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Early A's with TTI headers are a challenge. None of the factory starters will work including the 90's and magnum starters. The later model starters will fit with Doug's headers. The McRob starter has the best record for reliability with the TTIs but it is a little expensive up front. The good...

Mine is a non- Formula S car with the commando engine and 4 speed with 8 3/4 rear end. It came with a 150 mph speedo as part of the commando engine option but also came with a performance indicator. From all things I have read, all S cars should have come with a tach.

I did see a recent thread that talked about port matching the stock manifolds and grinding down some of the high spots. They had some dyno tests that showed that they performed as well as the late model manifolds mentioned in here. Disclaimer - I haven't done this. I run Doug's headers...

Rock auto carries early A headliners. Not sure about the color. Mine was black that I ordered but it was cheap and matched the factory pattern.

Doug's headers work with power steering on early A Cars

Oddly enough my 66 wasn't drilled for a sway bar. Possibly not the original? Either way, it has a sway bar now

I am not usung dtock valve covers. They are the MP cast aluminum magnum covers.

So the difference I am seeing in my setup versus the ones that are being posted is the MP magnum valve covers are wider (and possibly taller?) than the LA valve covers. The brake booster setup I have is like the one that Moparlee posted. I am thinking my options are to either scrap the power...

Bueller?

Port brakes is something I decided I want on my car. I have driven one with manual brakes for a number of years and now prefer power brakes. I also have the bracket and linkages. They just are not positioning the booster high enough to clear the valve covers. I am assuming it is due to the...

Is anyone running a 360 in an early A with the 8" power brake booster? If so, can you post a picture of it an the clearance between the booster and the valve cover? I was mocking might up recently and it looks like I need to modify the bracket to move it up 2" to clear the valve cover. Even...

Try brewers for this. You can also send the shifter to hurst for rebuild as well but be sure you have a hurst shifter. Some were inland shifters.

Tribute, There is a lot of reproduction parts for the 66 Barracuda. What there is not is a single source for all the items. There is some parts easier to find than others. There is also a couple of web sites that are dedicated to the early a abody cars that have links to various suppliers...

Talk to Dick at FirmFeel... I bought the addco sway bar thinking it was a great price. After 2 days of trying to modify the way it mounted (it sucks...) I called FirmFeel and bought thiers. It mounts very nice and is worth the cost difference in the frustration it will save you.

I would give IN-Line Tube a call. They have fittings for most anything.

It looks great (Except for the steering wheel being on the wrong side :) ) So how does it cool? Do you have the same R-12 restrictions as the US and using R-134?

I am installing the subframe connectors from US car tool. This might reduce the foorpan flexing some. I guess I will add a second plate to the floor on the inside as well. My barracuda had factory buckets but the floor was a single layer floorpan.

I have found that the floor pan around the bolt holes for the driver's seat is cracked due to the flexing of the seat. I am going to re-weld the crack but have been scratching my head on how to re-enforce the floor to prevent future cracking. I have thought that if I put down another plate...

It isn't a 66 pedal..