1964 Dart Grüne Hölle Road Course/Track Day/AutoX Project

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7-15-22:

I went to the bike trail... had an hour between dentist appointment and daycare pickup so ..toss the bike on the 'ol dart..
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Then out to Canfield Ohio yesterday to pick up a sand blaster..
Copilot approved...
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At carlisle For a few days.. Fun stuff.
The drive over the mountains to Carlisle... Adds 1 Hour to the drive time, but is more inspiring in Grüne Hölle than on the interstate.
PA Routes 164,994,641 feature epic twisties to get to the cumberland valley.

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7-15-22:

I went to the bike trail... had an hour between dentist appointment and daycare pickup so ..toss the bike on the 'ol dart..
View attachment 1715956137

Then out to Canfield Ohio yesterday to pick up a sand blaster..
Copilot approved...
View attachment 1715956138
View attachment 1715956139

At carlisle For a few days.. Fun stuff.
The drive over the mountains to Carlisle... Adds 1 Hour to the drive time, but is more inspiring in Grüne Hölle than on the interstate.
PA Routes 164,994,641 feature epic twisties to get to the cumberland valley.

View attachment 1715956140
View attachment 1715956141
View attachment 1715956142View attachment 1715956143
The copilot is precious! I know she's havin a blast with her daddy.
 
What does the "6 CAM" mean on the side?
 
What does the "6 CAM" mean on the side?


That is for SCCA autox.
6 is the car #... it can be anything you pick.
CAM is the class.. It should be CAM-T, but I took the T off... stickers were supposed to be removable, but they don't come off correctly so I left the rest on the car.
 
8/8/22:

Car is out of commission for a while as I was Not happy with clutch actuation / pedal feel while I had the car at Carlisle in the middle of last month.

I returned from Carlisle (180 Miles from me) and took the interstate so that I could just put the thing in 5th gear and not use the clutch pedal for the better part of a 3 hour drive.

I made it home successfully without the use tow truck or a flatbed.

I first suspected a Linkage /Z Bar failure beginning to happen.
Took all of those apart inspected everything, Fork arm, Linkages, Z bar etc. Could Not find anything amiss, so I reinforced the Body /Frame Rail Ball Stud Pivot.

Put it all back together and adjusted up the clutch - It was worse!!..This is crazy, so the Transmission had to come out for some inspection.
My next suspicion was a broken Input Bearing retainer /TOB Support -Known to break on the T-5's
I ordered up a steel one.

Got the trans pulled out and found the culprit to be a broken finger on the Pressure Plate.
I will rebuild the Pressure Plate myself. I have about 7 Core /Stockish 9 1/4" Borg and Beck Slant 6 Pressure Plates in stock from various cars and Projects.
I wanted to keep the pressure of this one and found some interesting variations, which I will share elsewhere.

Broken Clutch Fingers do not allow shifting to occur: :shock: :( :(
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Also found Stress Cracks on the other 2 fingers: :( :( :shock:
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Hot Rodders seem to keep parts around for that time of need..
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Found that some Borg&Beck PP's have Solid Fingers, while others are slotted:
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The one I am working with had the Spring Pressures and Other Trick Parts setup By McLeod Back in the Day. This would be a long gone Part #/ Application that would be difficult to get again, Since the ownership Change in 2008.

I found that the Pressure Ring is thicker than the stock replacement PP as well as utilizing Larger 7/16"-20 Clutch Eye Bolts (like in the V8 Borg & Beck Pressure Plate) vs the Standard 9 1/4" Pressure Plate which uses 3/8" eyebolts and Nuts to set finger height.

3/8" eyebolts on the Left, whilst 7/16" eyebolts on the right.
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The ones I had to take out were pretty crunchy as the rebuilder had welded the fingers to the adjustment net to keep the finger heights from changing, like this:
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So I had to really Grind a bunch of material off to get the nuts loose to disassemble the pressure plate from the cage.
Usually they are peened over to keep the adjustment, But I suppose that cann come loose over time.
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I called Kentucky Clutch and they had spares of the 7/16"-20 Eyebolts and Nuts (shared with V-8's) to sell me. - The 3/8" ones are no longer in production, from what the gentleman on the phone had told me.

