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They aren't "Mopar" but surely one of these would work. http://m.summitracing.com/search?keyword=clutch%20fan&toggleResults=display

Check out Hayden part # 2765 fan clutch. At just under 2 3/4 inches thick with fan, it is about as thin as I've found.

1968FormulaS340 is right. Not the radiator. If it cools at speed, it's doing just fine. At idle, you just aren't getting enough air passing through the radiator. I just went through the same thing only just the opposite. Mine got hotter and hotter at speed but did fine at an idle. Had to replace...

I'm thinking that back in 66, not so many parts were made of plastic or fiber. I know for certain that the one I have is factory original but it had factory air also so maybe that made a difference. My friends 68 Dart had a /6 with the outlet/inlet same as mine...passenger side. Dennis.

If you are feeling creative, look here. Thinking about it. Done fiberglass before and not hard to work with. Just messy. Dennis http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=249189

No offense taken to anyone here. I came asking for advise and I take it however it comes. I haven't liked that shroud since day one but it was "convenient". After I get with Gary, and hopefully get a new radiator, I'll build a new shroud that fits properly. I've got this thing tuned to run...

Not uncommon on /6. That's how the ones I have seen are and the shroud is the one that came on the slant, I just relocated it since the V8 fan was in another place. I ran it without the shroud when we first dropped the engine in with the same results I have now. That is why I decided to try...

Well, it looks like the consensus is "too small radiator" from what we/I know and the info I have been able to provide. One more thing. Would it have an effect since the inlet and outlet are on the passenger side of the radiator? I wouldn't think so because all the coolant flows into a common...

Look at my post. I did the same thing and have been nursing it along for close to 2,000 miles. Dennis http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=277922

The one that comes out on the passenger side is a 1970+ if I am not mistaken. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. Look at pics on Rockauto. Dennis

The spring runs to within 2" of each end of the hose. I built this 318 for this swap. It was tanked and new parts installed along with the heads just prior to dropping it in. The /6 is alive and well. I gave it to a friend and he is running it in his 68 Dart. Dennis

Thank you all for the ideas and opinions. I really appreciate them. It looks like most here feel the same as I do...the radiator is too small. I was just hoping that since my build was not radical that maybe I could get by with it. It just didn't seem like it should change it that much but it...

First the specs. I have a 66 Valiant that was /6 but now has a 318 with automatic trans. The engine has a very mild cam and a performer intake with eddy 4 barrel that runs a little on the rich side. Timing is 16 initial and 35 total. I have about 1500 miles on the engine and it has done this...

I think the piece you are talking about is soldered on. Needs to be done by a radiator shop unless you are good with large part soldering which requires a torch. I think this is common on early Mopars. We just pulled the radiator out of a friends 66 Dodge and the side panels all but fell...

Maybe I'm being over simplistic here but if you didn't have a problem before you put the new radiator in, but do now, then it seems to follow that the new radiator isn't functioning as advertised. Possibly the larger tubes are not slowing the coolant down enough to get the temps down...

The old radiators without a puke tank had a one way cap on them. They puked out coolant and it was over. Sealed until next time. The later systems with puke tank have a two way cap so that as the system cools down, it creates a vacuum and draws the coolant in the tank back into the radiator...

69 didn't have one and if you add one, you need to change your style of radiator cap for it to work properly. Dennis

This is neat. I never played with fiberglass. Gives me some ideas for other parts. Is there any reason to use the glass shards over the mats or just a personal choice? Thanks. dennis

Will it be something like this? http://www.cadvision.com/blanchas/54pontiac/FanShroud.html

First off, this is just my opinion. I don't think you will see any power difference between a clutch fan and regular fan. You might see the difference in small horsepower gains and tenths of seconds faster if you were racing the car but only then. You might also look at Summit for a fan and...

When a clutch fan fails/goes bad/quits working, does it no longer spin at all or does it lock up completely and spin all the time or can do either one? It's the type with the spring in the middle. Thanks. Dennis

Know I'm a little late but I just saw this thread. I put a copy of the wiring diagram at this link. Hope it might help. I have a manual on a 66 Valiant of course! Good luck. http://s968.photobucket.com/albums/ae170/obe1kanoby/Air%20Wiring/?action=view&current=ACWiring.png