1965 Barracuda 273 rebuild...intake code?

[Barracuda 65]

That's what I thought you'd find. It depends how far you want to go with it. If it needs bored and you need pistons anyway you might as well get the high compressions ones. Egge still makes them. What rocker arms do you have? Adjustables? If so you can change to a solid lifter cam like the original engines had with new lifters and pushrods. But, nothing wrong with a hydraulic and lots more choices.

It came with hydraulic lifters but I do have a set of solid adjustable rockers and shafts for it. I grew up adjusting lifters on the old y- block Ford 292 so no problem for me.
I'll probably check the bore and go for the high compression set up. Probably change cams to match the original Commando type set up with solid lifters.

I've only had minor seeping from the front intake manifold gasket. The bolts all had washers under them i believe.
this picture is just before I pulled the intake off. View attachment 1715630687

 

[Barracuda 65]

The Commando 4bbl block is the same as the 2 bbl, only the pistons differ, so other than the casting# being the wrong year, your block is "correct" for a Commando. 4bbl cars had a special exhaust with rear resonator. It is still a single exhaust, but the rear valance has a rectangular slot (driver's side) to clear the resonator, so if your body has that it was an original 4 bbl car. I don't recall if all 4 bbl or a special model (D-Dart, HiPo, forget). A member here in Europe has one and has posted all the info.

Some wonder why they didn't make it dual exhaust. I read that they tested both and found the single exhaust gave more power, similar to the 4-into-1 exhaust conversions that were popular on 1970's motorcycles. One company reproduces that complete exhaust, I recall ~$750. Some have installed a dual exhaust, but you must fab a cut-out in the transmission cross-over on the right side. One exhaust company will do that for you if you ship it and buy their dual-exhaust kit. Dual exhaust might look better to the casual public, but those in the know are more impressed with the resonator HiPo single exhaust.

BTW, if you get the domed HiPo pistons, a racer's trick was to install them clocked backwards. That is because the wrist-pin is slightly off-center, so changes the stroke per crank angle motion. I don't know if that applies to the Egge domed pistons.

I have a few HiPo pistons since I bought a HiPo engine locally for $100, but it sat outside with the V up so all pistons were rusted seized. I got all out by beating, but some were damaged (others questionable). The block would have needed over-sized pistons anyway, unless one were to sleeve all cylinders to use standard-size pistons. The block isn't special, but at least the crankshaft and rockers are good, so worth the price. Too bad the guy used the special finned valve covers (rare & valuable) on another engine. If anyone needs a 1965 block to be correct, I'll sell it cheap if near Sacramento or off I-99 or I-5 my next trip to LA or San Diego to visit kids. OP is in TX, so shipping a block is $$$, but small parts, like the pushrods (longer for solid lifters) I could mail.

I do have the new Accurate factory style single exhaust system for it and will go with that with the rear rectangle tip resonator.

 

[Barracuda 65]

Try to find some smaller diameter head gaskets too.

What would that entail?

 

[toolmanmike]

I do have the new Accurate factory style single exhaust system for it and will go with that with the rear rectangle tip resonator.

good stuff

What would that entail?

Mr Gasket 1121G is the smallest bore and thinnest head gasket made unless you have one specially made by Cometic. Their multi layer steel are a bit thicker but they can make them in a smaller bore size which may save a .1 or so compression.

 

[Commando66]

I bought some original 273 head gaskets a few years ago from AMS Obsolete in Georgia.

What would that entail?

 

[Barracuda 65]

I need help again! I need a thermostat housing for the intake manifold that was previously installed on my 273 V8 LA block, casting number #4100340 (thermoquad or spreadbore type), (see first page of this post). The bolt holes center to center are smaller than most small block holes. They measure 2 7/8 inch center to center, most others are 3.25 . Can anyone help me on this please?

 

[Barracuda 65]

Guys...I just wanted to say "THANK YOo" for all your advice and input in helping me with the rebuild of my '65 Barracuda engine. Everything came out great and I added some spice to it with a Competition Cam kit, Weiand Intake, electronic distributor and Holley 600 4160 carb. We didn't have to bore it or turn the crank, but installed all new parts and dressed it up a little. Just wanted to share a couple of pics of the finished engine. Runs really great too with new stock style Barracuda S exhaust system with rectangle muffler/tip from Accurate Exhaust.

Again thank you for all your help, I really appreciate you knowledge and willingness to share your wisdom.

 

[dart4forte]

Good combo to run

920s for the heads. You can run a 1.88 valve cut down to 1.84. With the 1.84 intake you won’t have any shrouding. You didn’t say if you have to go overbore on the cylinders. If you have to bore the block have fun finding pistons. Just went through that exercise. EGGE and Canter are a source however when I talked with EGGE they we’re out of stock of the flattop pistons. Kanter had the 10 to 1 pistons however they only had standard and .010 over pop ups. No flat tops.

E4 grind Isky cam. Oregon Cam can make up a camp for you. They can get you a a hydraulic cam close to the E4 specs. Take your old lifters and send them to Oregon Cam to have the refurbished. Most if not all lifters today are made offshore. Lots of wiped out camshafts and unhappy owners.

Edelbrock LD4B. If you run the 920s you won’t have to elongate the bolt holes.

Carter 9636 or 9635. Carb was discontinued years ago however plenty of them on the net


Oh, I see you finished the motor. Good luck with your car.

 

[Barracuda 65]

Thanks for your feedback and info! The previous owner evidently installed a 1967 273 block for unknown reasons, but stock heads for the '65 273. We discovered the block was bored .40 over with regular pistons, heads were milled, and a new valve job. The crank had been turned to .10/.10 and a hydraulic cam set up installed which we replaced with a more aggressive cam set up. Compression is about 9.2/1. We put all new cam kit, rings, all bearings, hi volume water pump and oil pump Just wish I had a sure grip rear diff but for now have to settle for the stock 7 1/4 open differential. Installed new ball/trunnion and u-joint, checked over the A-833 4 speed and all seemed to be good, installed new clutch kit.
Still wondering about maybe changing heads, what do you think. Keeping stock exhaust manifolds cause I can't seem to find a set that fits the 4-speed set up without having to modify parts.

 

[wheelsport]

Last spring I installed a 318 Edelbrock spreadbore manifold, that I bought on this forum, on my stock 273. I had no problem with the different bolt size. The bolt holes lined up. I made wedged washers to adjust the angle of the manifold. I also installed a higher lift Comp hydralic cam. I had some problems with push rod sizes but once I had Manton make custom push rods, everthing went fine. I wish had stayed with solid lifters because of the problems. I was concered about the mismatched passages so I called Edelbrock. They told me not to worry about it because it helps keep the air velocity up and helps with throttle response. In racing applications, it’s common to port-match the manifold to match the cylinder head port entry or opening, for peak performance. In street applications, the only time port matching your intake manifold to the cylinder heads is recommended is if your operating range exceeds the manifolds range, or on large displacement engine combos. The engine runs great!