15V

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808-dartGT

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Another challenge... so my dart wasn’t charging, I got it with new alternator ( I called tech support and they said it’s 60 amp). It wasn’t charging, so I bypassed the voltage regulator for couple sec. to test, if it’s a alternator or something else, alternator charging. I ordered electronic regulator of the eBay that is made for older mopars Mopar Voltage Regulator - Electronic Solid State with Correct Restoration Look | eBay
I installed it today, ground looks good, battery was charged. I checked battery voltage before starting 13.10V started the car and voltage is 14.96-15.06V
Now I’m reading and some say it’s too high and will burn factory ammeter, is that so? Should I get different alternator or voltage regulator? Thank you
 
Voltage will not harm the ammeter. Too much load (Amps) could, but you are more likely to fry wires etc first.

15 volts is a bit high But not outrageous, 14.7 is a nominal charging voltage on a lot of systems.
 
So it’s ok if I drive for now while shopping for new one? I’m not driving at night time
 
15V is too high, 99% of the time this is NOT the VR at fault. Easy to test. EASY

1....You say battery is 13.1. Either the battery has a "surface charge" or your meter is wrong. Check your meter. Go to another vehicle known charged and check resting battery. Should be 12.6

2...There are two ways to determine what is wrong, sometimes both test methods help determine. Also, you must check GROUND circuit

2A......With key in "run" but engine stopped, stick one probe of your meter directly onto battery + post. Stick other probe onto the VR power (IGN) terminal. You should read a VERY low voltage the lower the better. Do this with all wiring normally connected. If you have a breaker points ignition, measure this with points CLOSED. To determine, measure coil+ voltage with key "in run." With points open, that reading will be "same as battery." With points closed, the reading will be much lower, 10-11V or a little less.

Anyhow the test reading, should be LOW less than say, .3V (3/10) of a volt

2A1........Second way to test this same situation is run engine at high idle with battery as closed to "normalized" as you can and WARMED UP. Check voltage from VR power/ IGN terminal to battery ground. If it shows about 14 (13.8--14.2) not below 13.5 and not above 14.4, VR is OK. Double check battery direct to ground and confirm that it is still HIGHER This shows VR is OK, voltage drop in the harness is cause

3.....CHECK GROUND Run engine at high idle, run this check first with all loads off, and again with lights, heater, etc running. Stab one probe of your meter into the battery NEG post. Stab other into the VR mounting flange. You should read almost nothing, again, the less the better, zero is perfect. ANY voltage here, .2V (2/10 or more) you need to improve grounding.
 
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Since the voltage measured 13.1 V before starting, first thing I'd do is recheck the meter readings.
Only time a battery should show over 12.8 Volts is right after being charged it will show a 'surface charge'.
Wait a few minutes or flip the lights on for a second and then it should show more accurately.

Next thing to do is check the voltage drop while running.
Measure:
Alternator output (positive) to ground.
Battery positve to ground.
Voltage regulator 'ignition', that is the feed wire, to ground.

If there is a difference of more than 1/2 volt, then start tracing the voltage drop.
Measure between:
the alternator output terminal (positive) and the firewall connector,
Then the firewall connector cavity in and out (ignition)
then to the ballast resitor connection, etc.

15.06 Volts is a little high but not terrible, depending on the temperature. If its 80 or 90 F then yes its over 1/2 volts out of spec. But if its 30 or 40 F its only a couple of tenths about spec.
 
If you run your lights, blower motor and anything else electrical you will lower the voltage because you are using more amperage.
I agree with RRR 15volts is not good but I will add it will not blow anything up and Chinese voltage regulators well... Napa has better as a suggestion. Search the inter web and you will find a lot of solid state units made in USA some with adjustable voltage selection.
13.7 to 14.2-14.5 volts is standard on most alternators as high voltage.
 
Another challenge... so my dart wasn’t charging, I got it with new alternator ( I called tech support and they said it’s 60 amp). It wasn’t charging, so I bypassed the voltage regulator for couple sec. to test, if it’s a alternator or something else, alternator charging. I ordered electronic regulator of the eBay that is made for older mopars Mopar Voltage Regulator - Electronic Solid State with Correct Restoration Look | eBay
I installed it today, ground looks good, battery was charged. I checked battery voltage before starting 13.10V started the car and voltage is 14.96-15.06V
Now I’m reading and some say it’s too high and will burn factory ammeter, is that so? Should I get different alternator or voltage regulator? Thank you
Mine has been charging that high for 2 years no problem. Eliminate your factory ammeter and get a voltmeter. Too many classic Mopars have gone up in flames because of the factory ammeter, get rid of it you will be better off. If your battery is not boiling off I would not worry about it.
 
upload_2019-10-31_22-31-7.png


Mine has been charging that high for 2 years no problem. Elimanate your factory ammeter and get a voltmeter. Too many classic Mopars have gone up in flames because of the factory ammeter, get rid of it you will be better off
Really haven't seen any evidence of that.
Seen a some problem ammeters. Seen some people blame ammeters when they did things like bypass the fusible link. Had some FS jeepers strand themselves when tried to follow an internet 'improved' ammeter delete.

