1 Wire Alternator Options

-
S

Sebambam

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2024
Messages
87
Reaction score
45
Location
Dallas , TX
Team

im looking for a 1 Wire Alternator option.

is there a OEM alternator i can use, i want to simplify the wiring of my 74 Duster and eleminate the voltage regulator.
So i will go 1 Wire regardless.

All options i really see are Aftermarket brands, like PowerMaster.
 
no idea about OEM
But a denso mini alternator of a kubota digger and a bracket set from mancini does the job
and saves weight.
like a tiny birdcage alternator

36 amp 40 amp 70+ amp etc buy the smallest amps necessary

something like this but i'd look out for an OEM Kubota or denso labelled unit. used on loads of Japanese cars from 90s onwards but the V belt versions come on plant and machinery, cheaper belts easier maintenance.

Alternator Fits Kubota AVF-12534 VA-12534 10-12534 101211-8770 101211-8771 | eBay

disconnect and join together the wires at a 2 wire regulator to get a 12 volt feed to the unit and that's it.

there is a double lower lug mount version as well... not sure what its off

they do versions with the output stud off the side or out the back of the rear unit cap...

stud is output to battery
F/IG is 12 volt in
S is a sense wire connect to battery by its own wire (fused 7-8 amp). this is for the internal regulator measuring battery voltage direct from source, to cater for losses through bulkhead and ammeter route to battery of the main feed.
P is a pulse signal for an ECU it a rev counter feed for ECU charge control on the original truck the 12 V F wire also comes from the ECU
L is for light switched 12 Volt from loom through bulb to this connector light on when alternator fails or is standing still.

You will have IG/ F and output stud to B battery and a range of the others depending on vintage, that don't need to be connected. But sense is a nice thing to have if the route from alternator to battery is via the bulkhead connector and dash.

3 connectors
1) two spades IG/f and L
2) d shaped with 3 pins IG/F L and S
3) oval waterproof connector with 3 pins IG/F, P ,L

order specified on lable

pigtails available for splicing in to loom
check denso site for pin allocation

jones racing products and others do a range of pulleys that fit so you can change the gearing
but the standard one works fine

there are options...... Mopar guys happy to use denso mini starter maybe denso mini alternator is nearly appropriate ;)

based on the spares offered by some suppliers this alternator is the core of some aftermarket kits

Dave
 
Last edited:
Be aware of the caveats. You MUST greatly oversize the charge wire on a "1 wire" in order to have decent voltage regulation. This is because the VR sensing is on the charge wire--the only wire, and voltage drop in that wire will play a part.

I do not see a practical way to use one unless you have bypassed the ammeter and upgraded the wiring
 
67Dart273 said:
Be aware of the caveats. You MUST greatly oversize the charge wire on a "1 wire" in order to have decent voltage regulation. This is because the VR sensing is on the charge wire--the only wire, and voltage drop in that wire will play a part.

I do not see a practical way to use one unless you have bypassed the ammeter and upgraded the wiring
Click to expand...
All wiring is upgraded, that is the main reason. and Yes I am aware I usually use a 1 gauge size, same as tge battery to starter wire.
 
60 amp Alternator Kit

i'm using the denso. easy to get on the shelf at most parts stores....


1727125291394.png

.
 
67Dart273 said:
Everybody says Denso, Joe, but what do you actually ASK for? What are these typically off of? -- application?
Click to expand...
Toyota 4Runner (1985 to 1991 with L4 engine)
The Toyota alternator that fits this application can be purchased as Bosch remanufactured part number AL218X.This number cross references over to Denso 210-0106 and 210-0107 as well as original Toyota number 27060-35060 and 27060-35061.

i used a Napa 213-8283
bracket. 60 amp Alternator Kit
you'll need the plug too.. Denso Pigtail Harness for Denso 210-0106 Alternators
 
I took the long way home on the '89 D100 318 to go 1 wire conversion and eliminate the computer controlled voltage regulator.

Original 2 pulley Alternator.

20240516_102414.jpg


Swapped in a 1985 Ford double pulley Alternator with an aftermarket 1 wire conversion. Charge wire goes direct to the battery with an inline fuse.

20240530_130353.jpg


ATP F7078 Ford 1 Wire Alternator Conversion
Kit by Transpo
American Made

Advance Truck Parts
Sunrise, FL
20240530_111027.jpg


20240524_143811.jpg


20240530_135724.jpg


Wired in simple parts store voltage gauge to a random 12 volt feed, simple and works good to follow voltage output.