The Larger 7/16"-20 Eybolts and lever height adjustment nuts can also be found on the Slant 6 10" Pressure Plates - Listed for the Truck Application.
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Getting things cleaned up while I am waiting on the Parts to arrive:
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Greg
 
Sorry to hear about your clutch problems. I have been following your build and I saw your car at Carlisle. Glad you made it back home OK.

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Very cool though that you are doing all this yourself. I forget and I'm sorry if I've asked this before....what clutch disc are you using?
 
Very cool though that you are doing all this yourself. I forget and I'm sorry if I've asked this before....what clutch disc are you using?

Disc is an unknown Old McLeod Part from the late 90's/2000's I bought it second hand. I had it Refaced maybe 3 years ago By Falcon Clutch in Deer Park, New York. He was able to get the Same exact Facings that McLeod Put on there originally.

Here is a More thorough write up and comparison that I did on the Pressure Plates..
 
8/16/22:

Last Week the Clutch Eyebolts Arrived in 2 days From Kentucky Clutch:
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I hand Surfaced the Pressure Ring with a Diamond Stone as it was Not wrecked enough After say 8000 miles to warrant sending out to be blanchard ground.

The parts allowed me to put the pressure plate all back together, hopefully the Fingers will not fatigue, or crack etc. (fingers crossed) if It happens again I have one of the "Spec" Brand Fiero diaphragm Pressure Plates to try next, as they are a direct bolt in / replacement for a 9" slant 6 Borg and Beck Finger / Spring Style Pressure Plate.

Pressure Plate Reassembly:
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Every gearhead's household basement should have a 20 Ton Press next to the water heater, makes those pesky bearing and seal jobs at 1AM oh so convenient. :D :D
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Push it all together with a somewhat close to proper thickness clutch disc, set the finger height, lock down or weld the nuts for the clutch eyebolts... call it good to go.
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While I had the Pressure Plate and clutch disc removed from the flywheel I found the input bearing adapter to have dislodged from the back of the crank - I knew It was a light Press fit, but it was too light.
Fortunately It did not do any real damage, just was not supporting the input shaft correctly and was running against the clutch disc. I put it back in the proper place and used some Red Loctite 242 to hopefully hold it in place properly.

I figured this was a good time to make the switch to a hydraulic throwout bearing and get rid of the bulky clutch linkage, Z bar, clutch fork and other associated rods. I had already spent some considerable time reengineering the linkage and reinforcing the Z bar and other parts of the linkage to make it Skookum as Frig, but I was unhappy with how much flex there was in the dash with the clutch pedal pressed down, hopefully this will be better.

Because the Transmission is T5/Ford Parts are readily available and ubiquitous.. Not Something I am accustomed to with Slant 6's and Early Non B/E Body Mopars.
Hydraulic TOB - I used A Tilton 60-6104 - Literature says it's for a Diaphragm Pressure Plate, But it seems to work fine with the 3 Finger one as well. It has a little "finger stick" that replaces one of the input bearing retainer bolts.. this stick is used to keep the bearing body from spinning, some of the hydro TOB's I investigated just used the supply and feed lines for the anti rotation. - This method seemed like a better engineered idea to me.
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I am actuating it with a Wilwood GS Compact Master Cylinder 260-15098. They make these in a variety of bore sizes and intergal as well as remote reservoir versions.
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Made up some quick mounts and firewall reinforcement plates from scrap metal.
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To get somewhat decent geometry to actuate the new clutch master I welded another actuator "nub" on the clutch pedal below the original one. If I ever need to revert back to the linkage and rod system I could do so without much trouble.
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I had a helper at the shop help with a bit of the install.
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Done, with a pedal stop added on the floor.
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Clutch cylinder tucks in nicely next to the brake master, with just enough room to spin the cap off for fluid checks and fill.
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8/16/22 Continued:

