1 part epoxy primer and more primer..

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grassy

grassy

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Folks,

I will be putting my car on a rotisserie this spring and having it soda (or vapor) blasted to find out how deep of a hole I have dug for myself :). There is a coating they spray on it afterwards to prevent flash rusting for about 5 days.

I intend to seal the whole car with 1 part epoxy primer then get to the bodywork. Not sure how long that will take. I am hoping not more than a month or 2.

My intentions are to spray the wheel wells with truck liner (or some sort of protective spray) then spray primer, couple coats of the colour than a few of clear. This is for the underside only.. I will let a pro do the outside.

Do I need to scuff up the underside before I put on the primer if it is a couple months later ?

Can I spray clear with a 1.4 needle ? .. or do I track down a 1.3 needle.

Thanks
 
Depending on the brand of epoxy primer you put on the bottom. Some epoxy primers need to be reapplied if they are not covered by a filler primer in a couple day window.
 
We are quite limited to what we can buy here in Canada so I am looking a Nason. In the TDS is says 2 coats are better than one sprayed at an interval within 30 to 60 minutes based on temps..

plymouth67 said:
Depending on the brand of epoxy primer you put on the bottom. Some epoxy primers need to be reapplied if they are not covered by a filler primer in a couple day window.
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Clesn it good, I would do 2 good coats of epoxy. It will need to be scuffed if time window elapses before another whatever. I like Southern Polyurthane stuff but shipping might be a killer for you.
I have good luck with all PPG stuff also.
 
grassy said:
We are quite limited to what we can buy here in Canada so I am looking a Nason. In the TDS is says 2 coats are better than one sprayed at an interval within 30 to 60 minutes based on temps..
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Yes but, how long after can it sit without being covered by a fill primer before you have to reapply epoxy? For example the PPG Shopline epoxy can't sit for more than 2 days if it sits any longer it needs to be reapplied.
 
Sorry 3 days.

Screenshot_20211216-080313_Drive.jpg
 
just use regular 2k primer and overspray or completely top coat whenever the time comes.
A friend used regular primer on a project and lost interest.It's been outside for a couple of years and hasn't rusted yet.Are you sure you need epoxy primer.
 
Epoxy primer seals it. Regular 2k primer doesn't go over bare metal and bond to it well. Regular 2k primer actually will attract moisture and promote rusting from the inside out. Paint is really what protects your car from rusting but, epoxy will seal it up for a period of time to allow you to get to the paint stage.
 
Nah...regular 2 part primer will be fine until he overspray it. Body shops still use it.And the way use our classics epoxy is an unnecessary expense when our vehicles are kept out of weather.
 
We will have to agree to disagree on that. On a side note I went to school for body and paint...Just sayin'....

If I had my car tore down that far...I would spend the few extra bucks to insure it is sealed up good with epoxy before I moved on.
 
Used epoxy etching primer only once. The smell and overspray was too much. Just use regular two part primer/filler with metal etch first. Keep indoors to prevent any rust issues until painted. Worked fine for many projects (mopars) over the years.
 
The car I bought .. the op had started sanding panels and covering with primer. The car is completely covered in surface rust where the op painted the primer. The primer is designed to suck in paint to adhere it to the metal. If no paint comes , that moisture will penetrate and rust.

I do not remember the episode, but on bitchin' rides, they sprayed a car with primer and then the project was shelved for a bunch of years.. when they dug it off their racks, it needed a complete restore again. I have a friend who has had 2 cars sitting outside on rotisseries for 11 years now (long story), he sprayed with one part epoxy. zero rust.



ir3333 said:
just use regular 2k primer and overspray or completely top coat whenever the time comes.
A friend used regular primer on a project and lost interest.It's been outside for a couple of years and hasn't rusted yet.Are you sure you need epoxy primer.
Click to expand...
 
I have had trouble with PPG here.. the store is staffed by lazy morons so I go to basF. I could not find you questing in the sheets so I will go back to them. It will be at least one, possibly 2 months..

I should mention that we have high humidity here and the ocean is not that far away..

plymouth67 said:
Yes but, how long after can it sit without being covered by a fill primer before you have to reapply epoxy? For example the PPG Shopline epoxy can't sit for more than 2 days if it sits any longer it needs to be reapplied.
Click to expand...
 
grassy said:
I have had trouble with PPG here.. the store is staffed by lazy morons so I go to basF. I could not find you questing in the sheets so I will go back to them. It will be at least one, possibly 2 months..

I should mention that we have high humidity here and the ocean is not that far away..
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I always epoxy primer all panels. The money and time spent on body and paint I see no reason to skip this step.
 
ok..i stand corrected.
if you are worried your panels will rust after 2 or 3 weeks inside using 2k primer, then use epoxy primer. Follow the manufacturers instructions for overspray or full topcoat..
 
grassy said:
Folks,

I will be putting my car on a rotisserie this spring and having it soda (or vapor) blasted to find out how deep of a hole I have dug for myself :). There is a coating they spray on it afterwards to prevent flash rusting for about 5 days.

