Yes, but '73-'76 frt. drum equipped A-bodies were still SBP, & I'm not certain when the carrier design changed...I do have a labor/parts guide, I can check it out when i get back, it should cover the transition from bearing plate to C-lock period...
1964 Valiant "Get Runnin & Drivin"
- Thread starter RustyRatRod
- Start date
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Hyper_pak
Old School Chrysler Fan
My 76 Feather Duster was all small bolt pattern, drum brakes.
7.25 rear.
Rusty, did I miss something? I thought you had a Ford rear under your back side!
7.25 rear.
Rusty, did I miss something? I thought you had a Ford rear under your back side!
So, what I have, including a '79 FSM covering F-Bodies... the bearings are still press-on w/a retaining collar & plate system. Only change was the switch to larger axle brgs for the LBP/disc-10" drum equipped A's and F's, using the same as the B-body 7.25's.
Open diff side gears#2404194
Open diff pinion spiders#2404195
Open diff pinion shaft#2404198
Open diff Kit#3780790 includes above + shims & retaining pin.
Open diff side gears#2404194
Open diff pinion spiders#2404195
Open diff pinion shaft#2404198
Open diff Kit#3780790 includes above + shims & retaining pin.
bcschief
Well-Known Member
AMS Obsolete show all the parts not sure on the quantity or price, but they are in Fairmount Georgia. AMS Obsolete Home Page
Part numbers are from 1963 parts manual so some may have changed numbers thru the years.
2070027 Shaft
152229 Pin
2070025 Pinion Gear 2 required.
2070026 Washer 2 required.
2070023 Side Gear 2 required.
2070024 Washer 2 required.
Part numbers are from 1963 parts manual so some may have changed numbers thru the years.
2070027 Shaft
152229 Pin
2070025 Pinion Gear 2 required.
2070026 Washer 2 required.
2070023 Side Gear 2 required.
2070024 Washer 2 required.
I have a 9" I am working on. Narrowed to a body width, but I am saving up for custom axles. Costly because they have to be 31 spline Ford on the inside and Chrysler small bolt pattern flange on the outside.
Went by to see my buddy @Bighead440 today. He was kind enough to give me a good, low mileage power steering gearbox. So one step closer to power steering for Vixen.
So I found a good deal on some really good condition Valiant hub caps. If yall remember, I had the full wheel covers on, but before that, I had the Dodge fratzog hub caps. These are the same but with the Valiant V in the center. I embellished them with a little red paint. lol
I just lost one of these when the guy at the tire shop didn't replace it correctly after fixing a flat and I failed to check his handiwork. A terrible lesson to learn. I don't suppose your source has any more?
I don't know, but I can ask.
I asked and he said those were all that he had. Sending you a PM.
I'm not a welder and I'm not a bodyman, but I've made some progress on Vixen's outer wheelwell. I gave up the first attempt and ground it back off. I flattened out a piece of scrap fender and cut the basic shape. Cut small slices in what would be the 90 degree turn in and bent it in. Then I used the quarter patch panel as a template and shaped the outer wheelhouse panel to fit it. "For me" it turned out ok.
I also went ahead and cut the lower portion of the rear quarter off all the way around to where it welds onto the valance panel. The driver's side trunk drop off needs the first 3" of the bottom replaced, but I can make that. Now I gotta save up for the rear quarter patch panel too. That will be a bit. lol
Looks good and solid to me also, good job Rusty 
^^^ Thats how I have done it many times.
I always wanted one of those little stretcher/shrinker tools!!!!
I learned decades ago, IF I did a (rare?) car back to perfect, I was worried about driving it and getting a scratch or gravel peck... and I knew it would have to be sold to make way for my next project. Love the build/ love saving another old car soul/ And as time went on and the cost of my old standby drool cars (69 Roadrunners and Bees) got too expensive to build..... I went to affordable projects and my method was get it running and without any rust, get it decent straight and never have more $ in it than I could get back out.