And this has nothing to do with the meter showing higher voltage.
 
factory ammeter, is that so?
Most Plympouth/Dodge ammeters have "alternator" on the gage face.
That can be a little misleading.
These ammeters shows the amount of current going to or from the battery.
If the battery needs charging it will show current flowing to the battery until it is charged.
If the alternator can't supply the power, or enough power, the ammeter will show discharge.
That's it.
The meter shows up to 40 amps in either direction.
If you see it getting close to either extreme, there is problem. And if it pegs either way there is a Big problem.
 
13.5-14.5 has always been my rule of thumb. Chart shows I'm in the ball park.
I think in the 70s with the isolated field alternators and transistorized regulator they tightened up the spec. That might put your rule of thumb even closer.
 
I think my multimeter is bad... looks like it shows 14.4-14.8 charge ( which fails according to battery tester Lol )
 
IMHO it is the wiring / bulkhead connectors that cause the fires.
Actually it is also the ammeter depending on the year. The problem: The studs/ connections depend on nut tension to sandwich everything together, including insulating washers, the connection between the wire ends, the connection between the studs and shunt, the "guts" of the ammeter. Some cars have a plastic cluster housing, and ANY heating will soften the plastic and loosen the connections even more, causing MORE heating, the "snowball effect." The CLASSIC ammeter fail is pictures on the MAD electrical page, and "up here" back then when guys put winches and electric snowplow lift pumps in picks, THE CLASSIC fail was a melted ammeter, smoke from under the dash, and 'that plastic burning smell'

From MAD electrical

amp-ga19.jpg


I used to work HVAC, and a very common problem with electric forced air furnaces (used for heat and backup heat for heat pumps) is FAILURE OF THE 1/4" flag terminals, same ones as used in the bulkhead connector. In a furnace, these feed 5KW 240V heating elements, so nominal TWENTY AMP loading. That's all it takes to fail some of these connectors

Below is a typical old school electric furnace, chock full of 1/4" flag connectors.....the very same terminal as used in our Mopars except with a key to keep them in the plastic connector shell

furnace.jpg
 
View attachment 1715416806


Really haven't seen any evidence of that.
Seen a some problem ammeters. Seen some people blame ammeters when they did things like bypass the fusible link. Had some FS jeepers strand themselves when tried to follow an internet 'improved' ammeter delete.

And this has nothing to do with the meter showing higher voltage.
Best to research the fire issue before you disagree. There is plenty of information available that support the ammeter problem. Sorry it's just the truth.
 
Best to research the fire issue before you disagree. There is plenty of information available that support the ammeter problem. Sorry it's just the truth.
The whole truth.... There were thousands of amp meters, along with everything else, produced. After 30+ years, there isn't a part that we can't find failure reports on.
 
Best to research the fire issue before you disagree. There is plenty of information available that support the ammeter problem. Sorry it's just the truth.
You made the claim. And I asked you to support it.
Failures can be found. The one 67Dart273 shows is an example. Looks like a truck dash and probably had a plow hooked to the battery. It was probably seeing high loads for long periods of time.
Cars bursting into flames is what I asked about.
 
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My 68 has been running 15 volts since about 2000.... it makes for nice bright halogen headlights that I power up with relays triggered by the run circuit......... cuz up here it's the law. Well it is for cars that have DRLs; but I figure it's best not to give the cops a right-now reason to pull me over.
One time, it was up to 18 volts at idle with a "stuck" Electronic regulator. I was many miles from home. I just unplugged it, and replugged it, as needed, until I got home; then swapped in a different used one. I had several of them and I liked the 15volter, so that's what she got.(I think it's actually a tic over 15, but no biggie to me). I've seen lotsa Chevys run higher than that. Rule of thumb to me is she's gotta run 1.25, +/- .25v over battery rest voltage. I run a dry-cell technology Optima with a rest-voltage of about 13.2-13.5, so by my rule, she's on the high-side, but the Optima has no fluid in it to boil away........... so it's all good.
BTW, that Optima was ~14 years old before it could no longer hold it's charge over winter, parked outside, in the minus 35C temps. But it still works today, now ~18 years old. Expensive buy-in, but in the long-run; the cheapest darn battery I ever bought. Jus saying.
I know what the books say, but....... youknow .........there's books, and then there's real-world experience.If you have a vented lead-acid battery, that you never service; I guess long-term,the book-spec is best.

Oh yeah about that bulkhead connector; while my car was in the bodyshop, I, as most of you, had a year or more of time to kill, so one of the things I did was go thru my 30 year old wiring, including taking apart the bulkhead connector and meticulously cleaning it and "restoring" it. The car had not been driven since before 77, so it wasn't aged in that respect; I just wanted to be able to claim victory over it.
Well that lasted about a year,and then every time I turned the headlamps on, I would catch a whiff of hot plastic. Thinking the switch was the issue, I just turned them off. Shortly after, I was again about an hour from home and the hot plastic smell came up... with the headlights now off... Well, I had to do something fast. I'm a mechanic so I always have tools and an emergency kit on board, and a short time later we were moving again.
After I got home, I installed heavy-gauge jumpers thru the bulkhead, soldered,shrink-wrapped,and taped, and that was about year 2000. And, I never smelled melting plastic ever again. I highly recommend this remedy to all similarly equipped cars. For you guys that are averse to drilling your connector, think about this; if you smell hot plastic, chances are the ammeter wire is already drilling it's own hole thru there, and if it finds a ground, well, it's a 10 ga wire......... try hooking one across your battery posts and see what happens....
 
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