1000hp 727 full manual build

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Did you have to modify the floor board to fit either the TCI shield or JW bellhousing ?
Yes, I did. I had to raise the tunnel about 3/4" of an inch to clear the belhousing due to being more than twice as thick.the shield just barely cleared.
 
Besides weight savings, what is the benefit of the lightened sun shell. What does a sun shell do?
I don't know

The front drum/high gear drum has tabs (for lack of a better term) that spline into the sun shell. When the car is in first gear, the input shaft is turning clockwise (which it always does), but the sun shell and High gear drum are turning counter clockwise. When the car is shifted to second gear, the second gear servo is applied, and front band stops the high gear drum with the sun shell from spinning. When the car is shifted into third gear, the high gear clutch is engaged as the band is released which is where the 2-3 overlap comes from.

Weight saving is the benefit of the lightened one, so less reciprocating weight. Also a stock one you can sometimes see where the high gear drum tabs wear the sun shell. The aftermarket ones I haven’t seen do that. So I would argue strength is also a benefit.
 
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Yes, I did. I had to raise the tunnel about 3/4" of an inch to clear the belhousing due to being more than twice as thick.the shield just barely cleared.
Thanks, I was planning to add both and this helps.
 
The front drum/high gear drum has tabs (for lack of a better term) that spline into the sun shell. When the car is in first gear, the input shaft is turning clockwise (which it always does), but the sun shell and High gear drum are turning counter clockwise. When the car is shifted to second gear, the second gear servo is applied, and front band stops the high gear drum with the sun shell from spinning. When the car is shifted into third gear, the high gear clutch is engaged as the band is released which is where the 2-3 overlap comes from.

Weight saving is the benefit of the lightened one, so less reciprocating weight. Also a stock one you can sometimes see where the high gear drum tabs wear the sun shell. The aftermarket ones I haven’t seen do that. So I would argue strength is also a benefit.
For sure less rotating weight is a good thing. I will get it when I order billet input shaft and hub. This should be last step for me, but I'm swapping these only when trans needs to get off the car ;-)
 
There are clean neutral valve bodies available for people who need neutral after the run as to not decelerate down on aluminum rods.

Neutralizing an automatic transmission at speed with a stock drum is no bueno as you can explode it out of the transmission.
 
There are clean neutral valve bodies available for people who need neutral after the run as to not decelerate down on aluminum rods.

Neutralizing an automatic transmission at speed with a stock drum is no bueno as you can explode it out of the transmission.
I just reach up and hit the kill switch and throw the chute when needed to slow the car down. Never had a clean neutral set up.
 
I just reach up and hit the kill switch and throw the chute when needed to slow the car down. Never had a clean neutral set up.
Shutting the car off at speed isn't necessarily great, either. Do you have needle bearings throughout?

With the engine shut off the geartrain is starved for lube oil.
 
Shutting the car off at speed isn't necessarily great, either. Do you have needle bearings throughout?

With the engine shut off the geartrain is starved for lube oil.
Guess I should have explained better that I don't shut it off until stopping on the return road to through the chute in the passenger door.
 
So the parts arrived months ago, but there was no time to get things done. I also got rollerized rear support, but never took a photo. Here are some pictures of the goodies. I used kolene steels and alto frictions. I had plenty of these. Also rigid wide front band, billet steel anchor and strut etc. Next purchase is 300m input shaft but this will need to wait. I regret not buying it now. Pulling transmission from my car is a total nightmare. Took me over 4 hours.

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I did all the clearances and endplay parameters as Chris suggested. It wasn’t easy to make his tight tolerances happen but I did it.
Turned out my transmission was in bad shape. Before pulling, my car only could do burnout in 1st gear, after switching to 2nd or 3rd wheels would stop
This is result of 300 shot of nitrous testing, my bad ;-)

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I did all the clearances and endplay parameters as Chris suggested. It wasn’t easy to make his tight tolerances happen but I did it.
Turned out my transmission was in bad shape. Before pulling, my car only could do burnout in 1st gear, after switching to 2nd or 3rd wheels would stop
This is result of 300 shot of nitrous testing, my bad ;-)

View attachment 1716323780
Chris is very very helpful. I'm glad you went with ART.
Is your son a redhead???
If so the world's future is still safe.
 
Took me 2 full days to build the trans to spec. Another 5 hours to install and when I almost announced job done and turned the key to start the car, I heard cracking noise. Instantly realized I forgot to tighten the bolts on the starter.
Result was cracked housing.
This meat unbolting drivers side header, to get starter off the car.
I tried to buy a new starter but ended up welding the housing back together. Need to import new starter to have a spare just in case.

After all the drama car runs and drives.
Change of 1st gear ratio is a game changer. Much better off the line performance! Also trans shifts stronger and I got rid of 2/3 overlap.
And it’s dry after driving some miles ;-)

Overall I am very happy with this. I was thinking about 2nd gen hemi for my Duster, but after this trans in/out experience, I must say, NO THANKS ;-)
 
Hi

Yet another build thread from my side, this time it will be transmission.
What would you guys use to build 727 that can live behind 1000hp nitrous combo street strip Duster?
Car weight is 3250lbs with driver, engine is 500ci 12:1 solid roller dual dominator tunnel ram combo with small wet shot. Dana 60 with 4.10 gears, 29” tires.
This will not have trans brake, but it would be good to build it as if there was one to have extra durability marigin.

What I wanted to get:
- Billet steel front drum (a&a that takes standard piston) with Sonnax piston and full set of springs with billet retainer. This takes 5 frictions I think.
- Billet steel front planetary 4 pinion rollerized (a&a)
- 2.28 1st gear with helical gears fully rollerized with billet alu 4 pinion planetary (a&a)
- Reverse manual vb high pressure a&a or crt with high flow filter and 4.2 lever (also have 5.0 if better choice)
- Deep cast aluminium pan
- Teflon rings
- Sonnax front and rear servo
- Rigid front band
- Stacked cooler with fan
- Bolt in sprag
- Converter will be custom built to spec

Did I miss anything besides thick wallet?
I am trying to save some cash if there is room for it, so didn’t really plan to buy non essentials.
Is light sunshell worth the money?

Thank you in advance for all the insight.
If you have some good used parts I could use for this, please send me PM.
Tried to send you a PM, but your mail box is full. Send me a note.
 
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