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I been going to the same guy for about 30 years now, very happy with his work, he is in inverness

yupp somebody else asked that must take a hemi flywheel or flexplate

30 mins north of Detroit

whole engine dressed up as a 68 with the good 340 manifolds and air cleaner on facebook no price yet....seem to be fishing not sure where its located

71 steel crank 340 has 8 bolt crank flange????

well glad I read this thread before you got to far into it, 273 drivers side manifold on the drivers side will not fit if you have later model heads with the air holes or the pads for the air holes, grinding the head will not work the metal is very thin, same with grinding the manifold, 340...

my gawd it is a cylinder head...a place where lots of heat is commonplace .....heat the cylinder head around the broken spark plug and git on with it...Uhhgggg

Thamk You for saying valve adjustment, so many threads with the same symptoms and everybody always goes for the carburetor and the distributor and everything but the first place that should be checked Thank You!!!!!!!!!

the carb is a bit on the large side , get the timing up will help a bunch

Glad to see he is getting some good advice to chase down the gremlins rather that quit/giveup...

try not hitting it so hard:glasses7:

they are 1 1/4" on the heads and the front passenger side of the block(5) the other( 9) are 1 5/8" napa had the best price in my town and that is rare carquest wanted 4 and change for the big ones and almost 3# a piece for the little ones

you check the preload on the lifters yet????? you mentioned it backfired thru the exhaust I think? just check them it wil make the carb act like a bananna

for checking the airgap in the dizzy( distributor) I still say say recheck the lifter preload......

just pull the valve covers and check the valve adjustment...then go back to the other problems....sure sounds like one or two of them is too tight...make sure you have an msd compatible coil, good grounds for the box and proper airgap in the dizzy, you need plug wires compatible with msd box...

paper thin coat of rtv

we put one of them summit cams in our pure stock....that thing was flat out Nasty!!!! as in awesome!!!!! it pulled vacume to pass tech so we was happy and it had gobbs of off the corner torque :)

cam break in is crucial, on my triple valve spring engines we pull the third valve spring for break in. before fireup the carb is primed, the timing light is hooked up and ready to go and a box fan and a garden hose in front of the radiator...once fired set the carb for 2000 rpms and set the...

what he said :)

yepp it's a constant load and the load increases with rpm's...I run 87 octane with ethanol so looking for anything that makes more low end torque so I can add pitch to the variable pitch carbon fiber prop...I'll just have to try it and see what it does at the tachometer

so on a well tuned HEAVY TRUCK engine they are beneficial??? or in my case a DIRECT DRIVE airboat??? I mea'n I'm gonna have to give it a whirl to see for sure...on an airboat with DIRECT DRIVE the gains are seen easily so I guess its time to find out...?????

On a Heavy truck or motorhome the engine has more work to do as with a direct drive airboat, the propeller is a constant load that increases with engine rpm, the egr in place allows for more timing and at low rpm there is a chance of preignition when the engine has been run hard, when it is time...

actually low end performance can be gained..I plan to add one on my direct drive airboat...on a heavy truck or camper the egr valve is one of the most important parts of the engine....Just Sayin

I wouldn't sell a stock block needing machining for less than that...then again I'm not offering any up for sale either..if yur goin racing ya gotta ponyup the $$$$

nah, no way...look over the intake manifold real carefully to determine it isn't cracked...for it to fill all cylinders with water is crazy....other than they cut every seat too deep..I'm scratchin my head on this one...did they deck the block? surface the heads? mill the intake to match?

also check the carb gasket, if it is an open plenum intake and has a gasket for direct throttle bores you will have to cut that part out

try a diffrent radiator cap it may be leaking steam on the roadrunner causing it to beep

needs more purple

stic tite radiator repair from speedway motors probably pull the exhaust manifold for some clearance to work on the block right in the car

yup pretty much what they said if it leaks out only when the engine is running clean that area and be sure its not coming out the timing cover