1000hp 727 full manual build

-
Miszny

Miszny

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 24, 2012
Messages
861
Reaction score
594
Location
Warsaw
Hi

Yet another build thread from my side, this time it will be transmission.
What would you guys use to build 727 that can live behind 1000hp nitrous combo street strip Duster?
Car weight is 3250lbs with driver, engine is 500ci 12:1 solid roller dual dominator tunnel ram combo with small wet shot. Dana 60 with 4.10 gears, 29” tires.
This will not have trans brake, but it would be good to build it as if there was one to have extra durability marigin.

What I wanted to get:
- Billet steel front drum (a&a that takes standard piston) with Sonnax piston and full set of springs with billet retainer. This takes 5 frictions I think.
- Billet steel front planetary 4 pinion rollerized (a&a)
- 2.28 1st gear with helical gears fully rollerized with billet alu 4 pinion planetary (a&a)
- Reverse manual vb high pressure a&a or crt with high flow filter and 4.2 lever (also have 5.0 if better choice)
- Deep cast aluminium pan
- Teflon rings
- Sonnax front and rear servo
- Rigid front band
- Stacked cooler with fan
- Bolt in sprag
- Converter will be custom built to spec

Did I miss anything besides thick wallet?
I am trying to save some cash if there is room for it, so didn’t really plan to buy non essentials.
Is light sunshell worth the money?

Thank you in advance for all the insight.
If you have some good used parts I could use for this, please send me PM.
 
Duster346 said:
Just say no to red servos
Click to expand...
The core I have has these red servos and I was thinking about swapping ones I have with these. My unit (the one I will be upgrading) has K029 reverse servo and aluminium retainer for it plus K080 front servo both made by Superior. Hope these are better than red Sonnax?
My unt has 4,2 ratio front lever, the core unit has 5.0
My plan is to build 2 transmissions, one for me and one for sale to make all this easier on my wallet. The one for sale will be equipped with 4 pinion aluminium planets, deep factory front drum, both have bolt in sprags already. Also core unit has red aluminium accumulator, mine has standard one wih rod inside so its not moving.
My transmission has old a&a reverse manual valve body, the core unit has tci reverse manual valve body. Both dont have band apply so I will use a&a in unit for sale, and sale the tci vb as well.

I hope this thread can also help people in similar situation to pick no nonsense parts and avoid getting things that look nice but dont give the quality expected.
 
Miszny said:
The core I have has these red servos and I was thinking about swapping ones I have with these. My unit (the one I will be upgrading) has K029 reverse servo and aluminium retainer for it plus K080 front servo both made by Superior. Hope these are better than red Sonnax?
My unt has 4,2 ratio front lever, the core unit has 5.0
My plan is to build 2 transmissions, one for me and one for sale to make all this easier on my wallet. The one for sale will be equipped with 4 pinion aluminium planets, deep factory front drum, both have bolt in sprags already. Also core unit has red aluminium accumulator, mine has standard one wih rod inside so its not moving.
My transmission has old a&a reverse manual valve body, the core unit has tci reverse manual valve body. Both dont have band apply so I will use a&a in unit for sale, and sale the tci vb as well.

I hope this thread can also help people in similar situation to pick no nonsense parts and avoid getting things that look nice but dont give the quality expected.
Click to expand...

Are you going to do a build thread ?
 
jimjimjimmy said:
Are you going to do a build thread ?
Click to expand...
There will be photos here, all parts listed etc. Thats the plan and only reason for opening this thread. Counting on Chris to provide the parts and also most importantly insight into all this, we already talked.
Initially I didn't want to do all stuff at once because of cost of all this but decided to get all needed stuff at once and build it right.
Next step for me is 500ci short block based on 230 block with aluminium rods and probably x bolted main caps. This is planned for near future.
Now this trans will live in my Duster behind current 470ci tunnel ram combo with nitrous.
 
Miszny said:
Hi

Yet another build thread from my side, this time it will be transmission.
What would you guys use to build 727 that can live behind 1000hp nitrous combo street strip Duster?
Car weight is 3250lbs with driver, engine is 500ci 12:1 solid roller dual dominator tunnel ram combo with small wet shot. Dana 60 with 4.10 gears, 29” tires.
This will not have trans brake, but it would be good to build it as if there was one to have extra durability marigin.

