10 Day Magnum Swap - '65 Dart 270

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Punisher, sorry for the delay in response, last few days have been crazy. We are using manifolds on the 65 because we arre in a hurry and the engine is not getting any big power improvments, its juat a 300HP 5.2 so factory manifolds will work just fine. I am making headers for the 64. If you have a later model vvehicle, there are a bunch of choices for exhaust. We have block huggers for $240 that should work.
We posted pics of where to put sealer on the oil pan. Dont use the red, blue or black, get the grey stuff, it works much better.
 
Then if you want to spend some bucks, we have our house long tube headers for $279, Dougs for $490, and Schumacher for $700 ish
 
Will the long tube work on early a? Have a pic of them?
 
Ok thank you and no problem. Sorry I'm asking you so many queastions but its my first magnum swap. I pulled engine again and pulled pan and resealed them. I have a set of summit headers I was planning on using just wasn't sure if I could squeeze them in with engine bolted in. Turns out no, no you can't. SO engine will be lifted back up a third time.
 
I am not aware of any headers that dont require at least removing mount bolt and jacking engine up to install on A bodys. Rule of thumb, cheaper the headers, bigger PITA to install. you pay one way or the other....dont feel too bad, we have had engine and trans out of the 64 about 6 times between installing 44RE, tunnel mods, headers and shift linkage!:BangHead:
 
5.2jeepyj said:
Will the long tube work on early a? Have a pic of them?
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I am not sure there is any header that will work on an early A, thats why I am building my own for the 64....was going to have them made,, as well as my headers I built for 67+ that works with PS but my guys that build our jeep swap headers want $700/pr if I order 10 at a time plus $3K jig fee. These are gas welded by hand using 3/8 flanges with virgin USA steel, they fit great, do not require engine removal and wont leak, they also dont require breaking steering linkage loose as they are above not below linkage and dont hand down. I dont know how long it would take to sell 30 sets of headers at $900 just to make $100/set which is about 11% profit before cc charges. Still looking for a company to built them for me for something closer to $500/pr. The early ones I might be able to sell because there is nothing else out there but not willing to gamble $10K to find out. Dont really want to have them made in Mexico or China
 
OK that's what I been finding. Guess I'm using the fender well headers I have lol
 
thats like installing a sun roof in it.....you will hate yourself in the morning, or at least next time it rains:rolleyes:. Unless I was installing more than 325 HP, I would stick with the 273 manifolds. I cry every time I go check out a car to build and it has/had fender well headers, then I head home with an empty trailer.
 
magnummopar said:
thats like installing a sun roof in it.....you will hate yourself in the morning, or at least next time it rains:rolleyes:. Unless I was installing more than 325 HP, I would stick with the 273 manifolds. I cry every time I go check out a car to build and it has/had fender well headers, then I head home with an empty trailer.
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I'm running a stock 2000 5.9 EFI out of a Dakota RT in my 65 Dart. I'm running the 273 exhaust manifolds. How much HP gain could I expect from a cam swap and having you do your thing on the computer?
easyrider
 
A cam will be a noticeable difference. Right now you have about .410 lift and maybe 198^ @.050. If you dont want to mess with valve springs then the only cam I know of that will work is our stage I cam. Its .454" [email protected] and works with pcm. If you do a flash, you can use more duration but factory springs are limited at about .450 and even with largerr springs the factory heads will need guides trimmed around .480 ish(depending on who you ask). If you get EQ's with our stage II spring kit, you can go all the way to .550. Our stage II cam is .520 212@ .050.
Some quick approx #'s
stock heads w/ stage I cam, throttle body and pcm flash 300hp easily probably more like 325
stock heads with stage II cam and springs, guides trimmed, TB and pcm flash 340-350
EQ's w stage I cam and springs $1100 for both 330-350hp with TB and flash/ wouldnt be surprised to see more.
EQ's Stage II cam and springs, ($1300 for both heads and cam), TB and flash 350-370
or go with .533 215@ .050 or even .544 [email protected]
 
03JeepJeep said:
Awesome build!
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Thanks JeepJeep,
Unfortunately this has turned into 10-20 business day build. Been too busy with the A body and Jeep swap stuff to really work on the car. That on top of waiting for parts so we don't use up too much stock its just beem crazy.

