14.45 with 12 sec combo... HELP

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Where is the closest track that prints out a full slip? In my opinion that would help out the most.
 
Where is the closest track that prints out a full slip? In my opinion that would help out the most.

the closest track is 300 km away :S

NEWS: I bought a procomp intake and a set of mr.Gasket springs 925b.. I'm waiting that the pieces arrive
 
the closest track is 300 km away :S

NEWS: I bought a procomp intake and a set of mr.Gasket springs 925b.. I'm waiting that the pieces arrive

Load it up and make the trip amigo. If you have a 14 second run with a 1.98 60 foot time that will say a lot. If you have a 14 second car with a 100 mph trap speed it will also say a lot.
 
the closest track is 300 km away :S

NEWS: I bought a procomp intake and a set of mr.Gasket springs 925b.. I'm waiting that the pieces arrive

Good luck with the port misalignment:violent1::violent1: don't say i didn't warn ya' about that jap crap..
 
hi guys
I'll tell you my problem. i have a 1976 duster with this combo:

360 - .030 over
KB107 pistons
stock rods and crank (ARP bolts on rods)
587 heads - ported and 2.02 valves
Torker 2 intake
Holley 750 DP- 73-82
crower camshaft 267-271 - 474- 485 lift (267hdp)
dana 44 with spool -391 gears
TF904 - transgo
Dacco 2500 converter
26x10 slicks
MSD 6AL 5500 limiter
true dual exhaust - 2 dynomax super turbo - no x pipe


yesterday I went to the track ...
my duster was moving, did not go right ... my best ET was a disappointing 14.43. the track havent 60 foot- mph, etc... only ET

what happen with my duster???... We expected 12.90 :???::???:


HELPPPP

You have an easy 12 second combo. How do I know? I built an almost identical combo for a Duster that ran deep into the 12s.

You didn't need to get rid of the Torker 2 manifold, it's the Torker 340 that is terrible. That being said, the ProComp/Professional Products dual plane is a good choice, and made more power on the dyno than an Edelbrock RPM Airgap. By the way, it isn't made in Japan, which incidentally, is where just about everyone's TV is made these days.

I believe you would be better off with a vacuum secondary carb with such a tight converter, but with 3.91:1 gears, it should still get into the 12's without a problem.

With stock rockers, you should run your best et's shifting at 52-5400 rpm. With a 1.6 roller rocker, it will like 5800-6000.

Your ignition timing should be about 15-16 degrees initial, and 34-35 degrees total. Do not put a bunch of total timing in the motor with the KB pistons. It will detonate, and break a lot of stuff.

Work on the suspension. My customer ran 12's on regular 8" radial street tires, not drag radials. You will drive yourself mad if you keep swapping parts without sorting out what you already have.

Check out this YouTube link of a motor very close to yours.
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GtpWWHjZamQ"]SB 360 Mopar Dyno Test - YouTube[/ame]

Also, a pic of the motor.

Mike Beachel
B³ Racing Engines
www.b3racingengines.com
 

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You have an easy 12 second combo. How do I know? I built an almost identical combo for a Duster that ran deep into the 12s.

You didn't need to get rid of the Torker 2 manifold, it's the Torker 340 that is terrible. That being said, the ProComp/Professional Products dual plane is a good choice, and made more power on the dyno than an Edelbrock RPM Airgap. By the way, it isn't made in Japan, which incidentally, is where just about everyone's TV is made these days.

I believe you would be better off with a vacuum secondary carb with such a tight converter, but with 3.91:1 gears, it should still get into the 12's without a problem.

With stock rockers, you should run your best et's shifting at 52-5400 rpm. With a 1.6 roller rocker, it will like 5800-6000.

Your ignition timing should be about 15-16 degrees initial, and 34-35 degrees total. Do not put a bunch of total timing in the motor with the KB pistons. It will detonate, and break a lot of stuff.

