Bottom of lifter worn thru

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witteman

Test & Tuner
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Just pulled my hydraulic flat lifters on one side and one of them is worn on the bottom with a small hole. Any ideas on what happened here. Can I just change one? The cam looks fine some very fine blueing like it got hot a little. I really can't afford to change both at this time.
 
I hate to say it, but you don't have a choice! Cam/lifter break-in is critical. No matter how good a cam lobe looks after wiping a lifter, the same will happen to a new lifter and the cam lobe will wear even more.
 
67Dart273 said:
I'm tellin ya...........that cam is done. If you "can't afford" it you either park it, or you find someone who has a good used cam and "chance" it. If someone (hopefully locally) has a usable cam and can MARK THE POSITION of each lifter, and put them in your engine in that specific location, you have "some chance." Even then, there's a chance that the two engines have slightly different machine tolerances, IE the lifter bores are misaligned from one engine to the other.
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EDIT...........looks like we all posted same time, LOL
 
I'd like to know what lifter it was. I'm looking for a pattern . I had one lifter in my 360 go bad . The bottom was carved out by the cam lobe all the others looked beautiful with a nice swirl pattern on the bottom. I suspect the one that was destroyed was starved for oil.
 
Thanks Guys
I guess I am in denial. Changing one is a bad idea. I knew the guy at comp cam was not on the up and up. he's like change the one lifter. Looks like I will be staying home For a couple of weekends.
 
Comp Cam 822-16, just like u said carved out at the bottom with a small hole but not destroyed as in shape it came right out no problem.
 
Where you reckon all the metal is?



:-\"
 
some recent posts on moparts.org about the same crap. all of them even used cam lube / proper breakin / zddp addatives etc.

apparently some of the cams and lifters being sold are not hardened like they should be :/

lifters are getting pit holes on them where they ride on the cam shaft. spinning ok like they should, worn evenly, but full of pit holes

here's the thread:

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=7785657&an=0&page=4#Post7785657
 
Just been thru this same thing
 

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I've noticed in several fairly recent threads where members post their cam break in videos that they are letting the engine run at an RPM that's way too low to be acceptable. Cam break in is supposed to be at 2500 and UP varying between that and around 4000-4500 for the first 20 minutes or so of engine run time. Yet, for some odd reason, I've seen videos of NEW engines idling and running below 2000 RPM. People just don't get the importance of it. I think there's more operator error involved than anything. I remember when all the ZDDP was being reduced the first time around. Lunati had a rash of claims for bad camshafts and lifters. While they made good on most of them, they also found out that they were not at fault. No matter how hard you tell people how important proper cam break in is, they just will not listen.
 
WOW! I know there's metal in the engine, there goes my summer! Time to start rebuilding. Once again you guys are the greatest thanks for all the posts.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I've noticed in several fairly recent threads where members post their cam break in videos that they are letting the engine run at an RPM that's way too low to be acceptable. Cam break in is supposed to be at 2500 and UP varying between that and around 4000-4500 for the first 20 minutes or so of engine run time. Yet, for some odd reason, I've seen videos of NEW engines idling and running below 2000 RPM. People just don't get the importance of it. I think there's more operator error involved than anything. I remember when all the ZDDP was being reduced the first time around. Lunati had a rash of claims for bad camshafts and lifters. While they made good on most of them, they also found out that they were not at fault. No matter how hard you tell people how important proper cam break in is, they just will not listen.
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I was noticing the same. People just standing around an engine idling while the cam is supposed to be getting broken in. I kept my RPM moving all through break-in like my machinist and you both told me. "don't let it drop below 2500".


I bought Summit lifters and cam and lubed em all up and have about 3k miles on my motor and haven't had any problems with 'em at all. I also used Comp break in additive for break in,changed it and added more camp additive then ran it 1,000 miles about and changed it again and added more additive. As per being advised, your engine needs lots of ZDDP and most oils nowadays have a horrendous additive package for even new motors.
 
cam break in is crucial, on my triple valve spring engines we pull the third valve spring for break in. before fireup the carb is primed, the timing light is hooked up and ready to go and a box fan and a garden hose in front of the radiator...once fired set the carb for 2000 rpms and set the timing quickly and varie the rpms adding rpms here and there by hand and letting it slowly go back to 2000 the idea is for the lifters to spin in the lifter bores the whole time once the cam is broke in they will spin even at low rpms on a new engine I will run a brake hone thru the lifter bores but even a piece of emery cloth to deburr will be helpful
 
....and Mike, I gotta say it. You did a damn good job on your motor too. All by yourself. You mightta had to chase some oil leaks, but you know what it takes NOW to get it leak free the first time. You oughtta be proud of yourself. I am.
 
we put one of them summit cams in our pure stock....that thing was flat out Nasty!!!! as in awesome!!!!! it pulled vacume to pass tech so we was happy and it had gobbs of off the corner torque :)
DarTT said:
I was noticing the same. People just standing around an engine idling while the cam is supposed to be getting broken in. I kept my RPM moving all through break-in like my machinist and you both told me. "don't let it drop below 2500".


I bought Summit lifters and cam and lubed em all up and have about 3k miles on my motor and haven't had any problems with 'em at all. I also used Comp break in additive for break in,changed it and added more camp additive then ran it 1,000 miles about and changed it again and added more additive. As per being advised, your engine needs lots of ZDDP and most oils nowadays have a horrendous additive package for even new motors.
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RustyRatRod said:
....and Mike, I gotta say it. You did a damn good job on your motor too. All by yourself. You mightta had to chase some oil leaks, but you know what it takes NOW to get it leak free the first time. You oughtta be proud of yourself. I am.
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I am pretty proud of myself. :cheers:. You helped big time though. If I didn't muck up what I did, I never woulda learned the proper way. I also learned alot about taking the whole shebang apart.

waggin said:
we put one of them summit cams in our pure stock....that thing was flat out Nasty!!!! as in awesome!!!!! it pulled vacume to pass tech so we was happy and it had gobbs of off the corner torque :)
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Oh yeah, I got the K6901 and I am beyond pleased with how wicked sounding and fun it came out. I didn't expect what I got in a long shot.
 
DarTT said:
Oh yeah, I got the K6901 and I am beyond pleased with how wicked sounding and fun it came out. I didn't expect what I got in a long shot.
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Got a video of it running? Judging from the specs...doesn't seem to be a very exciting grind... 218/228 @ .050, .441 in/ex on a 114* LSA???

I guess I'm from Missouri!...(Gotta show me)
 
65Val said:
Got a video of it running? Judging from the specs...doesn't seem to be a very exciting grind... 218/228 @ .050, .441 in/ex on a 114* LSA???

I guess I'm from Missouri!...(Gotta show me)
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I'll have to get video of it running. I began to experience "technical difficulties" last time I tried and it sounded like I was sitting in the center of a beehive:wack:
 
Make this whole thread a moot point. Run a roller cam next time.
 
That k6901 ,a awesome mild grind. That truck should run ,like a raped ape.As for the o.p,I would follow the sage advice given. Been there.
 
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