-J
 
How come there are descrepancies between carb horsepower and fuel injection horse power. From what I read they should make 400-430 with a carb.
 
magnummopar said:
Thanks JeepJeep,
Unfortunately this has turned into 10-20 business day build. Been too busy with the A body and Jeep swap stuff to really work on the car. That on top of waiting for parts so we don't use up too much stock its just beem crazy.

-J
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Well keep plugging away at it! You guys are really awesome over there and have helped me with a lot of parts! Keep on keeping on!
 
thanks man, appreciate the support, we are working really hard to make this happen for you guys, new parts, better deals and cheaper/quicker shipping. I even got to spend about an hour on early A headers today! Evan
 
Punisher66j said:
How come there are descrepancies between carb horsepower and fuel injection horse power. From what I read they should make 400-430 with a carb.
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I tend to be quite conservative o my HP estimates. Nobody is ever disappointed if they dyno and get 30 hp more than I said but if its 30 HP less....FI and Carb will be the same HP, FI will have more torque sooner due to better air mix.
 
Been a bit since we were able to touch the 65 270 but heres some updates. Engine and trans are all mounted in. The engine harness is mostly installed and through the firewall.

Kelsey Hayes are on the front and all brake plumbing is done. Getting a couple parts from Inline Tube proved to be a waste of time.

Testing wheel colors out right now. Still need new tires mounted so will blast the wheels and paint before they go back on.

Been a busy busy time here at Magnum Mopar. Did a couple install write ups on a disk brake conversion and fuel pump for the website. Been working on getting all new LED lights in the shop. Planning the converts next steps and secured a line of wheels for us Mopar people.

Some electrical, lower radiator hose, new tires and we will be on the road.

-J

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Excellent!!!!!! Patiently waiting.....

Jake
 
Are those 340 manifolds you are running?

Do they bolt right up to the mag heads. I swear someone told me in a post the other day that the port sizes were different and they had to make an adaptor plate.

Has that been your experience?

Thanks!

CE
 
Okay I wasnt imagining things. It was over in the 64 Dart GT swap thread. His experience/post noted that:

The manifolds will bolt right on but will have a 1/4 inch open spot underneath where there is a port mismatch. These are the 69 hipo manifolds I'm talking about.
I made 14 gauge steel plates and cut the hole to fit the head port size and the cut the outer edge to fit the manifold.
A better bet would to use magnum manifolds, if you can find some to fit.


Yay, nay?
 
those are 318 manifolds and since it only has our stage I cam, it will be fine. I did a bunch of work on the car today and will have J post them in the morning. Got fuel pump and sender wired up, pcm plugged in, battery tray back in. Have the kick down converted to cable and some other misc crap. Should be ready for anti freeze by tomorrow and its ready for oil and fuel right now so not muuch longer guys. Then we are going to do the 67 vert in next two weeks! Have boxes of drilled slotted front and rear disks, axles, 2000 Durango, 5 x 4.5 17 wheels and a fuel tank....couple of red bulls and should be good to go.
 
ValiantOne said:
Okay I wasnt imagining things. It was over in the 64 Dart GT swap thread. His experience/post noted that:

The manifolds will bolt right on but will have a 1/4 inch open spot underneath where there is a port mismatch. These are the 69 hipo manifolds I'm talking about.
I made 14 gauge steel plates and cut the hole to fit the head port size and the cut the outer edge to fit the manifold.
A better bet would to use magnum manifolds, if you can find some to fit.


Yay, nay?
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Here is a link to a post I made about the same issue with a picture. 5.9magnum questions

In the thread I mentioned that I only had the exhuast port issue with the MP R/T heads and not the factory heads my buddy had laying around. My issue was because the material around the port stopped just below the port, but the factory head was cast all the way to the deck surface and then machined. Not sure if this changed, but I assumed it wasn't an issue with any of the factory heads, only the aftermarket R/T head. Not sure what the EQ heads look like, either.
 
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