1964 - 1966 Barracuda starter removal and installation advice

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Glenguy

Glenguy

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For those who own or will own the early Barracudas with the 273 engine, I want to share my own experience and give advice on the starter removal and installation. Those suckers are extremely difficult to remove because they are caged in between the torsion bar and and exhaust. After a bit of help from friends and family, it was concluded that the exhaust had to be unbolted AND the left motor mount unbolted and the engine jacked up on the left side. Once you do that, you can get to the top nut much easier at the top of the engine with a 5/8 deep socket and an extension. You can jack up under the oil pan, but just make sure you have a piece of wood under it to cushion it. That might seem like a big job just to remove a starter, but it is a reality. I just wanted to share that to save some of you the anxiety of wondering how to get the darn thing out.
 
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They are a turd. I put a late model Dakota starter in mine. Much easier. If I remember right, one of the bolts (upper I think) I reached with a long extension(2 foot) over the top of the starter. The ratchet was out by the battery box. LOL
 
Good to know.
Will be purchasing a dakota starter for sure.
 
toolmanmike said:
They are a turd. I put a late model Dakota starter in mine. Much easier. If I remember right, one of the bolts (upper I think) I reached with a long extension(2 foot) over the top of the starter. The ratchet was out by the battery box. LOL
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I assume the Dakota has a small starter.
 
toolmanmike said:
Yes, a permanent magnet starter. There are quite a lot of threads here about them.
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Hmmm, if I had know that, I would have opted for one. Oh well, my new starter is one of those clunky old style ones, but it's brand new and good to go for a long time.
 
Glenguy said:
Hmmm, if I had know that, I would have opted for one. Oh well, my new starter is one of those clunky old style ones, but it's brand new and good to go for a long time.
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I hope so, bud. Some of the auto parts rebuilt ones go bad right out of the box. For future reference, I say the mini starter from a Dakota is the way to go. I have one in a couple of my cars, and they are a very nice upgrade. Thanks for the tips tho, they will come in handy!
 
cosgig said:
I hope so, bud. Some of the auto parts rebuilt ones go bad right out of the box. For future reference, I say the mini starter from a Dakota is the way to go. I have one in a couple of my cars, and they are a very nice upgrade. Thanks for the tips tho, they will come in handy!
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Thanks for the heads up on the rebuilt. I might snag a Dakota one as a spare.
 
toolmanmike said:
They are a turd. I put a late model Dakota starter in mine. Much easier. If I remember right, one of the bolts (upper I think) I reached with a long extension(2 foot) over the top of the starter. The ratchet was out by the battery box. LOL
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Just so I know, how late model should it be in case I need one?
 
Glenguy said:
Just so I know, how late model should it be in case I need one?
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I bought a 96 v6 starter for my 66 273. It has been in 10 years so far.
 
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The mini starters are all the same, but be sure you ask for one from a vehicle with a 3.9 V6, or a 5.2 or 5.9 V8. Starters for a Dakota with a 3.7 V6 or 4.7 V8 are way different and won't work. The adapter for the wires can be removed and the wires bolted straight to the starter if need be. Sometimes that adapter puts the wires in the way of something else. The mini starters sure will zing a motor over for sure!
 
JDMopar said:
The mini starters are all the same, but be sure you ask for one from a vehicle with a 3.9 V6, or a 5.2 or 5.9 V8. Starters for a Dakota with a 3.7 V6 or 4.7 V8 are way different and won't work. The adapter for the wires can be removed and the wires bolted straight to the starter if need be. Sometimes that adapter puts the wires in the way of something else. The mini starters sure will zing a motor over for sure!
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Good info. Thanks!
 
If I remember correctly you have to turn the steering all the way one way or the other. Then the starter drops out without removing any parts. Not saying it's easy to get to the bolts, but don't have to unbolt the other stuff. Ditto on the Dakota starter. Only way to go.
 
It’s been a few years since I have done the starter, but I agree with Hyper_Pak above. You turn the steering wheel one way while it’s on jackstands and drop it down partway, then you turn it the other way and drop it down the rest of the way.
 
I recently put a mini-starter in my 1965 Chrysler w/ 383. I had earlier put one in my 1965 Dart w/ 273 and recalled no problem. I had a few around, some from junkyard 1980's Dodge trucks w/ Magnum V-8 and some rebuilt off ebay. It has been a month, but I recall at least one starter wouldn't quite bolt-up since it hit the block from a stand-off on the electrical connectors, so watch close. I recall I removed the standoff so it fit, though might have switched to another starter. A bit scary that the big BAT+ terminal sits only 1/8" from the block, so if a nut fell down between them - welding torch!. I don't remember that issue on the 273. I wouldn't fool with the OE starter on either V-8. I recall that getting it out on my 273 required getting the Pitman arm and linkage in just the right place, and the beast is heavy. I can use up my OE starters in my slant engine where a starter swap is real easy. BTW, the Magnum V-6 starters are the same. You find those engines in the earliest Dakotas and vans. The Jeep GC uses the Magnum V-8 but has a different starter.
 
there are 2 different spec RAM style starters. One is rated higher than the other (1.4Kw base) with an extended motor section. Both will bolt in. Saw the comparison years ago somewhere and now I cant find it Its obvious when looking at the 2 side by sie, one is about an inch longer in the motor section. Those are some powerful starters, 3600 rpm no load. Big block ready!
 
I still say it's best to remove the left engine mount and jack up the engine, that will make the top nut easier to get at, and the starter will drop out easier.
 
I see several mentions of the top "nut". Is the stud on the top and the bolt on the bottom? If so, I have begun to assemble things backwards again (as usual)? Thank you.
 
I'd remove the stud and then go with the dust shield. I haven't installed my dust shield yet but I'm getting close to it!
 
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