1964 Valiant "Get Runnin & Drivin"

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Got the drive shaft ball and trunnion repacked and a new boot installed. The old boot was torn so I pulled the shaft, disassembled the joint, cleaned it up, replaced the boot, repacked it and reassembled it. Also, found another hole in the intermediate exhaust pipe and fixed it. I used a fairly new product called Fiber Fix. It's a fiberglass reinforced tape. You soak it in water and then wrap whatever you need fixed. Super strong and it withstands temperatures to 850 degrees. I also am installing a new tail pipe. Not wanting to do the entire exhaust until the 225 later on down the road with the headers so I am repairing what I can. The tail pipe was just too rusted and I found a new one for 15 bucks. No brainer. I will post more pictures tomorrow of the drive shaft and the exhaust. Have to get a coupler for the tail pipe and it will be done.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Got the drive shaft ball and trunnion repacked and a new boot installed. The old boot was torn so I pulled the shaft, disassembled the joint, cleaned it up, replaced the boot, repacked it and reassembled it. Also, found another hole in the intermediate exhaust pipe and fixed it. I used a fairly new product called Fiber Fix. It's a fiberglass reinforced tape. You soak it in water and then wrap whatever you need fixed. Super strong and it withstands temperatures to 850 degrees. I also am installing a new tail pipe. Not wanting to do the entire exhaust until the 225 later on down the road with the headers so I am repairing what I can. The tail pipe was just too rusted and I found a new one for 15 bucks. No brainer. I will post more pictures tomorrow of the drive shaft and the exhaust. Have to get a coupler for the tail pipe and it will be done.
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Where did you find a new boot for the driveshaft??
When I looked those were mega hard to find.
 
Rainy Day Auto said:
Where did you find a new boot for the driveshaft??
When I looked those were mega hard to find.
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Ebay. There are several on there now. Real easy to install. I know they can be done without pressing the trunnion pin out, but I have a press and that's how I prefer to do it. Only thing I wish they'd make different is where the large strap goes around the boot. There's no rib to keep it from sliding off and down on the boot. There's a rib on the side facing the trunnion housing, but none on the other side, so if you're not careful, the strap will slide off. The small strap on the drive shaft side has ribs on both sides so it stays put. I WAS going to service the entire joint, but it is in very good condition, so I just replaced the torn boot.
 
Your project is moving along well. It’s been a while since I’ve done a project and reading along reminds me that when I did I was a ‘Happy Camper’
 
FISHYPETE said:
Your project is moving along well. It’s been a while since I’ve done a project and reading along reminds me that when I did I was a ‘Happy Camper’
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Thanks FISHYPETE! It feels good to finally be feeling good enough to be back in the swing of things again. Got more done tonight. Got the tail pipe on and it is very quiet now. Also noticed that cracked just above idle, it was running a little rough. Only thing I had not done at this point was put the timing light on it "just to see" where it is. It was sitting about 20* initial. Evidently, slants don't like that. I backed it down to about 12* and it smoothed out nicely. Going to work on cleaning up the fuse panel tomorrow, as some of the contacts have surface rust on them. Turn signals and dash lights don't work and I suspect the fuse box may be where the trouble is. Forgot to take pics, but I will have it up in the air again as I forgot to grease the front end.

Yall gotta try the Fiber Fix stuff I am talking about. I had to reposition the muffler, as it was rubbing the drive shaft. The exhaust pipe right in front of the muffler had only like an inch of pipe left holding it on before I wrapped it with Fiber Fix. It has now cured close to a week. I took a chance when Evan was over and let him hold the exhaust pipe in front of the muffler, while I grabbed the muffler and bent the exhaust pipe away from the drive shaft a tad. The Fiber fix did not give, but the pipe bent just where I needed it to. This stuff is STRONG.
 
Restoring and working on old cars is sorta like training a horse, I reward him for the "slightest try". With the car deal, I get a big sense of accomplishment every time I fix even the smallest thing. That is my reward!
RRR you have an advantage over many of us as you know what you are doing!!
 
barbee6043 said:
Restoring and working on old cars is sorta like training a horse, I reward him for the "slightest try". With the car deal, I get a big sense of accomplishment every time I fix even the smallest thing. That is my reward!
RRR you have an advantage over many of us as you know what you are doing!!
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I don't know man. I wonder about that sometimes. lol
 
Genuine MoonEyes heavy metalflake steering wheel and working dash lights. Baby steps. ABodyBomber wouldda loved that steering wheel. <sniff>

STEERING WHEEL.jpg


DASH LIGHTS.jpg
 
What did you do to get the dash lights working?

Thanks for the info on driveshaft. I need to do the boot on mine
 
jedrattle said:
What did you do to get the dash lights working?

Thanks for the info on driveshaft. I need to do the boot on mine
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Replaced the headlight switch, then replaced all the bulbs with fresh ones. Only had one burned out. The headlight switch was worn and did not make good contact for the dash lights. You could wiggle the handle and they would flash. Now they work stead and the dim feature even works.
 
Thank yall for the kind words. I am working on getting it an operating tag light tonight. I found one of "some Mopar vintage" on EBay, but it is going to require a little modding to make work. Have to enlarge the hole through the trunk panel above the tag and drill two small holes. The plug is already there.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Replaced the headlight switch, then replaced all the bulbs with fresh ones. Only had one burned out. The headlight switch was worn and did not make good contact for the dash lights. You could wiggle the handle and they would flash. Now they work stead and the dim feature even works.
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Cool. My lights don't work and my gauges kinda work when they want too.
 
jedrattle said:
Cool. My lights don't work and my gauges kinda work when they want too.
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You might try doing what I did. Just cleaning everything up real good. So far, they are continuing to work, but I haven't called it fixed yet. They were extremely dirty so hopefully that did it.
 
I think she was just feeling neglected all those years. Might have someone lookin over your shoulder too, bro.
 
RustyRatRod said:
You might try doing what I did. Just cleaning everything up real good. So far, they are continuing to work, but I haven't called it fixed yet. They were extremely dirty so hopefully that did it.
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That’s exactly what we did with Jason’s along with the LED light bulbs. Cleaned all the contacts and circuit board really well.

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RustyRatRod said:
What radio is that?
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The face is a modified 1964 AM piece I had in my “archives”.

And the radio is a 1966 Plymouth Fury AM/FM unit my uncle had in his “archives”. Lol.

Grandpa cleaned out the insides and made sure the circuitry was solid and it sounds like a million bucks with a decent set of modern 6x9s wired in series.

Here’s some before during and after pics.

Original AM radio we robbed the face from. It didn’t work.

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The below picture was my first draft to hide the fm behind the am screen. It just made the dial confusing to read.

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And below is the final finished product. A square push button 65 face would have been perfect. But we didn’t have one of those, and parts cost money, lol. So we modified a 1964 round push button to work.

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Total cost. $3……the cost of the LED light bulb. Lol.
 
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