I would think that original ones have no identifying marks on them at all. No part number, no Chrysler logo, nothing.
The NOS one I have is like that - no part number, logo, nothing. It will be on the way to Ulf tomorrow.
I would think that original ones have no identifying marks on them at all. No part number, no Chrysler logo, nothing.
What does the other side of this slide look like? Is the pattern on both sides ? I agree, the slide should be a semi-gloss plain plastic piece. You might find what you need from a plastics supplier and just get them to cut it to the correct shape. I would think that original ones have no identifying marks on them at all. No part number, no Chrysler logo, nothing.
Plaschy, no, the typeface is very definitely not the same in the '71 glass markings as in the '65 markings, and none of the ones you're suggesting Ulf use matches the '65 markings he's trying to reproduce.
Ulf, take a look at ECS' Mopar glass page and you'll see a presentation, in usefully high contrast, of the various-over-the-years marks (and you'll also see what I mean about the '65 typeface not being the same as the '71 typeface).
Guess I learned something new today.
Ulf, keep up the good work!
Thanks Dan! I checked out the ECS website and they have what I'm looking for. I did a picture of it.
But there is one edition that needs to be done. To the left of the Pentastar there should be a text stripe reading "TINTED" but that's all.
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Hey that one is from the Mcgraw Glass plant! that is soooo cool it was sandblasted in and should be some dotted letters since it was shot through a stencil made out of a rubber circle We didn't start printing the Dot stuff on till ummmm dang mid 70's. 75 or so and yes I was still making the 64-66 barracuda rear window and side glass in 74 man that beast was heavy!!!!.
I used to have to do them working on the sidelight line. We'd put flat glass on the cutting table and manually run the cutter around the ring that was the shape of the glass. when the cutter reached a certain part if the ring(directly over where the stencil was to go to hold the glass tight) a cylinder full of sand with that stencil made out of rubber on top of it would get a blast of air to sandblast in the stencil. then we'd manually do a glass breakout and load it on the lineto the washer so an inspector could check for vendors scratches and just general oopses .we had a bunch of different ones for each different side glass and shift.
I don't remember any of the early glass having a tinted printed or stenciled on it from McGraw glass plant. now PPG could have since their naming convention was totally different. After 64 they (Started 1965 finished by changing by 73)were qualified in number differences only ie 61 was clear glass of a certian thickenss (1st number designates thickness of glass lower number is thicker)could be 4,5,6,7,8. 7 and 8 were windshields and some 5's were imperial(heavy as all get out ) depending on glass. Either sidelight 5 or 6, backlight =4,5 and 6 or windshields 5(imperial only and only as a 52 number= heavy and tinted ),7 and 8.
second number was color or lack of.
1 was clear glass (didn't run much of that after 68 mostly fleet trucks and vans)
2 was tinted glass
3 was with a top shade band
5 was SolarBan (fiasco from the glass plants bending procedures 50% scrap rate) designers loved it (idiots)
7 privacy bronze tint non heated could be backlight or side glass
9 dark brown (heated only rear glass)
there are more types available buy those are some of the numbers I had to make sure were right for the glass, nowadays they even have the date shift dots and line that cut/bent and printed on there. there were different makers Mcgraw glass plant =SafeGuard CD division, LOF= libby owens ford, PPG pittsburg plate glass and MM or MN something something Mexico (even back then they made bad glass. worse than china glass today)
Ulf
I just wanted to say your project is looking great !
I have a question on your heater box .. Is there a paint that can give the apperence of the fiberglass look ? just wondering.
Thanks Ulf.
john
No, there is no paint that gives the fibreglass look with the randomly-distributed fine light lines in a dark brown material.
Does anyone know what areas that was covered with undercoating? I have ordered my undercoating but I need more specifically areas where it was applayed.
Thanks FABO!
I just wonder what color the face of the drum should be painted in?