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Thanks for the replys guys, i checked for vacuum leaks, ive got one at the brake booster so i'll have to get a new seal for that. i torqued and retorqued the base gasket down so i think i'm fine there but i will probably put a new thicker gasket on just in case. I already ran into a problem with...

Put a new engine in my truck ('84 ram) and now i'm down to tuning it. I can't seem to get a timing light to work on it. I tried 3 different timing lights but the flashes are very erratic on cyl 1. cyl 3 seems to be a little better (just tried for comparison) swapped cap, rotor and new plug wire...

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=20086 found it, but thanks guys

no, its aftermarket

Posting a picture of an aftermarket switch, dont know where its from or where to find a wiring diagram for it. If anyone could help me sort out what wires go where it would be appreciated.

anyone got one?

I think i'll try the baking soda and water thing this week, and see how it works. I've also got a short somewhere, the side marker lights come on with the key, and the blinkers don't work, hopefully should be an easy fix. I do have the correct non adhesive tape, man do i love that stuff!

so this doesnt appear to be a very fun topic....

Well, my wiring is going, but i'm not quite ready to rewire my car yet, looking for ways to clean the wires, bulkhead connector, fusebox. I've heard using vinegar and CocaCola work, but i want to hear your opinions, and if there are any good products out there. Thanks guys!

no its not dropping the battery 3 volts, i disconnected the negative cable and ran a voltmeter from the cable to the negative post and thats what it was pulling. just enough to keep the power button lit up and the memory.

alright, i think ive gotten a little farther on it. I retested the voltage at idle and this time its cranking out a solid 15 volts. after doing some more poking around i found that i am getting 12.5 volts to the fuses that are straight from the battery, but only 10.5 to the fuse that is...

also, i did the fuse pull thing first and nothing happened, then i realized the radio was connected straight to the battery

no, its not a drain. i put a voltmeter up to it and found a 3 volt drain. but then disconnected my hot wire to the radio and it went to zero. Its just the hot that keeps all my settings on the radio that pulls juice. nothing else. the thing is also, i can be driving over an hour, and when i shut...

somehow, my car does not want to keep a charged battery. in the past few months i have done the following. replaced and tightened alt belt replaced the alternater replaced the voltage regulator replaced the starter replaced the battery and terminals bypassed the ammeter if i charge the...

yeah i think the ampmeter is separate, as it did not peg like the other ones. I think what ill have left is the ampmeter and speedo. as long as the light and wiper switches and those work i should be fine for a while. I have an oil pressure gauge anyway

ok, what i did was disconnect the round connector in the back of the dash with the 9 connectors on it. now for another question. this will take all power from the two gauges and the dash lights correct? i should have no problems driving it like this? the center prong in the connector... is it...

i just need something to drive for a while, i recently purchased a rocky mtn dash so it will go in sometime when i buy the gauges. until then, i need something so i don't have to drive my uninsured pontiac P.O.S.

yeah im pretty sure its got to be the IVR. The dimming is nothing new, but it did seem more intense than normal. I do have a spare guage cluster so i will swap that out tomorrow. How safe is it to drive? right now it is my daily driver but i took out my motorcycle today to make sure not to screw...

I was on my way home today and i noticed my temp gauge and fuel gauge were both pegged all the way to the right. It was dark and the lights dimmed every time the blinker turned on. What is causing this?!?!?! I don't want to drive it until i get it figured out to avoid taking any risks. Thanks...

yup, i ordered mine too. sorry to jack your thread, but you asked for it. Adam, please delete this post and not me if you find it unfitting for the FABO page. just givin em' what they want

good deal, my avatar left for a while, but its back again and getting more comments. I do have a better picture of these girls :)

i think i might go ahead and see how that FBO system works out. only i might have to get a new cap and rotor. my whole car, engine and all are going to be red and black....and those are blue

blinker fluid... many people forget to check it. i would reccommend upgrading to the high definition fluid. Its only a few bucks extra but you'll be happy with it. http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=6 here's what i woud suggest

drivers side on the back of the engine bay looks like this

no, its not the neutral safty switch, its a device that won't allow the starter to engage until the seat belts are locked. thanks for the advice tho

hi, i need help on bypassing of removing the interlock system in my 74 slant six duster. it has been acting up lately and i will occasionally have to pop the hood and bypass the starter relay which can get annoying at times. any help would be great! thanks