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If its been parked for 6 years I wouldn't drive it up my driveway without a brake job. Check the lines very closely to, both hard and rubber as they are probably full of gunk from the old fluid.

It looks like that is a sliding caliper so if you hooked up the hard line for the brakes then everytime you apply the brakes you will be flexing the steel line when the caliper moves. Not a lot but how many flexes can the line take before it breaks? Might want to look into short flex lines. Just...

If thats what was on your car originally then it was originally a drum brake car. The proportioning valve is much larger and is made to reduce the pressure to the rear brakes by about 55% compared to the front disks which take a very high pressure to operate. MOPAR used holdoff valves on both...

Its not a proportioning valve. It has the holdoff feature for the rear brakes. This allows the front to begin to take hold before the rear and lessens the tendency to lock the rear brakes. It will work on either drum or disk without a problem. Larry

Since all it does is route the fluid and turn on a failure lamp if the pressure on one side drops the new one should work. Only problem I have seen is that the replacements use the larger fittings on the master cylinder lines so you may have to get some reducers at the local auto parts store...

Thats why they call them power brakes.... There are 2 holes in the brake pedal arm. Make sur eyou are using the right one so the pushrod goes in straight. Larry

If you have the swaybar on the 64 then keep your LCAs (good time to replace the bushings though). Use the 73/74 spindles, UCA, and all the brake parts. Reverse the calipers to the rear (swap spindles) so that you don't have them hitting the swaybar. Since the 64 was a single MC all drum system...

The front "post" is not an electrical connection. Its the end of the plunger that moves to turn the light on and off. Way back in the day, MOPAR shop mechanics had a special tool to lock the plunger in place while bleeding the brakes. I used to have one but only God knows where it is now. The...

MC will work as long as it will bolt up to the firewall and has the correct cup for the brake pedal rod. Make sure you put the grommet on the rod so it doesn't come out (Safety). The Prop vale is iffy. They are normally set up according to vehicle weight and weight ratio front to rear so you may...

The master cylinder in the pic is for DRUM brakes. You need one for disc. The disc MC has one small (forrear brakes) and one large (for front disc) resivior. Not only does the drum MC not have adequate fluid capacity for the front disc, there is a check valve in the port where the line connects...

Any 73 and up MOPAR with disc brakes will work. All are the same. Look for Volare or Aspen.

If you bleed it enough it will probably all come out. Sometimes one half of the caliper is full of air and it takes a while, and a lot of fluid, to work the air thur the crossover tube to the bleeder. Larry

Its a special fitting that goes into the MC. 1/2 " threads but for a 3/16 line. Probably get one at a well stocked NAPA or try inlinetube.com they carry a bunch of different ones. Larry

I have on a couple of occassions had to use a die grinder and cut the piston from around the rod. After many years of crud building up there, plus brake fluid possibly leaking onto the collar and swelling it they are a real pain in the butt. Magnum HP and Year one both have the collars. Larry

The two bolts come out and you can remove the rod. May take some doing since it hs a rubber collar on it to keep it from popping out. Once out, chuck the plate with the 2 bolts and go to www.magnumhp.com or Year one to get the boot and a new collar. The new master cylinders don't need the plate...

It does put it up higher than the manual brake master cylinder but it should clear everything. The standard booster doameteris about 9 inches. What is the diameter of the booster? Looks rather large.

How much is "slightly narrower"? Those mounts will spread, or maybe someone spread it trying to get at the clevis pin. Loosen the bolts that hold the mount to the firewall and bolt it all together then tighten it up. Larry

The light only comes on when it gets grounded under normal conditions. It works on both the prop valve and the emergency brake. Unground the wire you sniped and look for the switch connected to the emergency brake setup under the dash. Either its bad or out of adjustment. Larry

I have DOT 5 in everything I own and haven't had any problems. The Warning light could have been because the Prop valve wasn't centered after bleeding. There is a procedure to center it in the FSM. As for air, naturally DOT5 is more prone to trap air so no shaking of the can, etc, before using...

Yeah, I'm in the same pickle! Found the one for the booster but not the one that goes on the shaft thru the firewall. Talked to a lot of the usual places with no luck. I'm thinking of taking a piece of inner tube and putting a split in it and put it over the mount just to keep the dust and...