18" wheels

[67/6barracuda]

Did you have a question?

Just general discussing really. I think the rears will work out fine. I'm already looking at set of billet 20mm hub centric spacers. The front I'm a little more skeptical because of the larger and longer hub register. Is it easier to bore the rim, the rotor hub, or find some funky hub centric combination spacer that goes from 71.5mm or 70.5mm?

 

[roccodart440]

Just general discussing really. I think the rears will work out fine. I'm already looking at set of billet 20mm hub centric spacers. The front I'm a little more skeptical because of the larger and longer hub register. Is it easier to bore the rim, the rotor hub, or find some funky hub centric combination spacer that goes from 71.5mm or 70.5mm?

First of all, those wheels look great.

cutting the wheel or rotor is ok but it's a case by case basis. If you can run a spacer, that's the easiest route. Just get a quality spacer and hubcentric as you know is the best way to go.

This is where you want to buy your spacers from.

http://www.motorsport-tech.com

 

[72bluNblu]

Just general discussing really. I think the rears will work out fine. I'm already looking at set of billet 20mm hub centric spacers. The front I'm a little more skeptical because of the larger and longer hub register. Is it easier to bore the rim, the rotor hub, or find some funky hub centric combination spacer that goes from 71.5mm or 70.5mm?

I agree, depends on the wheels. I had the hub bores on my RPF1’s opened up, they started at 73mm but tapered down to where the cap mounted. So I had them opened up to 73mm all the way through. But not all rim designs lend themselves to that modification.

The hub register on the rotors can be turned down too. It just depends. On a stock rotor hub register you could knock off some diameter for sure, probably more than you’d think. On an aluminum hub like some of the aftermarket brakes use I wouldn’t want to take much of any off the hub.

 

[69wacuda]

Here's mine: 255/40r18. 18x8.5 w/ +35 BS. I'm going to need a spacer in the front because I rub on the inside tire when making turns. Hopefully not to thick though. I should have went with the +27 bs...

 

[MRGTX]

Here's mine: 255/40r18. 18x8.5 w/ +35 BS. I'm going to need a spacer in the front because I rub on the inside tire when making turns. Hopefully not to thick though. I should have went with the +27 bs...

View attachment 1715139309

Those look pretty sharp!! Awesome color too.

Unfortunately, I can't get past the missing side markers (that's a '69, no?) and the backwards decal! I get that the picture is flipped (no side mirror) but I can't fathom why.

 

[69wacuda]

Those look pretty sharp!! Awesome color too.

Unfortunately, I can't get past the missing side markers (that's a '69, no?) and the backwards decal! I get that the picture is flipped (no side mirror) but I can't fathom why.

Haha, you got me.

 

[69wacuda]

Im probably goimg to get flak for having it say 'cuda as well, but oh well...

 

[71_dart_swinger]

Just got 18x8 18x10 for mine. Got a fantastic deal on the set. Currently 275 45 rear. 275 40 front. I'm going to switch to a 305 35 and a 245 35 or 40.

 

[71_dart_swinger]

As the tires are new. I'm going to need to run a spacer until I can get a wider tire. It has a mini tub and usually has. 28x11.50 Hoosier

 

[71_dart_swinger]

So. Finally just about have the stance right. 10" wheels in back also with 1.25" spacer. Front 18x8. 235/45 18 front. Had to trim inner fender a tad. Disconnect the lower gender brace and pull fender a bit. No rubbing.

 

[67/6barracuda]

View attachment 1715153271 View attachment 1715153270 View attachment 1715153267 View attachment 1715153268 View attachment 1715153269 So. Finally just about have the stance right. 10" wheels in back also with 1.25" spacer. Front 18x8. 235/45 18 front. Had to trim inner fender a tad. Disconnect the lower gender brace and pull fender a bit. No rubbing.

View attachment 1715153271 View attachment 1715153270 View attachment 1715153267 View attachment 1715153268 View attachment 1715153269 So. Finally just about have the stance right. 10" wheels in back also with 1.25" spacer. Front 18x8. 235/45 18 front. Had to trim inner fender a tad. Disconnect the lower gender brace and pull fender a bit. No rubbing.

View attachment 1715153271 View attachment 1715153270 View attachment 1715153267 View attachment 1715153268 View attachment 1715153269 So. Finally just about have the stance right. 10" wheels in back also with 1.25" spacer. Front 18x8. 235/45 18 front. Had to trim inner fender a tad. Disconnect the lower gender brace and pull fender a bit. No rubbing.