OK... so I admit IF I had just kept those first few (rare???) (desirable??) Mopars and NOT put $$ into more projects, I would have more $ today......but what is life if it is just boring and a continual string of more boring days!!???
I always wanted one of those little stretcher/shrinker tools!!!!
I learned decades ago, IF I did a (rare?) car back to perfect, I was worried about driving it and getting a scratch or gravel peck... and I knew it would have to be sold to make way for my next project. Love the build/ love saving another old car soul/ And as time went on and the cost of my old standby drool cars (69 Roadrunners and Bees) got too expensive to build..... I went to affordable projects and my method was get it running and without any rust, get it decent straight and never have more $ in it than I could get back out.
OK... so I admit IF I had just kept those first few (rare???) (desirable??) Mopars and NOT put $$ into more projects, I would have more $ today......but what is life if it is just boring and a continual string of more boring days!!???
So here it is after cleaning it all up and a coat of undercoating. Turned out good for me. I have about another 5-6 inches on that very back curve going down to the bottom of the rear quarter. I also cut off some of the bottom of the rear quarter in preparation to replace that piece as well. It'll be easier to replace both pieces at the same time so I can get everything lined up right. It needs the trunk floor drop off too on this side, but I have to fix this one, because it's just not in the budget. It only needs about the bottom 2-3 inches replaced anyway and I can make that out of scrap sheet metal.
^^^ Good deal!!!! Its called gettin it done best ya can with what ya have!!! BUT... don't let that group of guys call you a hacker or worse! I always wonder about that group of guys....... Are they just so talented and skilled? do they have enough $$$ to have all the best tools/equiupment? do they spend months doing what we do in a weekend?? Just wondering?? They they just pay a big $$ shop to do it???? 
JDMopar
Well-Known Member
Looks like you done a fine job to me! If it seals up to the quarter and keeps the road crud from getting inside.....it'll last long past when we're all pushing up Daisies! 
I've had the quarter patch panel against it several times and it mates up good.Looks like you done a fine job to me! If it seals up to the quarter and keeps the road crud from getting inside.....it'll last long past when we're all pushing up Daisies!
I decided I'm gonna let this be it for a bit. She's been sittin up a little long for my likin. That's what this is all about anyway. Runnin& Drivin. I put her wheels back on last night and let her down. Backed her out this mornin and blew all the dust off. We have church later on and we'll probably drive her into town after that. I'm just not a body man anyway and I cannot STAND doing a lot of it all at once, so I'm gonna lay off for a little while. I figure it's better to do that now than before I get really sick of it. lol
Ok, so I finally got around to installing my rear sway bar on Vixen. It turned out ok. I had to get some 2.5" u bolts and fab up some C channel brackets for the rear end tubes, since the 7.25 uses 2.5" tubes and of course the kit comes with 3" brackets and 3" u bolts. But that was no big deal. I also had to get longer link kits, as the links in the kit were way too short, but it's all worked out now. Notice on the frame attachment for the links I cut two 1/4" plates and welded them to the frame rails for reinforcement in that area, since it's a common problem for the little u bolts that hold the link brackets to the frame to actually tear out of the frame. I wire brushed that whole area and then sprayed it down with rubberized undercoating. Anyway, here's the end result.
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That will make a difference on how it handles.
For sure...now RRR and the little woman will get to the cafe for lunch quicker now!!!! Actually.... good size sway bars really make a difference.
Years ago I bought my first BB A body, a 67 Cuda 383 4 speed, The PO had installed a big front aftermarket sway bar, it took corners almost like a Vette..almost.
Years ago I bought my first BB A body, a 67 Cuda 383 4 speed, The PO had installed a big front aftermarket sway bar, it took corners almost like a Vette..almost.
Well, my little brackets I made didn't work out. They kinda crushed under the load and caused the nuts holding the sway bar to the rear axle to back off. That's ok. Stay tuned. I got somethin for all dat. LOL
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