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in my opinion the Headman version is nicer that the Hooker. a little more tire clearance and was easier to tuck the exhaust up on my car. I was running a RB with Indy heads and bought the set for raised ports. Ran a pretty short tire up to have as much clearance as I could.

I had magnum manifolds on my 66 Valiant before I went back to the slant. I shimmed the motor mounts about a 1/4" and it was Tight! I ended up using a u joint style coupler on the gearbox to gain some clearance.

Thank you, did you put the sealant on the header side or engine side or both ? Thank you for your reply. I just put it on the header, worked for me.

I had a set of Pro Parts headers that would leak no matter what gasket was used. cleaned them up and after listening to my circle track buddy. put some ultra grey on them and let it set up a while before bolting them on ( with gaskets I'm to stubborn to try it without ). never leaked again.

damn, I dont think I have any pictures of the mess I had ( would have never worked with a Z bar ). I used a flowmaster scavenger Y that I chopped a bunch off of.

that is how all of the V bands I have used have been. just that little recess to lock the pipe in. I agree a little deeper cut would be nice and make mocking up a little easier some times.

had both, noticed a pick up in et and lower engine temps when I ran the fender wells. don't remember any issues rubbing tires with the pro parts. were a little more difficult to seal up but not bad. my pro parts were coated inside and out and still caused the engine to run 15-20 degrees hotter...

never had an issue with the dragging or hot floor and that was on an RB with raised port Indy heads. the Hedman Hustler's are nicer than the 5205's.

I can tell ya when I dumped my ProParts and went back to fender well headers my car picked up over a tenth and ran cooler. the Proparts were ceramic coated inside and out in a futile attempt to keep the temps down. I hated the tire rubbing but, if I ever build another big block A body it would...

I ran 90's on mine with the wires under the headers run toward the front. much easier to keep the boots off the headers that way.

I have had the Hooker, ProParts & Hedman fender well headers on my dart. preferred the Hedman. the tubes looked cleaner and if I remember correctly they were closer to equal length. the collector is also higher up and gave me better ground clearance. the car is currently in pieces awaiting time...

tires rub, every fenderwell header I have had rubs. tried a bunch. these were the least. its not a tall tire. 165/80r15's? cant remember. car was pretty level , slightly nose down. just hadn't settled down yet. just changed the oil before the picture was taken. think if I ever get around to...

headman's to 3.5" magnaflow round mufflers and a 45 kicking them out. I also notched ( heavily ) the crossmember between my rocker & frame connector.

I agree the wrap works, not convinced on the coating. also second the sealing the wrap after installing it.

yes, the bolts go into the coolant passages. in the past I have used Teflon tape with good results on the header bolts.

I like the brush on stuff sold by eastwood. make sure you "cure" them I usually put them on my wood burner in the garage and warm them up to cure the paint. some guys use the oven ( don't let your wife find out ) and make sure the windows are open. have done quite a few sets this way. they...

trail, I believe you are correct on powder coat. usually they are ceramic coated like a header. I have had great luck with the eastwood stuff. usually bake them to cure the coating.

Magnum is right, they will Not fit an A body. Pretty sure they hit the gear box.

huh, I have the ram/Dakota magnum manifolds on my 66 valiant. I thought they were a bolt in deal on the later A bodies. I had to grind on mine a little and shim the drivers mount to get them to fit. their goes my plan of using them on the duster.

pretty sure krazykuda is right. you will need the 64-66 manifolds. some have used the later Magnum manifolds with success. I have the magnum manifolds on my 66 with a little grinding on the manifold & a 1/4 shim under the drivers mount they fit.

yep, stuff is Great works Way better than ceramic coating for heat in my opinion. definitely want to paint them first, then soak and rap them. they even have a silicone spray to use on the wrap.

I think rumble is saying he would coat the stainless. best of both worlds. corrosion resistance and a thermal barrier

mine did with a little work on 1 tube ( hit the steering ) with Indy heads. and with the way the tube was on mine it would have hit either way. i think someone was having a bad day when they made that tube....

i am partial to the fenderwell headers myself, but if i did under chassis ones they would be TTI.