Your stance looks great. Bigger wider wheels are really growing on me. My rear 18x9's with a 285/35 fit nice with the 20mm spacer. However, I'm having issues with the front hub. Cobra R's have a 70.5mm hub, the hub register is something like 71.67mm on the rotor. I went to 5 different machines shops and only one has the means to turn the hub register down to 70.5mm and wants 150 dollars to attempt it. Do you have spacers on the front? What other solutions are there? I could have the rim hollowed out but the rims couldn't be rotated or sold as hub centric. I'm thinking of buying another set of 70.5mm spacers and seeing if i can have the spacer machined out the back to 71+mm while maintaining the front 70.5mm register on front.

 

[67autocross]

Cut the front rotors down to fit the wheels

 

[71_dart_swinger]

Your stance looks great. Bigger wider wheels are really growing on me. My rear 18x9's with a 285/35 fit nice with the 20mm spacer. However, I'm having issues with the front hub. Cobra R's have a 70.5mm hub, the hub register is something like 71.67mm on the rotor. I went to 5 different machines shops and only one has the means to turn the hub register down to 70.5mm and wants 150 dollars to attempt it. Do you have spacers on the front? What other solutions are there? I could have the rim hollowed out but the rims couldn't be rotated or sold as hub centric. I'm thinking of buying another set of 70.5mm spacers and seeing if i can have the spacer machined out the back to 71+mm while maintaining the front 70.5mm register on front.

No spacer on front. I didn't measure I eyeballed the front inner fender with the lip. I trimmed off the lip about 3.5 " from the bottom and disconnected the bracket lower brace. pulled finder a bit and it cleared. Can't tell I did anything. It might be a bit blasphemous but I just rolled the fenders a bit aswell. I'll show a more detailed picture tomorow. I'm going to put a 305 here pretty quick in the back

 

[71_dart_swinger]

Your stance looks great. Bigger wider wheels are really growing on me. My rear 18x9's with a 285/35 fit nice with the 20mm spacer. However, I'm having issues with the front hub. Cobra R's have a 70.5mm hub, the hub register is something like 71.67mm on the rotor. I went to 5 different machines shops and only one has the means to turn the hub register down to 70.5mm and wants 150 dollars to attempt it. Do you have spacers on the front? What other solutions are there? I could have the rim hollowed out but the rims couldn't be rotated or sold as hub centric. I'm thinking of buying another set of 70.5mm spacers and seeing if i can have the spacer machined out the back to 71+mm while maintaining the front 70.5mm register on front.

I'd imagine the time spent and investment spent. Find a set of knock off cobra wheels with a better offset. Look around on cl for xxr, Rota, ext. some of the cheaper knock offs come with a bunch of different offsets. Might have to open center of wheel to accommodate the spindle nut cap

 

[pauly v.100]

Cut the front rotors down to fit the wheels

This!
i had my rotor snout shaved for cheap.

 

[72bluNblu]

A lot of aftermarket rims have a 73.1mm hub bore. Or at least they start out at that, and then will taper down to a smaller wheel cap. The Ford Bullit's, and some of the rims made specifically for the Mustang's, are only 70.5. The problem is that the mopar hubs are a lot taller than most modern cars. Meaning, on a lot of modern rims, the mopar hub will stick out past the front surface of the rim.

If you have wheel clearance to the fender, you can run a small spacer if that will help. Just depends on how much tire clearance you have. If you don't need much room to clear the rim, that could help a lot. And a small spacer won't hurt a thing as long as your wheel studs are long enough.

Even my Enkei RPF1's had issues, and they have a 73.1mm hub bore. That's what's listed as the hub bore spec. But, the wheel cap on the front side of the rim is only 64mm. So, even though my Dr. Diff hubs are only 68.5mm, the hub has to pass completely through the rim because the wheel itself is pretty thin (lightweight wheels). So I had the hub bores on my RPF1's machined. I run different width wheels front and rear so I wasn't going to rotate wheels/tires anyway, they already weren't hub-centric, and I didn't want to take any more material off of my aluminum hubs. I just made it 73mm all the way through, so it was an even surface. It was only $80 a wheel at my machinist. But then I had to do some custom work to fit a set of wheel caps. So on some wheels, even if the hub bore spec is 71mm or larger it doesn't necessarily mean the rims will fit without having some work done on the hub bore, because a lot of them taper down. It just depends on the design of the rim. The Legend 5's I run on my Challenger have a huge hub bore, but it wouldn't matter because the rims are thick in the center, the hub is still well within the wheel and the grease cap doesn't stick out. With the enkei's the hub itself actually comes out past the face of the rim.

