...

i set up my 74 duster to handle decent, its got a bb and viper 6 speed. gets 20 mpg on the highway. i think it would do a lot better with more compression and a more efficient combo.this was just to get it rolling. it handles pretty damn good for what it is. all iron bb, stock power steering...

i dont think they make a 315 for a 14" tall rim. every time i read posts from tooslow, i think i need to see pics of this car.

im not sure if it was bronxmopars, but i remember seeing an abody with a straight axle and he kept the stock manual box in the stock location and chopped the rest of the k frame out.

try a member bronxmopars

the shock towers on my 74 duster flexed enough to buckle up the inner fenders and break loose the spot welds. i did find one weld on the shock tower to frame rail that didnt penetrate into the frame rail, so that would have had a lot to do with it, but to say the shock toweres dont flex or not...

i hate air shocks. traction bars, well if set up right, they can work great. even on a mopar. i have actually seen some fast mopars at the track with traction bars and air shocks. i was scratching my head thinking wtf??? but it flat out worked. i could see using them get yourself leveled back...

dont forget to check your toe also. any change you make effects the toe so check it last. toe will also eat the outsides of the tires. oh and i like the car, heres mine when i got it and after a few tweaks

doesnt someone sell a ball joint stud spacer for that? dr.diff i think?

even air shocks are a better aproach

im pretty sure the coupler has a stop in it, the pin only goes in and is removed from one side.

i bought a cheap one from advance and it seems to work fine. i searched for days to see if anyone offers a police box reman other than firm feel and steer n gear, with no luck. i didnt want to wait the 4-6 weeks both of them told me. in my car, big block duster, either the engine or the k frame...

the last puller i bought was just a cheap one from napa, it actually had instructions right on the package, lol. said to not use an impact gun and to tighten the puller and strike the bolt with a large hammer to free the arm. i used it quite a few times, the bolt is so damn hard it still...

whacking the bolt on the puller definitely does the trick, just watch how much you crank on it before you whack it. i liek the idea of leaving the nut on but loose. if you have a real good load on the puller when you whack it, it will fly off like a rocket.

the poly is hard as sh#t i used the energy spool motor mount inserts and the trans mount. not epa aproved but a certain tool with a flame makes the rubber bushing removal a piece of cake.

go with the flaming river coupler if you arent worried about show points for a 100% correct resto. its a much better piece.

rockauto lists some for it, i dont have an original big block car so i dont have to worry about numbers and stuff but i went from a slant to a big block and kept my ps. the slant hose wasnt going to work so i figured id have to have one made, in the meantime i cut the steel tube up and...

are you running those poly strut rod bushings? if so, i tried them and i think they suck. you picked a lot of components that will each make the ride stiffer im surprised it isnt what you expected. im using 1" torsion bars, the hellwig 1 1/4 tube sway bar, boxed lower control arms, moog offset...

maybe you will get what you want from that shop, that would be cool, but ive used espo many times, there springs hold up great. ive had a set in my dart 10 years now and they dont look like they ever sagged. my buddy just put a set of mopar hd springs in his b body and in a matter of weeks it...

that snap on puller is the best but there are 2 jaw pullers that are much cheaper that will work. 20 bucks or so. if you have the press on pulley a lot of them you can just thread a bolt with a nut and washer into the shaft as far in as possible, and use the nut and washer to press the pulley...

i remember the 318 was squeeling or something like that

how come yo uhave no motor in it, didnt you go through the motor a while back?

id take those back and get a set that are flat on top. those big humps will interfere with some rims. i jsut got a set of moogs and they are flat on top.