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I used the Afro brand. Zero wear, zero problems

What a blast from the past! I will say that over 10yrs later they are still working great!

Google it. Tons of pics

Loosen the two screws with the square nuts all way till barely on. Outer housing slides into that ring portion. The square nuts slide into the square holes. They will drift into those square holes as you tighten the screws Gotta hold screws with your fingers to hold them all way down. You will...

It will limit lower control arm deflection. It will make the suspension do its part more then the parts flexing. Will it make a seat of the pants noticeable difference? Prob not but combined with stiffer tortion bars, sway bars, etc it's a good part to add with other upgrades

I threw mine in a vise, then welded the stiffening plates onto the bottom. Us car tool sells them I think

I have approx 5"

You won't find a guy that stands behind his product more then Denny! Proud to purchase from him and support his dream! He's like us, loves the hobby! Always looking to make his rides better. He just has more knowledge, talent and ambition then some. He's living the dream and just thankful he's...

Hahaha I know how that feels! EVen with my upgraded stock suspension if it started getting out of shape even the slightest bit it was a white knuckle experience. Now I can actually stay in the throttle and drive out of it.

Hey buddy! It's been over a year since we spoke last! I have put a couple thousand miles on the car since the install. All of which where hard tire melting miles. The front suspension has held up awesome! I still am amazed at home much better the car feels every time I drive it. The added caster...

I got my parts from summit

I agree with you!

My springs are very stiff! If you want corner carving then they are great but if your wanting a drag race set up then much softer would be better. I'm going to be going to 350 pound springs this season

Ok I used a master cylinder spec'd for a late 80's dodge Dakota. 15/16" bore I believe. I then installed an adjustable proportioning valve in the rear brake line. I did strip the underside of my car by hand, on my back with a wire wheel,putty knife and enough beer to kill a race horse lol.

It's prob making 425 ish

Here is my car on the street. You can hear me peddle three times before it hooks

Here is your problem #1!!!! Narrow tire with short side wall and hard rubber compound. A nitto 555r would be a far better tire but with any real hp that width is gonna be tough to hook on the street! My car is running mid 11's and has a 325/55/15 they are 13" wide and 28" tall. If I nail it...

What is wheel and tiresize? Sticky rubber is number 1 improvement

Need to check condition of strut rod bushings. They dictate lower control arm position which is half of the caster equation

I would put connectors on a shopping cart! It can ONLY make your car better

Done right it's an easy 40hr job to relocate springs and mini tub

I have done 4 cars now and I wouldn't do another for less then $1500 labor

I'm so glad this thread ended up being such a big hit!

It's hard to put into words isn't it! Pretty rad to hop in your 40+ year old car and drive with your arm on the window sill and one finger on the wheel.

if its to that extreme then how bout a aluminum tube steering column? or ditch the torsion bar suspension all together. go with a coil over rack set up. cut out the heavy transmission and torsion bar cross member and fab a chromoly one. fiberglass or sheet metal dash. the list goes on.

I think that if weight savings is your goal there are far better ways that cost allot less. power to manual steering is a huge weight savings. fiberglass hood. fiberglass front bumper with aluminum brackets. light weight wheel and tire package up front. disc brake swap with...

Another advantage of the HDK is that the engine mounts leave a ton of room around oil pump on a big block. I am building a stroker now with external oiling and no mods need to be made.

nice. i got my fender stretcher from harbor freight. they were between the buckets of steam and the hole shrinker's.

something to think about...... bigger tires that fill up the wheel wells give the look of it being lower but actually doesn't drop it. my car is lowered quite a bit but i also have 28" tires in the rear and 26.5" up front.

weld the perches on last. get it all done. then bolt up the rear and check side to side with tires on and even it up. then rotate the rear to get the correct pinion angle for your rear suspension set up. tack it in place then remove it and weld them up. Any other way is half assing it.