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Not sure why they made it that way. But, the bottom also just sits on the metal. The rest of it goes around the metal... I think maybe the lock strip helps it grab the flange tighter? Or maybe putting the strip in the bottom distorted the seal more than they wanted for it to lay right under...

Hi Jeff, Got your PM... Do not cut the flap! The flap closes the bottom by itself. The lock strip does not go all the way around.

I believe DMT makes all of there own flat gaskets. Used them for everything on mine and all worked great. But I don't know if they make any of the formed gaskets. I got Precision from another vendor and it was a good fit.

Normally, the adjustment is the slot at one end. I think I have a pair I'd sell. PM me if interested.

I got black store brand ones and painted them. originally did them in aluminum, but resprayed with Krylon stainless. I do have original frames in 15 and 16 inch if I ever get the right refills As far as I can tell 16 is actually correct originally and from what I saw Advance doesn't have a 15...

I can get them fairly easy 9 out of 10.... I took mine out a couple weeks ago. It was that tenth time out of ten. Drivers side popped right out. Passenger side was a total PITA.:BangHead: :mad: LOL

Been a few years, but I got a Precision brand gasket from Dante's. I think the gasket was under $100 and the lock strip was another $10

Yes. No.... I think all the front glass gaskets use a lock strip which is a round cord. The bottom edge just zips closed in center up to several inches from the corner and the lock strip goes the rest of the way. If it's that style gasket, it will not work without it. My back gasket also...

Some great looking cars on here with painted bumpers. I wanted stock look or might have gone that way. Mine were rusted to a point I wouldn't have used them as rechrome cores. I was lucky (and patient)and got great deals on both bumpers in amazing condition from other members here.

If I Recall Correctly My CRS kicks in more frequent lately.. If you don't know what that is- Cant Remember ****. LOL

I definitly left mine in. IIRC... I think I saturated them with motor oil.

73 Duster was one year only door glass. Guessing Dart Sport used same Up to 72 one style. And over 74 is another.

I think I mainly put it around the studs to fill the holes from outside when I pushed the bezel through. I got the new gaskets (thick black around the entire opening) from DMT.

I did cut new washers from some closed cell craft foam. But didn't see that sealing well, so added the butyl.

I used butyl 'rope' caulk. AKA 'windoweld'

I did patchwork all over my car with pieces of flat metal I bent to shape. With one exception.... Just too involved to make a good floorpan from scratch. Got mine from Yearone. Worth every penny.:thumbsup:

You asked about using 75's in a 73. I saw nothing here to say you couldn't use them...

I know the firewall changed quite a bit for diff years and AC or not.. I think you will be OK, but I'd probably get some good pics for comparison before cutting. Only structural change I know from 73 to 75 was the brace from the flange between firewall and cowl to the fenders. The back flange...

I don't think there is any difference other than maybe where some stuff was mounted. So may have some holes in the wrong place. From building my 75 I can tell you some places just don't list ANYTHING after 74. Even though the parts they are selling fit 75 and 76.

Comet

We could help you better if you put up some pics of what you are actually working with. You mentioned 72 parts. But it sounds like you have a 73 and a 74+.

Pull window and wire brush everything really good to clean and see what you have. Make repairs. Then do vinyl. Put new clips on. Install glass and trim...

Be very careful with the edges of back glass. Safety glass will take a light hammer tap on the face, but a slight hit on the edge is all it takes to drop it in a pile. I had one stored for years and 'blew it up' when I went to clean it.

That’s the ones for fenders. Is that the right size? When I got mine at a swap meet they had 2 sizes, so I got several of each. One of them worked...

Probably same as Duster. There a piece that goes in the fender holes firs. Emblem then pushes in and it grabs the posts. There are similar ones that are sealed for trunk.

If the gasket has a gap for the strip, you must use one.

Doing the vinyl itself is not that difficult. I did mine on the Duster. I'm sure going down behind the rear glass adds a bit of a pain factor though. Did not have to deal with that on canopy top. But then you don't have the A-pillars to cover... Most of the factory trim was on with studs...

I just used a needle nose pliers in the holes

Scrape/peel the big stuff. If you actually need to clean it, a wire brush on drill or angle grinder will make quick work of it. If not going for originality, and the upper parts are OK, you can just get the tire well.

The bottom of the guide has two slotted holes. If I recall correctly...you loosen the nuts and move that in or out. I believe it acts like a se-saw. so to bring top in you push bottom out. Just be very careful not to bring it in too far an close the door hard. It does take a good deal of...