Screenshot_20240925-101647_Gallery.jpg


Tried other external regulators but no joy. This setup works well for me.


☆☆☆☆☆
 
On my duster I used the factory looking power master one wire... no problems...
On my power wagon I used a chevy one wire and made a longer lower bracket...
PXL_20211220_225551355.jpg

PXL_20211221_182250946.jpg
IMG_20200613_194417.jpg
 
abodyjoe said:
not sure any are truly 1 wire. its internally regulated. has a main charge wire, a trigger wire (key 12v) and a small 12v wire.
Click to expand...

I read the instructions but I’m not clear on that small 12v wire.

Does it need to be hooked to something or just dead headed?? If it needs to be hooked up is it just switched 12 volts?
 
George Jets said:
I took the long way home on the '89 D100 318 to go 1 wire conversion and eliminate the computer controlled voltage regulator.

Original 2 pulley Alternator.

View attachment 1716307793

Swapped in a 1985 Ford double pulley Alternator with an aftermarket 1 wire conversion. Charge wire goes direct to the battery with an inline fuse.

View attachment 1716307798

ATP F7078 Ford 1 Wire Alternator Conversion
Kit by Transpo
American Made

Advance Truck Parts
Sunrise, FL
View attachment 1716307800

View attachment 1716307801

View attachment 1716307802

Wired in simple parts store voltage gauge to a random 12 volt feed, simple and works good to follow voltage output.

View attachment 1716307806

Tried other external regulators but no joy. This setup works well for me.


☆☆☆☆☆
Click to expand...
I used that exact same regulator on the back of my '67 F250, and it worked slick!

Except I didn't consider the low amperage of the OEM alternator, so I ended-up going with a PowerMaster after all.
 
Newbomb Turk said:
I read the instructions but I’m not clear on that small 12v wire.

Does it need to be hooked to something or just dead headed?? If it needs to be hooked up is it just switched 12 volts?
Click to expand...

how i did mine:

large charge wire (Bat) to start relay on fenderwell
red wire (L) is not used.
green wire (IG) to the original alt fld wire that has key power.
blue wire (S) to start relay on fenderwell

alt wiring.JPG
 
ANY VR that is NOT "1 wire" is/ may be superior, if properly wired, for voltage regulation. This is because a properly set up modern VR with a dedicated sense wire is far more accurate for sensing
 
Denso alternator wiring

Type 1 used on plant machinery and 1980s japanese mini trucks suzuki carry bedford rascal etc
its the simple one
it gets sold as part of ready-made charging solutions for Kit car builders these days.


easier to get the others, they are bloody everywhere, things have progressed beyond just power and output

S sense should be a direct to battery + wire with a 7 amp fuse

The type 4 version isn't covered properly in the diagram below comes in Type 4 A and Type 4B

A = S, IG, L and B = P, IG, L

if you have a Real Denso the sticker will say Denso and next to the O of denso will be a legend saying what the pins in the plug are.

P is a tacho signal for ECU controlled charging, something to do with monitoring phases. if yours has a P leave it disconnected

In theory all are self energising alternators so you need your main B+ connected and you need IG connected.

depending on OEM use you may find the odd one that must have L connected via a bulb to a switched 12 volt but its rare

Avoid type 6
Type 7 is bigger

Capture.JPG



look for one with the correct or at least usefully close mounting lug config and the output stud in a position that won't short out on anything behind
 
Last edited:
I just go with a power master unit... I want to keep it a easy replacement and not wasting time on adhusting,spacing etc.
I had a Denso on my buick and I did not like it
 
Sebambam said:
I just go with a power master unit... I want to keep it a easy replacement and not wasting time on adhusting,spacing etc.
I had a Denso on my buick and I did not like it
Click to expand...


What did you not like about the Denso? I haven’t mounted mine yet so I can change it out if I need to
 
Newbomb Turk said:
What did you not like about the Denso? I haven’t mounted mine yet so I can change it out if I need to
Click to expand...
It's been a few years and idk what amp I had but it couldn't keep up with charging, and I had to shim it arround to get a good belt routing.

I just go stock looking powermaster with simple stock brackets/tensioners
 
Sebambam said:
I want to keep it a easy replacement and not wasting time on adhusting,spacing etc.
Click to expand...

****, buying a toyota denso is cake. everyone has that on the shelf.. plus if you have the correct bracket and spacers already then there is no need to fight all that.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top