I intend to seal the whole car with 1 part epoxy primer then get to the bodywork. Not sure how long that will take. I am hoping not more than a month or 2.

My intentions are to spray the wheel wells with truck liner (or some sort of protective spray) then spray primer, couple coats of the colour than a few of clear. This is for the underside only.. I will let a pro do the outside.

Do I need to scuff up the underside before I put on the primer if it is a couple months later ?

Can I spray clear with a 1.4 needle ? .. or do I track down a 1.3 needle.

Thanks
Click to expand...

This all depends on what kind of media they use to blast the surface. Some heavy grit media will leave enough tooth for the epoxy to stick. If it leaves a smooth surface you will need to degrease it very well, sand and then apply the epoxy.

Check with your paint supplier on epoxy coatings. Some are NON SANDING and sand or scuff like bubble gum no matter how long it has been cured. Some newer epoxies sand like filler primer.

Your 1.4 will be fine for most products you intend on using.
 
I say always bother to read the tech sheet for the product. Never fails for me!
The big deal for epoxy primer is it ability to stick... even on slick cat chit!
On bare metal, I use epoxy primer, any filler on that, I want to get couple of good coats of high filler urethane primer on that epoxy quick too. I call that good, then use the epoxy primer reduced for a sealer, then topcoat.
It takes couple of good coats of epoxy to seal the bare metal for me, and I like the urethane primer on that too, especially if not in a sealed garage!
Disclaimer: Your results may vary!
 
You just have to poke around YT to see the overall confusion about 1 part epoxy primer. I was under the impression that it did sand, but not well at all because it was a sealer , not a primer..

I am extremely limited because I live in Canada and we just don't anywhere near the range of product you do.

I have a bit of time before this happens so my paint guy will see me in January :)

thanks

67Dart440GT said:
This all depends on what kind of media they use to blast the surface. Some heavy grit media will leave enough tooth for the epoxy to stick. If it leaves a smooth surface you will need to degrease it very well, sand and then apply the epoxy.

Check with your paint supplier on epoxy coatings. Some are NON SANDING and sand or scuff like bubble gum no matter how long it has been cured. Some newer epoxies sand like filler primer.

Your 1.4 will be fine for most products you intend on using.
Click to expand...
 
the fly in the ointment for me is the welding I need done.. but you and I are on the same page..

barbee6043 said:
I say always bother to read the tech sheet for the product. Never fails for me!
The big deal for epoxy primer is it ability to stick... even on slick cat chit!
On bare metal, I use epoxy primer, any filler on that, I want to get couple of good coats of high filler urethane primer on that epoxy quick too. I call that good, then use the epoxy primer reduced for a sealer, then topcoat.
It takes couple of good coats of epoxy to seal the bare metal for me, and I like the urethane primer on that too, especially if not in a sealed garage!
Disclaimer: Your results may vary!
Click to expand...
 
plymouth67 said:
We will have to agree to disagree on that. On a side note I went to school for body and paint...Just sayin'....

If I had my car tore down that far...I would spend the few extra bucks to insure it is sealed up good with epoxy before I moved on.
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I do not post much here but do have a back ground in body shop as well and agree with you.
But epoxy and 1K both stick or bond to properly prepared metal.
It is though as you stated that the epoxy seals the metal and the 2K is porous.
Being that 2K is porous I would do just as you stated.
Use epoxy, to seal the metal then top coat with 2K whole within the window of what is recomended on the tech sheet. PPG has a day window the primer or paint top coat will make a chemical bond within this period. If not it must be scuffed as what ever top coat going over it will now be a mechanical bond.
Most epoxy can not be sanded so scuffing it is. That is what PPG says to do with their epoxy products.
I agree no way would I skip epoxy on anything that is a long term project like he has. This step should not be skipped.
I also mix one part PPG epoxy with paint grade laqure thinner as a sealer before paint as recomended.
It is good insurance.
 
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grassy said:
the fly in the ointment for me is the welding I need done.. but you and I are on the same page..
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I do not understand how there would be any fly in ointment. You have to cut back to bare metal and remove whatever primer is used to weld. And after done welding recoat with epoxy or whatever and then filler or 2k.
 
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No, I agree with what you said but it will be the time frame between the sealer and the primer.. as previously mentioned, it is usually somewhere before 7 days.. I am going to be way past that window. .. I have not seen much dealing with this sort of time frame.

340six said:
I do not understand how there would be any fly in ointment. You have to cut back to bare metal and remove whatever primer is used to weld. And after done welding recoat with epoxy or whatever and then filler or 2k.
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