1964 Valiant "Get Runnin & Drivin"

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RustyRatRod said:
LOL
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Ha Ha Ha!
You know that i was just kidding!
Good on you Rob, that patina is what some pay big buck$$$$ to recreate.
I like the fact that you have the stones to drive it and enjoy it when most people would hate it for not being a concours show car all painted up and fancy.
To me, another one running and driving is better than one in the garage ''waiting for perfection''...........
 
Dartnut said:
Ha Ha Ha!
You know that i was just kidding!
Good on you Rob, that patina is what some pay big buck$$$$ to recreate.
I like the fact that you have the stones to drive it and enjoy it when most people would hate it for not being a concours show car all painted up and fancy.
To me, another one running and driving is better than one in the garage ''waiting for perfection''...........
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Evan and I have already been scheming about how quickly we can get the car in paint. My plan is to get the floor pans done first, then move on to the outside. I figure if I limit it to one section at the time I can keep costs down while still driving it.

And I do promise to be better about posting pictures in the future.
 
I too am one to want to be able to drive a car as I do the work. Yes a ( good) body shop will pull the fenders/ doors as it is easier to work on them, and they can do a more thorough job. But us guys that are hands, on want to drive it types, if we are doing the body work, we find a way not to spend 5-10 years on the project car!?? We are the types to not demand a perfect finish capable of winning the grand prize at the largest Mopar gathering in the continental US!? Just the key word is "drive"!?
 
Cut a lot of the bad metal out of the rear floor pans tonight. Not cutting around the seat mounts yet, as I want to drive it a few more days. Cut through the gas line like a dumbass. Fixed it though. Dammit. Pics to come.
 
Here is a shot of the bad metal cut from the floor pans. The new pans will cover a considerable amount more than I've cut, but I left what I did because I plan to drive the car a bit more before I replace the pans. The new pans will repair over 90% of the rust through. The other small percentage I will repair with scrap sheet metal. Of course, you can see the compression fitting where I cut the fuel line dead in two. lol

FLOORPANS.jpg

COMPRESSION FITTING.jpg
 
RustyRatRod said:
Here is a shot of the bad metal cut from the floor pans. The new pans will cover a considerable amount more than I've cut, but I left what I did because I plan to drive the car a bit more before I replace the pans. The new pans will repair over 90% of the rust through. The other small percentage I will repair with scrap sheet metal. Of course, you can see the compression fitting where I cut the fuel line dead in two. lol

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Wondering about exhaust fumes !
 
RustyRatRod said:
Replaced the headlight switch, then replaced all the bulbs with fresh ones. Only had one burned out. The headlight switch was worn and did not make good contact for the dash lights. You could wiggle the handle and they would flash. Now they work stead and the dim feature even works.
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What headlight switch did you use? I bought a Standard DS 165 and it doesn’t work correctly.
 
RustyRatRod said:
The DS165. What doesn't work correctly?
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When I pull the knob the headlights come on in the first click and then the high beams in the second click, where the headlights should come on normally.


Edit...actually the high beams come on first and then the low beams.
 
H lug is headlight feed to hi/lo beam switch and then its red or black 12V out depending on what the hi beam switch is selected. P lug is parking lights. P is well #3 of 8 port bulkhead connector, H is well #8.
 
The DS165 is the correct switch for that application. You may have a defective switch, a bad dimmer switch, or a wiring issue.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Here is a shot of the bad metal cut from the floor pans. The new pans will cover a considerable amount more than I've cut, but I left what I did because I plan to drive the car a bit more before I replace the pans. The new pans will repair over 90% of the rust through. The other small percentage I will repair with scrap sheet metal. Of course, you can see the compression fitting where I cut the fuel line dead in two. lol

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LOL I cut my fuel line too. Looking good man. What you going to do for floor pans while you're driving it?
 
Looks like I am going to have to stop driving it for now. The driver's side leaf spring is creaking badly and has sagged a bit since I have been driving it. I am sure it is going to fail. At least I do have it running well. Oh well. lol
 
Standard A body length springs, who got a set for Rob?!?!?!?!
 
rumblefish360 said:
Standard A body length springs, who got a set for Rob?!?!?!?!
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I got a '62 Valiant and a '62 Lancer parts cars here. I'll take the tractor and lift them up for him BUT he has to take them out.
I have wrenches, sawzall, torches, impact, whatever. Or he can bring his own. His for the taking. But l ain't doing the work.
 
I am going to get some new XHD springs from General Spring. I was just hoping they would last a little longer. lol I may try some air shocks to prolong the agony since I can get them cheap. I hate to quit driving it because it runs so well and it's getting really good mileage.
 
rumblefish360 said:
LMAO! Well, thanks but that doesn’t help. What state?

RRR, have you figured out about the kind of mileage your getting?
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I haven't measured it yet. It had a 1/4 tank when I drive it the first time. I could not tell the needle had moved until I drove TO work the second day. I put 3/4 tank in yesterday. The needle hasn't moved yet. When I can afford to fill it up, I'l do some measurin. lol
 
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