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It's 4318039AD (-AC, -AD, -AE depending on when the can was made). Now called "rust penetrant", but still the same unlike-other-stuff formula.

I'm glad to have been wrong; let's hear it for not having to do another manifold R&R! Though I remain baffled at what was causing your noise; maybe what you meant by "boomy" is not what came to my mind with that word.

Casting numbers (found on parts) are not necessarily the same as part numbers (found in cattledogs). Yikes, I do not think I would have put the money and effort into ceramic-coating an old manifold; if I were bound and determined to have ceramic coating for whatever reason (…?), I would have...

"Boomy" sounds like you've got a big exhaust leak. Which gaskets (brand) did you use when assembling and installing the manifolds? Ceramic coating on the spring is not good. That's a bimetallic strip wound into a spiral. It wants to be naked metal in order to function properly. With the...

Depends on how you define rumble.

2¼" pipe from the exhaust manifold outlet to this muffler. It's in Walker's QuietFlow SS premium OE line, all stainless steel (which is nice for durability), made for the '01 Jeep Cherokee 4.0 so it's easily got the flow capacity for a healthy 225 and it's tuned to keep an inline-6's exhaust...

Want to eliminate drone? See here and here. Build your drone-killer in accord with the instructions, and run whatever muffler you want.

Exhaust is corrosive. Stainless is stainless. Chrome is not.

Gary Goers had those almost ready last time I asked him about them early this year; contact info here. My point is that Layson doesn't make Spitfire headers.

Ya cain't ever find what ya don't properly look fer!

Maybe too late for the original poster in this thread, but it's good to think very carefully and do a good bit of research before you decide to spend money at Layson's. See, for just a few examples, here, here, here, here, here, here, here, here, here, here, here, here, and here. Much of what...

The heat riser has nothing to do with the choke on a slant-6. You're thinking of the V8 setup. Chrysler P/N 4318039AC is the magic gookup to unstick heat risers. No idea what's in it, it's not just relabelled Liquid Wrench or anything similar. It works like nothing else. Tough to find...

Counterclockwise as viewed from the front, but you ought to fix it properly. Your climate has nothing to do with it.

Before you do that, you might want to consider getting a catalytic converter that's actually applicable to the vehicle you intend to install it on -- if the one you have doesn't have an O2S port, it's not the right one for your car.

Loud exhausts are fun for about a week, then they get old. Especially on an inline-six engine, a "turbo" or other "performance" muffler will set up a drone that'll cut right through you at 55 to 70 mph, right where you want to cruise on the highway. Forget it, if you value your sanity. Also...

Nope, put 'em on dry. See here and here for manifold installation tips.

It is very much worth your while to get the good gaskets for the manifolds-to-head and intake-to-exhaust junctions.

Well, there's yer lifetime warranty: it lasts the whole lifetime of the muffler. Muffler's rotted to ѕhit? I guess its lifetime is done! :roll:

You definitely want the manifold heat system working. It's a common but mistaken notion that blocking it off or removing it on a non-race vehicle is beneficial. You could get around its necessity to operate the automatic choke (no, the intake will not get hot enough to open it on its own without...

You probably don't need a gasket or seal ring at the headpipe-manifold junction. None was used from the factory except in the late '70s-early '80s with the self-contained heat riser valve. Those used a ring seal between the heat riser assembly and the exhaust manifold outlet, but none between...

Go get on www.rockauto.com and drill down as follows: Dodge --> 1989 --> D100 pickup --> 3.9L (239CID) V6 TBI --> Emissions -->EGR valve. You will find three listings. Ignore the last one. The first one is an excellent price ($26 and change) on a good brand (Kem) on warehouse clearance. The...

Me, I don't buy misspelled products.

Yup. I still see new stuff every time I go. Naw, those came from (far) away; Ray just received 'em for me. :-) True and correct!

How'd your field trip go? I wanted to get out there myself, but other stuff got in the way.

Pulled into the driveway in Seattle two Sunday afternoons ago, some 2400 miles after starting out in Michigan on the previous Thursday. Here are some pics from the road trip. These first two show original mileage (which is why I took them), and were taken in situ on Interstate 94. Or was it...

So far so good…the crossover passage is present on all original-equipment and most aftermarket intakes, though, not just on the iron 2bbl items. No, that's not a really accurate description of why the system's there. The intake manifold heat control valve ("heat riser") existed long...

Thanks, I'll check it out. Gathering = good idea! I have a series of SAE meetings to attend (and one of them to chair) from the 13th to the 16th but let's see about sometime after that.

Thanks. We love Seattle any/every time of year and try to spend as much time there as we can. Wish Daley's Drive-In on Eastlake hadn't gone away, tho.

Greetings from the northern tip of the lower peninsula of Michigan. The day after tomorrow, I'm hopping in my '73 Dart and heading to Seattle. I am optimistically planning on 3 long driving days to cover the ~2300 miles. Sooner than later, the car's going to want pipe(s) and a muffler...

G'day. They're the flared/tapered type of connection, no gasket required.