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drain all of the engine oil out of it, pull the intermidiate shaft, put 3 quarts of diesel fuel into the crank case..using your oil pump primer spin the oil pump counter clockwise to give the engine oil pressure then quickly reverse the drill to send the debris from the screen out of it, do this...

why cant you back up the initial timing and bring in the advance curve later???? its a big block they don't like all that timing.... just sayin

Very good place to start, the basics!!! is it solid lifter or hydraulic cam? if hydraulic loossening them up will help low end also you may need to shim the rocker arm shafts if you dont have adjustable rockers

if it has a solid lifter cam .022 on intakes and .026 on exhaust valves will wake her up......Just sayin :)

To test the flash point of the convertor, put car in first, hold brake firmly and watch where the tachometer goes when you gas it.

you can kill a cylinder at a time until ya isolate which one is causing the miss and pull that valve cover and make sure a pushrod didn't try to get a rocker arm pregnant,doesnt sound logical to look for electrical issues if all ya did was mechanical stuff....double check the firing order...

if it a hydraulic cam then there is no problem with the valves adjustment, if it is a solid lifter cam then we have a problem

They are right on about checking the valve clearance, In all actuality the length of the pusrods may need to be checked (pushrods too long) holding the valves open and for it to be popping back..yea maybe ya crossed #5and #7....just sayin...

there is supposed to be a metal ground strap that goes from the main fuel line on the car and crosses over the rubber line to the line that is part of the sending unit.you can use a hose clamp to attach a piece of wire or metal to the fuel line and clamp it then cross over the rubber piece and...

one more question...do you have a big block transmission in the car?big and small block are diffrent

Hey! nice lil' demon,i guess your roof is still intact? Lol. nice project

I'M sixteen...........with 25 years of experience Lol.welcome to F.A.B.O. right click on pic,go to attributes,go to "stretch,skew" downsize to 80% and then save to,add a name for the shrunk pic's and then you can post them on here by "go advanced"then manage attachments, then Browse,then double...

boxer,awsome job on those.Nice work!!!

Very nice,the plates to the cowl are well thought out and tie it all together,in the big picture the answer is that support is definately needed if removing the inner fenderwells.and to add to that if(big if)you get into an accident the braces,or the stock inner fender supports are also good to...

all those spot welds have held together for 40 some years and not had a problem until the inner fenders were removed,what would be so bad about plating a spot on the fire wall cowl area and adding a tubular support from there to the shock towers and down to the frame,you can take a car that runs...

well I beg to differ,the inner fenderwells with all of their bends and the way they are made are inherently strong and light weight,if you remove them,and drive your car around....every time that it flexes it will get weaker....and weaker......and weaker.....till it falls on the ground.I never...

I'm not trying to but in or anything but I had fenderwell headers and a tilt front clip on my dart gt convertable,the car was really rusty in the floors and the fenderwells were pretty rusted out also,I never really noticed how weak the car had become till a friend of mine was backing it out of...

I'm missing something.........what is this post about?and fenderwell headers definately rock! I have some for my "WAGGIN TWO" "pro street project that i saved from my dart gt convertable from years back.so any way what is the gr8 idea?