Scat
Well-Known Member
18x9 with +35 offset
18's with 275s on a Duster
- Thread starter Scat
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Same as mine, 18x9 +35. Although my 13” cobra kit widens the track a little so it’s more like +30 if you’re comparing it to 73+ mopar disks.
Scat
Well-Known Member
Well got some work to do now.
72smallairparticler
Well-Known Member
Scat how'd it all turn out? You have a build page anywhere? 
We’ll, here goes. Instead of starting a new thread I will tag onto this one in hopes that @Scat will show back up. His wheels are close to what I’m thinking about doing.
I have a set of Forgeline 18x9 and 18x10’s.
I have measured the backspace with a straight edge on the rim measuring to the WMS. 9’s are -12 and 10’s are 0
I’m using the conversion chart to get the offset.
I had the wheels for a project that went south. I have the complete suspension that I put together for that car (SPC Gen 1 UCA, strapped LCA, QA1 adj. strut rods…). The brakes are Viper from the Dr.
The car is painted but if I decide to use this suspension and wheel set on my Duster I will commit to the pie cut behind the front wheel opening and purchase a roller and heat gun. Also, reverse tub.
One good thing with the wheels is their 3 -piece so if I need to make them a different size it is a possibility.
I might try to get may hands on a Percy’s wheel right and a roller pretty soon.
I have a set of Forgeline 18x9 and 18x10’s.
I have measured the backspace with a straight edge on the rim measuring to the WMS. 9’s are -12 and 10’s are 0
I’m using the conversion chart to get the offset.
I had the wheels for a project that went south. I have the complete suspension that I put together for that car (SPC Gen 1 UCA, strapped LCA, QA1 adj. strut rods…). The brakes are Viper from the Dr.
The car is painted but if I decide to use this suspension and wheel set on my Duster I will commit to the pie cut behind the front wheel opening and purchase a roller and heat gun. Also, reverse tub.
One good thing with the wheels is their 3 -piece so if I need to make them a different size it is a possibility.
I might try to get may hands on a Percy’s wheel right and a roller pretty soon.
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18x9 -12 offset for the front? So an 18x9 with a 4.5” backspace?
I really don’t see that working. I have that Viper brake kit up front with SPC genI UCA’s, running 18x9’s with a +35mm offset. So that would mean your 18x9’s would be 47 mm further out than mine, or 1.85”. I rolled my fenders to clear my 275/35/18’s. Granted my car is pretty lowered, but that doesn’t cost me 2” of clearance.
I’ve been surprised before, @Craig Burriss put a set of 18x9.5, +12 wheels on his Duster with 285’s. But his fenders have the bottom corners cut back due to rust and he pushed the opening out with turnbuckles. And those 18x9 -12’s would still move the outer lip about 3/4” out from Craig’s.
If those are the 3 piece Forgelines I’d swap sections out and try to get into the +30 or 6” backspace ballpark for the 18x9’s up front.
In the back the 18x10, +0’s are doable. It’ll depend on your set up of course, but with an A-body 8 3/4 and BBP axles even with the stock spring locations and say a rear disk brake kit you’d be pretty close to where you needed to be.
Correction: The 18x10 backspace is 5.75” backspace. I measured with the wheel n a different position so I could see the tape better.
The lengths I’m willing to go on this semi-freshly painted car is:
Roll fenders, lengthen fender support rods, and cut the pie cut like @Craig Burriss . I have touch up paint to airbrush over the weld.
In the rear, I have an an 8.25 now but also have a 68-70 8.75 housing w/ a 489 core.
A previous owner had put an MP leaf spring relocation on it and reverse tubbed it. The man I bought the car from had the reverse tubs “fixed”. In regards to the springs. I could easily swap back.
I have 90% of the parts on hand to do this. I need a driveshaft, a rear-end build (?), wheelwright, heat gun, and a roller.
I measured with the wheel face up, from the ground to the wheel mounting surface. Is this the correct method for a b.s. measurement?
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DionR
Well-Known Member
Is this for your '73?
Maybe?!?! Hehe.
For the last month, putting the first 1500 miles on it was fun. This is a very nice car for someone who wants a car that represents a good numbers matching car. That’s not my style. I like to make a car in my own vision.
I had been having a desire to get a different car to put all this stuff I already have on (1971 Duster, 1969 Barracuda..).
I’m just going to do with it what I want , which already fits that car. Nothing, other than the brake kit, prevents it from looking original with a simple brake and wheel change.
My vision for Arthur’s Duster was always a Day 2 build. The Direct Connection spoilers and lookalikes would have been period correct. You could totally still drive this car to a show and enter it in the original class if you swapped back to the rallyes but that would be a future owners decision.
DionR
Well-Known Member
I've struggle with the exact same dilemma with my '74 Duster, being an original 360 4 speed car it is a pretty low number car. But I don't really like driving a stock Duster, 360 or not, so I am always wanting more and/or bigger. Within reason, I just want it to drive better than stock. At the same time, the low numbers they manufactured, plus having the original motor, has made it difficult for me to cut it up for the 6 speed I've always wanted. But last year about this time I decided that "resale value" is only important if I was going to sell it, so I bought a T56 kit and planned to cut the floor out of it this winter.
But now things have changed (again) as I have been presented with a '73 Duster that is mostly solid and has no history (to me) and isn't anything special since it is a /6 auto car. So now I am going to put the G3/T56 in that, and build it past where my '74 is, while I leave that car alone other than just fixing some things. This gives me a car I can drive next summer while I wrench on the '73 and I can leave the '74 mostly alone and easy to return to "stock" if need be.
Stock or mostly stock never appealed to me much. My Duster was someone else’s project and he started going down that road so I finished it like he would’ve (maybe out of respect?).
Now, I will keep it numbers matching and keep the brakes and the Rallye wheels in the shed.
Yep, just wanted to make sure. I measured from the lip of the inside rim to the WMS . I get 4.5" BS on the 18x9. I have the same 14" brake kit that 72Blu has so I can just copy his spec. I might just take it to a wheel specialist and have them configure them to that offset. I would like to watch so I could do it myself in the future but it's a critical piece of safety and I'm sure there is a method to changing wheel hoops out. I was overthinking it. 18x9 has already been done and I just have to follow suit with the known offset.
For the rear 18x10, I made a mistake initially and measured the bs at 6 but I redid it in better light and a straighter edge and it's 5.75" b.s. It can work out because I have a 68-70 B-body 8.75 I can cut to A-body width. I will use Dr. Diff's 11.7" kit and use the 1/2" spring relocation shackles and bracket on the 8.75 build. This combination of housing, brakes, and spring location allow my 18X10 +6 to work.
DionR
Well-Known Member
I like it.
I just realized that is almost exactly how my '74 is right now. I've upgraded the suspension and brakes, but nothing that can't be unbolted. And I am running the numbers matching LA, too.
It really is a nice middle ground. Drives and handles well, but not completely modern either.
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