Sure do!
That's one of the times I was trying out the autolites.
Just checked - Nov 2009
Here's a set with about 300 miles of street and highway use after the headers went on. (Nov 2016)
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100 cfm more with anular and downleg boosters can't beat AFR
- Thread starter Mattax
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That's one of the times I was trying out the autolites.
Just checked - Nov 2009
Here's a set with about 300 miles of street and highway use after the headers went on. (Nov 2016)
I have both threads saved with pictures. Do you still have the cam card with the timing events in particular the intake closing points?
Edit: Never mind I think I found it here:
#8---Older Camshaft Profiles (Big Block Hydraulic: HE Series)
It shows the @ 50 timings but not seat.
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I have the cam card. I'll dig it out after dinner. Hughes was pretty close to the chest about timing events other than .050 We'll see whats on it.
edit: added a photo above with a newer set of plugs.
Those plugs look much better but still lots of grey and no color on the porcelain. What do they look like inside the shell?
Have you pulled the carb off to see if the reversion in the intake manifold has improved as a result of the header change?
Have you pulled the carb off to see if the reversion in the intake manifold has improved as a result of the header change?
The flash obscures some of the plug colouration
Here's a couple close ups that are better. I'll need to check if these were still RN9Y or the slightly hotter 12 which I have been trying out.
#3
Here's a couple close ups that are better. I'll need to check if these were still RN9Y or the slightly hotter 12 which I have been trying out.
#3
Did you end up buying that Picoscope you asked about way back when? I took Bruce's advice and swapped my MSD box and coil for the Crane HI-6 and PS92 coil and the change was very noticeable especially at idle.
No I didn't. Nor any of the cool old scopes that Halifaxhops has had. One day. After I move out of that garage into one of my own.
Have a look into this:
https://au.element14.com/pico-techn...MP=KNC-GAU-GEN-SHOPPING-TEST-AND-MEASUREMENTS
Edit. Did you find the cam card?
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Its not just the unit. Need the clamps and the number channels, and a laptop that works with it. I brought this up on Speedtalk too. It would be really cool, I'm just not there.
Something you can try to do if you have access to Avgas you can run it on that as it has a lower point at which it vaporizes and so if you see an improvement then you know that's what you need to work on.
Or you can change the cam or the carb. The carbs easier to change and I would either try a 600 with straight boosters or get the 650 boosters changed. My preference would be the 600 as the it would increase the vaporization more so than the 650. Main bodies are cheap so you can use everything else. Its funny how on a running engine reversion can make its way all the way to the underside of the air cleaner. If the incoming charge isn't sufficiently vaporized in the intake runner then there's very little to oppose the exhaust making its way up. Do you have a smaller intake manifold you can use?
Like I said earlier advancing the cam will build more cylinder pressure which is most probably what you need.
Or you can change the cam or the carb. The carbs easier to change and I would either try a 600 with straight boosters or get the 650 boosters changed. My preference would be the 600 as the it would increase the vaporization more so than the 650. Main bodies are cheap so you can use everything else. Its funny how on a running engine reversion can make its way all the way to the underside of the air cleaner. If the incoming charge isn't sufficiently vaporized in the intake runner then there's very little to oppose the exhaust making its way up. Do you have a smaller intake manifold you can use?
Like I said earlier advancing the cam will build more cylinder pressure which is most probably what you need.
Also some other things to think about. What voltage does your ignition unit see while its running? Make sure its at least 13.8v
What's the resistance of the plugs you use. If they are 0 resistance then check them and make sure they measure 0.5 ohms at most otherwise they are no good for what you're trying to do.
Same with the leads check to make sure they are all good and have similar resistances.
Grab a spark tester as they are cheap and see what every spark plug gets
Lots of cheap stuff to do to improve what you have.
What's the resistance of the plugs you use. If they are 0 resistance then check them and make sure they measure 0.5 ohms at most otherwise they are no good for what you're trying to do.
Same with the leads check to make sure they are all good and have similar resistances.
Grab a spark tester as they are cheap and see what every spark plug gets
Lots of cheap stuff to do to improve what you have.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
Uh, not ridiculous if you understand how spark plugs function.
In electrical theory, there is a phenomenon called quench, not related to c/chamber quench. When a spark is initiated from a metal surface, the surrounding metal which is colder tries to extinguish or quench the spark. By reducing the volume of metal, you reduce the chances of quenching; hence, fine wire electrodes [ Plat, Irid ]. This reduces misfires which is good for power, economy &...emissions.
There is a side benefit for smart thinking hot rodders: less arc over voltage is reqd with thinner electrodes. This means that you can increase your plug gap slightly without increasing the load on the ign system. Common sense tells us that the bigger the gap, the better the chance of ign.
In electrical theory, there is a phenomenon called quench, not related to c/chamber quench. When a spark is initiated from a metal surface, the surrounding metal which is colder tries to extinguish or quench the spark. By reducing the volume of metal, you reduce the chances of quenching; hence, fine wire electrodes [ Plat, Irid ]. This reduces misfires which is good for power, economy &...emissions.
There is a side benefit for smart thinking hot rodders: less arc over voltage is reqd with thinner electrodes. This means that you can increase your plug gap slightly without increasing the load on the ign system. Common sense tells us that the bigger the gap, the better the chance of ign.
I’ve seen in books where a thinner strap was suggested and pictured filed down. Interesting stuff.
Have you scoped the the different plugs to see what the arc formation was like in the same engine?
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
Actually, it IS ridiculous and it’s not a theory.
All those platinum plugs and **** are for MILEAGE. Period. It’s such a ***** to change plugs in new cars, and the owners are too stupid and lazy to do it, they use metals like that to extend the mileage before the gap opens up.
Standard plug for easier and wear out quicker.
Do your own research. It’s a bunch of bullshit running plugs like that, especially if the ignition is a bit deficient, and most of them are.
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Rumble, I know the thinner grd straps that you mention. I think that is done to expose more of the flame kernel because the grd strap tends to block flame travel. I think that is the theory behind the E3 plugs. Some are gimmicks, some are not. Projected nose core core plugs were probably labeled a gimmick when they first appeared, & the rest is history....
If you think it about the strap doesn't take up a lot of space in relation to the diameter.
When there is shrouding effect it can been seen when reading the plugs. I used to index the plugs all the time. Did it help? Maybe. The stock elim guy who mentored me was convinced it did - and stock elim is all about squeezing tenths and hundreths out of an engine. I also experimented with notching the straps. But I think all that did was provide more sharp edges for the initial jump.
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