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I think he has everything listed on ebay. If not, call him or contact on here @jamesfillmore

possibly linkage on wrong? Was the drive piece off the motor?

Yesterday I was doing some cleanup in my garage. Had a back door glass from a Neon that I was tired of looking at. Put it in a trash bag and held it closed by the top. One light tap on he concrete and poof it went to a little pile in the bottom of the bag. :thumbsup:

For you guys storing them in an elevated position, I highly recommend some wrapping. I am assuming they are safety glass like Duster back glass. When it breaks, it goes into millions of little pieces. Yes, they are very tough. I have banged them around pretty good. Even a good tap with a...

Navigation sucks. Had to use google to find other shirts from them. This is the closest I found. Not finding any Valiants. No Dusters either. Moteefe

when I could find them in yards around here they were usually sun baked and crispy. Pretty much fell apart when touched.

3/4"OD, approx. 13/32ID and 1/4" thick. They seam to have a little bevel inside. Not sure if that is cut in there originally or worn in from use. I would check Mcmaster.

Yep, originally from near Quakertown.

What car/year is that? I thought all the mount plates were diamond shaped. Just noticed your almost local...I'm near York.

Call Keith and see if he is available to help pull the glass Saturday morning or Sunday. LOL

wonder if the thin part of shank on one of these would be long enough?

I had to re- do my front glass and cleaned up butyl mess off seal with lacquer thinner. But that might be risky on your paint. If needed there, I would try alcohol. Could you just back the screws out a little and cut a slot in trim to slide it on?

What adhesive(s) were used on the gasket?

Kragle time. :lol:

If the trim screws on, what are the clips for?

I did a quick wipe with lacquer thinner to clean actual wire insulation where it is visible. Used these tapes from Inline to re-do my harnesses similar to factory look.. Factory Electrical Wiring Harness Cloth Tape OEM NOS A 1 Roll Factory Electrical Non Adhesive Wiring Harness Friction Tape...

Reading the description.. might not be butchered. Says you get the original parts. Might be completely reversible.

Probably not, but need to measure them. My duster only had 4.5 wide. I upped them to 5.5 - min width to run 215 70 14s all around. Heres some specs on that size . https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bfg-68581/overview/ looking for wheels 6-8" wide. that is measured inside the lip of the rim...

Lots to check out here. Post your wheel and tire combos.

Looks good on the pans. will stay tuned for the doors. Do you have a build thread on this? I see I'm not far from you. Little over an hour North in Red Lion PA

i got some small pieces of copper sheet at a local metal salvage. I hold them in place with magnets. you could split a piece of tube lengthwise and flatten it...

I never ran my Hobart 140 on Flux wire so not sure how different it is. Other than being a bit messier, should be similar. I have run out of gas and know what that does...I think I found the right manual for that welder. Doesn't look like any polarity change on it since it can't run gas...

not at all. just scratch through it, them electrons like to see the metal. same with your ground-be sure its on a clean spot Fabo messenging while mowing is dangerous. do one or the other. the kids don't even do that. Oh, wait, -they don't mow. :eek:

does that metal have primer on it? hit it with a wire scratch brush at the weld joint. Even if its weld through primer. otherwise you need to jack the heat up to get through the primer and you will end up blowing holes in the metal. Make sure you have good ventilation and preferably a...

in a perfect world that would be the way to go, but... no. that's where I used the neoprene roof caulk. if you really want to do it 'right' you probably either need to do the entire pan as the factory did or butt weld pieces in, so nothing overlaps.

I also have attached garage. I have welded in there, but minimal and with the door open. I keep my car outside. it was tarped for a couple years..so I didn't have to bale it out between working on it. Will be again soon when I work on the doors. I did the formed pans up front and a couple...

are you doing 4 separate pieces? Do you have formed pans or just sheet metal?

I did 5/16. also, when you test fit it - get a look underneath to see if you have good frame contact. then draw outline of the rails on the new pan with sharpie so you don't drill any 'air' holes.

I did the fill welds to the rails and overlapped the edges on mine. be sure to allow enough material when you trim it. if you just sit it in place it will be too small when pushed down. i drew a line with sharpie, take back out to see how much overlap. I then set a cinder block on it to keep...

The easiest way is with the dash out, but that requires the window to be removed. So unless you need to do all that.... Not too familiar with the older dash openings, so I don't know if you can do it on yours. On my '75 I can get at the left one with the cluster out and the right one with...