Work on the suspension. My customer ran 12's on regular 8" radial street tires, not drag radials. You will drive yourself mad if you keep swapping parts without sorting out what you already have.

Check out this YouTube link of a motor very close to yours.
SB 360 Mopar Dyno Test - YouTube

Also, a pic of the motor.

Mike Beachel
B³ Racing Engines
www.b3racingengines.com


in this forum, there are many different opinions ... almost everyone says that I have a combo of 13s. You say that this a combo of 12 seconds.

That is interesting, learn different things and opinions.

a question,... what is the ideal ignition timing for the KB pistons and my combo?
do you have an idea of what is the correct set of carb jets for my combo?... i have 73 - 82?

thanks
 
On your carb jetting, find the list number and look here. I bet it's fat right now. Depending on carb, it may want something more in the 70-80 jetting range.

Copy this to the address bar and take out the space between the : and /

http: //documents.holley.com/techlibrary_carb_numerical_listing.pdf

https://www.holley.com/support/resources/
Click on Carb numercal listing


[ame]http://documents.holley.com/techlibrary_carb_numerical_listing.pdf[/ame]

Start with the stock jetting.
 
Open chamber, it may want as much as 40 total timing. Only way to know is test and read plugs..
 
I wouldn't worry too much about initial, as long as it's around 14 or so

It's your total you need to concern yourself with getting set up,
 
I have never ran a small block with the timing set that low. I would start total timing at least 35* and try it. Mine is set at 35 now and I am going to raise it and see if it picks up. I was told mine needs to be at least 38*.
 
I have never ran a small block with the timing set that low. I would start total timing at least 35* and try it. Mine is set at 35 now and I am going to raise it and see if it picks up. I was told mine needs to be at least 38*.

but for KB pistons.. The ideal is 32?? 35 total?
 
The first motor I had in my Demon I put KB pistons in and always ran my timing at 35* unless I was spraying Nitrous. Then I would back it down to around 28* when I would spray 175 hp on it on pump gas (93 octane). I never had any problems. I always set total timing with the motor over 2500 rpm and did not worry about where it was at idle. The distributor in my D50 is locked with no advance.
 
I read theyre sending a manned spaceship to mars. Two years in traveling time.One-way, no return flight.

its true? is an oxymoron
Its true. is a statement.
Is it true? is a question.
Theres no proper answer to an oxymoron. Its like the age old one;"have you stopped beating your wife,yet"?

Why do you focus so intensely on running on the edge? Its one thing to build a race car, and enter competition.Its a totally different thing to build a street car.I can almost guarantee that on the street, your a$4dyno will not tell the difference between 32 and 35 degrees.And neither will your pistons.
 
But the *** dyno would feel the difference if he gave it more initial timing like a lot of people keep telling him to do. I know from experience with that tight converter it would really wake up with more initial timing.
 
^^ absolutely correct
Early on, we learned he was running 5* initial and 32* total, abreviated; 5/32
Thats a good 10* short at the little end and about 4 short at the other.
So lets say we modded the dizzy to give 16/36.. That means the initial would jump up 11 degrees. The engine will have a very different personality, for sure .
 
But I had read that the KB107, can break or damage over 35... its true?

over 35 mph? 35 rpm? ??

have used them in several bracket motors that are turning over 6000 rpm...
 
Open chamber, it may want as much as 40 total timing. Only way to know is test and read plugs..

I agree!

But I had read that the KB107, can break or damage over 35... its true?

I know that those piston would brake easier the forged!

35*... timing

This is a street car aka it has exh right? so you will hear it detonate and lift on the go peddle right?
When you hear a pinging or knocking noise, you lift on the go peddle and retard your timing a couple of degrees.

If you ignore the ping and keep the go peddle down, NOW! you risk the change of shatter a piston.
 
you haven't told us what dist. you are running. There are some simple ways to re-curve your dist. these days. aka change your mechanical advance from 5-32, to a 15-32(i still thing you need more then 32* total for a stock open chamber heads that you have.)
 
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