And you can see the machine work I had done here. Left side is machined, right side is off the shelf.

And my custom made wheel caps. I cut the end off a "pull through" metal wheel cap to make it the same diameter as the wheel cap I was using in the back, just far enough out to clear everything. And then I epoxied the wheel cap in and painted the pull through cap to match the wheel.

 

[Furious65]

Really digging the 18's on our A-body cars. Since my '68 Barracuda really isn't a collectable one I have been thinking about making it just a great road going car. However, I'm still not a fan of some of the new style rims.

I really like the old school look but I also like modern handling. Which brings me to my question, does anyone make an 18" steel Mopar wheel that accepts a factory dog dish hubcap?

 

[abodyjoe]

Yes there is a company that can do it. Bill at RMS put a set in his blue 69 dart. Csnt remember the name of the place. They are something like $400-600 dollars a piece though. Customs wheels. They are alumn and they will make them any backspace ya want and will machine the center to fit a factory dog dish.

Look at my post a few pages back.

 

[Furious65]

Bummer. Wasn't looking to spend that much coin. Was hoping there was an affordable steel wheel option. Oh well!

 

[abodyjoe]

Maybe there is a steel wheel option but I don’t know of one. Probably be heavy though.

 

[71_dart_swinger]

Updated. Lowered the rear 1". And no more side exhaust.

 

[abodyjoe]

much better

 

[67/6barracuda]

much better

Looks great!!!!... I need to do the same to mine. I shouldn't have got the the +1" epso springs. Standard or even -1" would have been better. I might go with more tire to fill that air gap its a 285/35/18 right now. I think a 285/45/18 would look better. I got the "Most Ugly" award again, 2nd yr in a row at local car show. good times... Man that rear quarter is so bad. On another note I was able to get the fronts on without spacers and no rubbing or cutting. I bought a new dremel and I was lucky that the rim was designed with just a small ridge for the hub register. I just knocked that down with a few cartridge rolls and rims fit right on. The fronts are 245/40/18. No bad for $200.00 rims.

 

[71_dart_swinger]

I like it. The cobra wheels look good on it. I almost got a coupe 69 barracuda instead of my dart. It was almost a coin toss. Definitely one of my top 3. Ya. You look like you could definitely run a bit wider if a tire on there

 

[rich_mc]

I realize I'm digging an old thread up, but there's some great info here... wanted to see if anyone could shoot holes in my thoughts?

I've got a 76 Scamp currently with 10" drums and a 7.25 rear end. I just bought used some OEM disc spindles. Also just ordered a ton of suspension components to rebuild the front (tubular UCA's, rebuild kit for LCA's, sway bar, adjustable strut rods, new torsion bars, and about every rod end and bushing imaginable)... also have the Wilwood Dynalite Big Brake kit on its way.

The car currently has SBP but I'll be swapping the front to LBP with the Wilwood kit. For the rear, I anticipate pulling my axles and drums and running them up to the machine shop to have the LBP added to them.

But now I've gotta figure out wheels/tires... I'm leaning toward this set of 18x8 with 4.5" backspace...American Racing 51088012400: VN510 Draft Series Vintage Silver Wheel 18" x 8" - JEGS High Performance. my point of concern is that the car currently has the SBP 14x5.5 rallys on it (they appear to be about 3.5" backspace) and I've had a time or two where I've been backing out of the garage at full lock (kinda uphill) and heard the front tire scrape I believe the top of the fender lip...

If I'm doing the math right, the new wheels would be 2.5" wider than my existing ones. 1" of that would be to the inside (difference between 3.5 and 4.5 backspace) and the remaining 1.5" would be to the outside, which theoretically would make my steering lock/tire scrape issue worse... however, I also tend to think the lower profile tires probably don't bulge out as much beyond the width of the wheel as the current 14" (215/70/14) ones do, so maybe it will be less than 1.5" closer once it's up to the outer diameter of the tire? Sound right, or am I completely off base?