What I wanted to get:
- Billet steel front drum (a&a that takes standard piston) with Sonnax piston and full set of springs with billet retainer. This takes 5 frictions I think.
- Billet steel front planetary 4 pinion rollerized (a&a)
- 2.28 1st gear with helical gears fully rollerized with billet alu 4 pinion planetary (a&a)
- Reverse manual vb high pressure a&a or crt with high flow filter and 4.2 lever (also have 5.0 if better choice)
- Deep cast aluminium pan
- Teflon rings
- Sonnax front and rear servo
- Rigid front band
- Stacked cooler with fan
- Bolt in sprag
- Converter will be custom built to spec

Did I miss anything besides thick wallet?
I am trying to save some cash if there is room for it, so didn’t really plan to buy non essentials.
Is light sunshell worth the money?

Thank you in advance for all the insight.
If you have some good used parts I could use for this, please send me PM.
Click to expand...
You need to contact A&A for all the good parts. He builds @TomMoparMan 's transmissions. Tom is running around 900 horse in his Duster and get's years of use out of his torqueflite. Tom's car is on the catalog. Black and white Duster.

1708349783269.png
 
toolmanmike said:
You need to contact A&A for all the good parts. He builds @TomMoparMan 's transmissions. Tom is running around 900 horse in his Duster and get's years of use out of his torqueflite. Tom's car is on the catalog. Black and white Duster.

View attachment 1716209132
Click to expand...
Seems like everything used here will be a&a. The vb I had worked flawless for so many years its really impressive.
 
440 Mike said:
Heavy duty pump gear set?
Click to expand...
Yes if needed, at this point I am willing to add whatever is needed to do it as well as possible without comming back to it anytime soon.
Frankly when I think about pain of removing my transmission, I'm motivated to do it right.
 
If you talked with Chris Andrews, he will steer you in the right direction. No doubt it will handle that much power. Your wallet is going to be hurting.


I just did 3 727s that are all built for very high HP. Two are going in 3400lb roadrunners with over 900hp and one is going in my own race car that will be pushing 900HP.

I posted in the racer forum the parts list on the two 727s that are in 3400lb roadrunners. Stay away from aluminum drums though. Definitely billet steel over aluminum.

Thread 'Winter transmission builds'

www.forabodiesonly.com

Winter transmission builds

Just finished my dads 727 yesterday. The powerglide build is this upcoming sundays job. My buddy I work with is not the best at photos or else we would have had more detailed pictures of each individual piece laid out. 727 is going in my dads 68 Roadrunner behind a 540 Hemi. It is a 100% race...
www.forabodiesonly.com www.forabodiesonly.com
 
Last edited:
71Demon528 said:
If you talked with Chris Andrews, he will steer you in the right direction. No doubt it will handle that much power. Your wallet is going to be hurting.


I just did 3 727s that are all built for very high HP. Two are going in 3400lb roadrunners with over 900hp and one is going in my own race car that will be pushing 900HP.

I posted in the racer forum the parts list on the two 727s that are in 3400lb roadrunners. Stay away from aluminum drums though. Definitely billet steel over aluminum.

Thread 'Winter transmission builds'

[/URL]
Click to expand...
Thank you, I must learn to search better instead of duplicating content here.
Yes I was mentioning Chris Andrews and yes my wallet will be smashed by this but its not like I have a choice.
I wanted to do this gradually but I realized it makes no sense at all.

This is why I decided to build my spare trans into something that can handle 600hp engine and sell off.
I lucked out on my spare because after opening it up it turned out that only front band tab fell of the band. Other than that its practically ready to go.
I will upgrade it with deep front drum, deep aluminium pan, reverse manual valve body, 4 pinion aluminim front and rear planetary, rigid front band, new clutches, narrow notch belville spring, 374 forward clucth piston, set clearances, put all new seals and let it go hopefully getting half of what the parts will cost me for my unit. Bolt in sprag is already there also. Should be a nice unit for someone.
Now will need to check if these sonnax servos that this unit has leak as Chris warned me about it. Thats the plan at least.
 
My buddy's father-in-law about died from his case exploding and he only had 850 horsepower...wish they had a thick race case for 727...he went powerglide with about $9,000 in it
 
Miszny said:
Thank you, I must learn to search better instead of duplicating content here.
Yes I was mentioning Chris Andrews and yes my wallet will be smashed by this but its not like I have a choice.
I wanted to do this gradually but I realized it makes no sense at all.

