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I'm not diggin thru the attic for the book, -5% performance = - the headache of blown header gaskets, - the pain in the *** to replace starter motor, - the cost of mini starter to avoid that, - the steering linkage issues and all the other things, although I have headers on my duster and none of...

try 5% more performance from race headers over the 340 hp manifolds say's mullen & co.

I just heard this comment a few minutes ago still laughing " putting a chevy engine in a mopar is like glueing a ***** on a chicken "

My Hero :prayer:

just get some of them pullin truck headers and stick em straight thru the hood :banghead:

good addition to the thread!!!

definately soak in pb blaster for as long as you can, may have to heat the cylinder head around the stud keeping the heat way from the stud so it doesnt expand with the metal around it then quench the stud with the two nuts locked together with pb blaster to cool just the stud then remove.......

I like the way you think!!!!

ROFLMAO...i put something in my instructions refering to that Lol...you made me spew mt dew all over the monitor :cheers:

yea see instructions I posted high as you can and securely on jack stands,i did the best i could to help.........Wagg's

last I remember the both come in from the bottom. did you remove the starter? you may have to try from the top but pretty sure it comes in from the bottom

put drivers side on first

disconnect the battery,unhook the drivers side inner tie rod end and the pitman arm with car raised as high as you can and securely on jackstands, drain all fluid from the engine using the bottom front timing cover bolt on the drivers side,I believe that is the one.then turn the passenger side...

should be a few sets on here for sale....you cant go wrong with them although they dont have that tinnny header sound we seem to like they flow nicely. if you do end up with the headers that hang down do yourself a big favor and get a mini starter or you will hate yourself

Yepp, mee too but no sense bein mean about it...I personally would put the 340 manifolds if he wants flow, performance and no problems changing starter motors.....and no scraping when he's haulin the friends...they flow 5% less than a header says mullen and co.

my duster must be too high off the ground.....oh well i'm runnin it anyway

easy trigger,....... easy

true that.......

all about how you drive the car with those headers....they don't just reach down and smash themselves...mine been on for over four years and no bottoming

might as well start spraying the nuts and bolts with pb blaster and be prepared for the very front or the very rear stud to break off and need to be drilled and easy out'd....look over the manifold away from the cylinder head for signs of the famous slant six exhaust manifold crack...if it isn't...

not me......

I have some with no numbers also and have had them for over twenty years so it's not reproduction parts just because there is no numbers....just one of them Ma mopar thing's

you done fine gittin one side to work, i have never had a problem runnin without them and I beat the snot out of my cars(but they love it) you'll be fine....happy rice huntin!!!!

I have a brand new set stashed 55$ and the ride if ya want em

true duals......

The frame is wider. could possibly modify the headers, I think they hit on the shock tower but not sure.

hmmmmm, very intrigueing, wish you lived down the street I'd have a better look at it and an answer soon enough. I'd say take the motor mounts off and the bolts out of the trans mount, install the manifolds and move the engine trans around till everything fit then make all the mounts work with...

If you can post the part #s for them we can check reference for you and see what's goin on there.

I don't need pic's, I have the 340 manifolds the 318 for 1968 and the manifold for early a bodies to look at the outlet is way smaller on the non 340 manifolds and the inlets are smaller also. but being the motor mounts are at the front of the engine when you lower the trans it causes the...

pinion angle should be correct before lowering the trans mount to accomodate the 727, use tool of your choise to rework the trans tunnel and everything will line up. you want an equal amount of angle at the trans as you do with the pinion angle of the rearend. just my opinion though