Since I had the Car on the Lift and the Trans out to Rebuild the Pressure Plate, I also Accomplished a few other things on my to do list for the car:

- Install the new Polyurethane Motor Mounts from www.polybushings.com
Old Mount on Right, Poly on Left. - The old Rubber Style Mount Was A Recent Parts store Replacement and Was already Moving around a bit.
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- Swap to a new steering box - front header needs to be removed to do this swap, and since it was out for the motor mount swap already, it made sense to do it now.
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- And lastly, fix the god forsaken '60-'66 Mopar A Body Fuel Cap / Filler Neck Issue.
The left quarter panel on my car **had** nice paint on it until April 2022 when I took it to CMP, there it's a clockwise flow to the track layout meaning lots of repeated long / hard right turns.. Well on those right hand turns the gas sloshes back up the filler neck quite a bit, it ends up coming out of top of the filler neck and the cap can't hold it back, so it ate my paint away.
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I have been thinking of a solution for a while, tried better / more / thicker gaskets on the cap, that failed, thought about relocating the filler inside the trunk, then I came up with this...
Get some 1.75" Inside Ø Fuel Hose... Continental 59211 will work..
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And a 1 1/2" Ball Valve with 1 1/2" x 3" Pipe Nipples threaded on both ends.
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Cut out the appropriate amount of fuel filler neck:
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Replace the Removed section with the valve.
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Close valve for track day, AutoX, or spirited mountain driving.
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' Till Next Time!
 
What about fuel tank venting?
Yes good catch.
I will have to add a section of vent tube that goes back before the valve. For now I am just keeping the valve not closed all of the way so the vent will still function.
 
Looking at the pictures above, I am interested in your brake plumbing. I have purchased the same master, and I am switching to front disc brakes from a single master four wheel drum system, so I have to redo the plumbing. It looks like you are using an adjustable proportioning valve and a combination valve? Are you running the rear line directly and just using the combination valve to split the front lines?
 
8/16/22 Continued:

Since I had the Car on the Lift and the Trans out to Rebuild the Pressure Plate, I also Accomplished a few other things on my to do list for the car:

- Install the new Polyurethane Motor Mounts from www.polybushings.com
Old Mount on Right, Poly on Left. - The old Rubber Style Mount Was A Recent Parts store Replacement and Was already Moving around a bit.
View attachment 1715971594

- Swap to a new steering box - front header needs to be removed to do this swap, and since it was out for the motor mount swap already, it made sense to do it now.
View attachment 1715971595
View attachment 1715971596

- And lastly, fix the god forsaken '60-'66 Mopar A Body Fuel Cap / Filler Neck Issue.
The left quarter panel on my car **had** nice paint on it until April 2022 when I took it to CMP, there it's a clockwise flow to the track layout meaning lots of repeated long / hard right turns.. Well on those right hand turns the gas sloshes back up the filler neck quite a bit, it ends up coming out of top of the filler neck and the cap can't hold it back, so it ate my paint away.
View attachment 1715971597

I have been thinking of a solution for a while, tried better / more / thicker gaskets on the cap, that failed, thought about relocating the filler inside the trunk, then I came up with this...
Get some 1.75" Inside Ø Fuel Hose... Continental 59211 will work..
View attachment 1715971598
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And a 1 1/2" Ball Valve with 1 1/2" x 3" Pipe Nipples threaded on both ends.
View attachment 1715971600

Cut out the appropriate amount of fuel filler neck:
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Replace the Removed section with the valve.
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Close valve for track day, AutoX, or spirited mountain driving.
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' Till Next Time!
That's just genius.
 
You might be interested in this or you may already know, I don't know, BUT I've found a pressure plate and clutch disc in 10" diameter that will work with the T5 swap. That's what I plan to use. The pressure plate comes either way, borg and beck or diaphragm. I decided to get the borg and beck, as they are supposedly stronger. Anyway, they both for the stock 122 tooth slant 6 flywheel, as the pressure plate uses scalloped bolt attachment points.
 