This is why I decided to build my spare trans into something that can handle 600hp engine and sell off.
I lucked out on my spare because after opening it up it turned out that only front band tab fell of the band. Other than that its practically ready to go.
I will upgrade it with deep front drum, deep aluminium pan, reverse manual valve body, 4 pinion aluminim front and rear planetary, rigid front band, new clutches, narrow notch belville spring, 374 forward clucth piston, set clearances, put all new seals and let it go hopefully getting half of what the parts will cost me for my unit. Bolt in sprag is already there also. Should be a nice unit for someone.
Now will need to check if these sonnax servos that this unit has leak as Chris warned me about it. Thats the plan at least.
Click to expand...

Certainly not saying duplicate everything you see on here. I enjoy reading this thread and you’re a smart guy for trying to search better content. I was just mentioning those builds for an example. with Chris Andrews advising you on what needs upgraded, you’ll be fine. Just wanted to share is all. The stuff you initially listed are the main components I would say are required for a high HP build. Being a non trans brake unit, you may get lucky with no 300m input shaft output shaft and billet hub, but with how much power your planning on having and giving it nitrous, I would certainly recommend them in your case.

I do like your 2.28 ratio choice.
 
Last edited:
Mtrhead said:
My buddy's father-in-law about died from his case exploding and he only had 850 horsepower...wish they had a thick race case for 727...he went powerglide with about $9,000 in it
Click to expand...

I’ve never heard of a case exploding. I’ve heard of poor driveline alignment cracking cases and ruining them, but never a case just exploding. If an internal part fails and get sent through the case, well that’s a different story. If a stock front drum explodes it certainly looks like the case exploded.
 
71Demon528 said:
Certainly not saying duplicate everything you see on here. I enjoy reading this thread and you’re a smart guy for trying to search better content. I was just mentioning those builds for an example. with Chris Andrews advising you on what needs upgraded, you’ll be fine. Just wanted to share is all. The stuff you initially listed are the main components I would say are required for a high HP build. Being a non trans brake unit, you may get lucky with no 300m input shaft output shaft and billet hub, but with how much power your planning on having and giving it nitrous, I would certainly recommend them in your case.

I do like your 2.28 ratio choice.
Click to expand...
For now with 470ci input and output shafts should live even with some nitrous. I’m using controller with softened nitrous hit.
With new 500ci bottom end ready I will have perfect opportunity to swap last weak points in the trans. This is around 1700$ more added to what is already on the list.

Higher gear ratios was an effort to make it launch better or worse surface. I was sure my only option here was straight cut gears but found out from chris that 2.28 helical is available.

BTW did anyone try these speedmaster straight cut gear sets for 1400$? I had very bad experience with connecting rods from them for some low budget build so I really dont trust their stuff, but still am curious about weather these hold up and are worth looking at.
 
Miszny said:
For now with 470ci input and output shafts should live even with some nitrous. I’m using controller with softened nitrous hit.
With new 500ci bottom end ready I will have perfect opportunity to swap last weak points in the trans. This is around 1700$ more added to what is already on the list.

Higher gear ratios was an effort to make it launch better or worse surface. I was sure my only option here was straight cut gears but found out from chris that 2.28 helical is available.

BTW did anyone try these speedmaster straight cut gear sets for 1400$? I had very bad experience with connecting rods from them for some low budget build so I really dont trust their stuff, but still am curious about weather these hold up and are worth looking at.
Click to expand...

Ya the 2.28 helical cut gear is a nice option without a doubt. If you’re leaving softly and not getting too aggressive with the nitrous then ya I’d bet the stock shafts will be fine. Stuff adds up quick no doubt.

Never heard of speedmaster transmission parts. I’m sure their straight cut gears will make its way into this thread.
 
71Demon528 said:
Ya the 2.28 helical cut gear is a nice option without a doubt. If you’re leaving softly and not getting too aggressive with the nitrous then ya I’d bet the stock shafts will be fine. Stuff adds up quick no doubt.

Never heard of speedmaster transmission parts. I’m sure their straight cut gears will make its way into this thread.
Click to expand...
This season my car will see track 3 to 5 times tops only for some tuning sessions. I want this car to be effective on the street, thats my biggest goal given local reality. Tracks where I am have no prepped surface at all, just some rubber that cars left and thats it. Thats why no trans brake and nitrous come on gradually activated by wot switch from 20% to 100%. On concrete surface lounching a car like you guys do in USA is not an option.
 
I am that on motor and way exceed that on both kits and street drive my car. It is Coan 727 with A&A parts and a 9" PTC 5600 convertor. I have never had any issues to date.

IMG_8666.jpg
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top