You might be interested in this or you may already know, I don't know, BUT I've found a pressure plate and clutch disc in 10" diameter that will work with the T5 swap. That's what I plan to use. The pressure plate comes either way, borg and beck or diaphragm. I decided to get the borg and beck, as they are supposedly stronger. Anyway, they both for the stock 122 tooth slant 6 flywheel, as the pressure plate uses scalloped bolt attachment points.

Yes I found those too. It seems they are listed in the valeo catalog for the 273, and they will swap to the slant 6 flywheel also. They will interchange, not sure on the plate pressure, but it should be a low fuss swap.

Sometimes with a linkage clutch and clutch fork on the diaphragm pressure plate the fork pivot may need to be shimmed 1/4" to 1/2" closer to the engine. Otherwise its very easy.
 
Yes I found those too. It seems they are listed in the valeo catalog for the 273, and they will swap to the slant 6 flywheel also. They will interchange, not sure on the plate pressure, but it should be a low fuss swap.

Sometimes with a linkage clutch and clutch fork on the diaphragm pressure plate the fork pivot may need to be shimmed 1/4" to 1/2" closer to the engine. Otherwise its very easy.
Thanks! I figured with all the research you had done, that you had found those. I just wanted to make sure. I think any extra diameter with the clutch will help!
 
Thanks! I figured with all the research you had done, that you had found those. I just wanted to make sure. I think any extra diameter with the clutch will help!

My other slant 6 cars run a 10" mazda / ford diaphgram pressure plate. It was not a direct bolt in however, they have custom flywheels... but they are heavy and steel, unlike this car that has the aluminum flyweel and the lighter pressure plate. All good things for road racing
 
My other slant 6 cars run a 10" mazda / ford diaphgram pressure plate. It was not a direct bolt in however, they have custom flywheels... but they are heavy and steel, unlike this car that has the aluminum flyweel and the lighter pressure plate. All good things for road racing
It's just an awesome car, Greg and I totally appreciate you sharing it with us here. Thank you!
 
It's just an awesome car, Greg and I totally appreciate you sharing it with us here. Thank you!
Well thanks for the kind words.
Back in the day I used to get asked a lot when I was going to put a v-8 in?
Not so much any more.

I am glad you appreciate it.

I tend to do things differently from the crowd.

:thumbsup:
 
Looking at the pictures above, I am interested in your brake plumbing. I have purchased the same master, and I am switching to front disc brakes from a single master four wheel drum system, so I have to redo the plumbing. It looks like you are using an adjustable proportioning valve and a combination valve? Are you running the rear line directly and just using the combination valve to split the front lines?

Yes I am using a factory style Proportioning valve, i am not sure if it's actually considered a combination valve... I would have to go back and study the many Richard Ehernberg articles on that one to be sure of the correct vocabulary.

I removed the t from the old single pot system that was on the driver's frame rail.
The brass prop valve gets plumbed in as any typical one would. Yes it splits the front brakes for LF/RF.

The rear outlet goes into the adjustable Prop. Valve and then the output of the adjustable Prop valve goes to the existing rear brake line.

I am not 100% sure that's the best / most correct way to do it. It works fine for me and has hauled the car down from 100 mph on the straights at CMP in April 2022 so I would say its safe and functional.
 
Thanks. I was planning on running the rear brakes through the adjustable prortioning valve and straight to the rear brake line like you did. For the fronts I was just going to run a line into the factory block on the frame rail and plug the old rear port. That way I don't need to make up new front lines. Sound reasonable?

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Well thanks for the kind words.
Back in the day I used to get asked a lot when I was going to put a v-8 in?
Not so much any more.

I am glad you appreciate it.

I tend to do things differently from the crowd.

:thumbsup:
I have a fresh 300 5 feet away from the car in the shop. It was my intention to swap it in. I wouldn't do it now for a mollion dollars.
 
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