1965 Dodge Dart Charger

[65dartcharger]

:banghead:Finally the shifter is bolted in place. Everything worked out just great. BUT, there is some problems with the shifting cable. The end is too long so there isn't enough room for the upper clips on the cable!

This NOS unit might have been packed wrong. During Chrysler at Carlisle I was able to get another NOS cable so hopefully that one will work!

 

[65dartcharger]

After very carefully removing the shifter cable I was able to get the whole ting out. With a close examination Ifound the diffenrencies.

It seems that Chrysler (or someone else) packed a shifting cable for a push-buttom transmission in a 1965 shifter package!!!!

Picture one is covering the cables with the front ends are out and Picture two shows how it looks when it's in the in-position.

That explains why the sifting rod couldn't be placed in park!:banghead:

When I get back home later this week I will get back the right cable in place and adjust the park and shift towaqrds the gates. Hopefully it will work outfine. :glasses7:

 

[66340SEDAN]

I can't wait to see this car in person...it will be hands down the best 65 Dart ever restored rayer:

Keep up the awesome work Ulf :glasses7:

 

[65dartcharger]

I can't wait to see this car in person...it will be hands down the best 65 Dart ever restored rayer:

Keep up the awesome work Ulf :glasses7:

Thanks Keith!

After 9,5 years I'm looking forward to the end of the restoration. A restoration in assembly line standard takes quite som energy to fulfill. Cheating has not been an option either! If I should redo the restoration there is nothing that I could have done better! That's a good feeling!

At the same time I must admit that this restoration couldn't been done without all the help I have got from FABO members around the world.

I got an email telling me that the carpet from Legendary was done incl the extra 2 yard so I can sew the extra material up front and extra material at the end of the front carpet. With the carpet in place there is so much that can be done.

 

[65dartcharger]

I'm about to buy the undercoating for my car. So far the best seems to be RestoRicks product. Does anyone have any experience with this company?

 

[davescuda]

I'm about to buy the undercoating for my car. So far the best seems to be RestoRicks product. Does anyone have any experience with this company?

I personally never tried it. But I herd its very good, closest to original that's out there.

 

[65dartcharger]

I personally never tried it. But I herd its very good, closest to original that's out there.

At Carlisle I heard that some of the top restorers used it too. It will be a challenge to get a one gallon drum over here!!:banghead:

Finally the shifting cable and the parking cable is mounted to the shifter and everything works as it should. I adjusted the parking brake according to the level on the small park bracket and now it connects as it should. I even added the tejp holding the wiring harness for the shifting house lamp. After the bulb is there I'm going to try the electrical systems.

Thanks Dan (slantsixdan)for the help with the bulb.

 

[65dartcharger]

I recieved a package from US today. Inside was an NOS upper radiator hose! This means that all hoses are assembly line correct with the right text and the right pattern. :glasses7:

 

[Martythetrimmer]

Great progress Ulf.....I was looking at the pictures of your seat on the last page, just a small thing but I know what you're like with small details!

I don't know if the way the piping is sitting is correct for the Dart but it's not the way most cars would be....when the seat is sewn together with piping you end up with 4 layers of vinyl, these are normally turned to sit under the boarder where as yours are turned to sit under the face of the seat. This maybe correct for the Dart but is worth checking!


View attachment ULF.jpg

 

[toolmanmike]

I recieved a package from US today. Inside was an NOS upper radiator hose! This means that all hoses are assembly line correct with the right text and the right pattern. :glasses7:

Your build will be "the" textbook for all who restore these cars from now on.

Great progress Ulf.....I was looking at the pictures of your seat on the last page, just a small thing but I know what you're like with small details!

I don't know if the way the piping is sitting is correct for the Dart but it's not the way most cars would be....when the seat is sewn together with piping you end up with 4 layers of
vinyl, these are normally turned to sit under the boarder where as yours are turned to sit under the face of the seat. This maybe correct for the Dart but is worth checking! View attachment 1714752081

Good catch! Most of us would never know that detail.




As always, enjoying this thread and Ulf's professionalism. There are also many FABO members that have been able to help with technology or parts. Ulf, your restoration highlights the great people on this site. I hope to see this car and meet you at Carlisle or the Mopar Nats! toolmanmike

 

[65dartcharger]

Your build will be "the" textbook for all who restore these cars from now on.

Thanks toolmanmike! As a matter of fact I'm in the process of writing a reference manual for 1965 Dart that will also include 1964 and 1966. But I must continue this one before continue with 64 and 66!

Good catch! Most of us would never know that detail.

Re the seat covers, they are from Legendary Auto Interiors. I compared them with my factory ones and there were small differencies between them.

I would need a better explanation to get the point. My english isn't what it should be. I get the piping but is it about the piping going around the seat buttom? Sorry!!




As always, enjoying this thread and Ulf's professionalism. There are also many FABO members that have been able to help with technology or parts. Ulf, your restoration highlights the great people on this site. I hope to see this car and meet you at Carlisle or the Mopar Nats! toolmanmike

Thanks Mike for those Words. YEs, I must admit that this resto hadn't take Place without the help from FABO members worldwide. Hats off to all of you! It remarkable how much information there is out there. Looking forward to meet you Mike.

Tonight stage 2 with the air outlet took place. Glassbeading and some correction of the spot welds. Hopefully the paint can be applayed tomorrow!

 

[65dartcharger]

I finally got the hook spring.

First out was the hook on the upper side of the jack. Attachnig the spring is no problem and the spring do the job without any problems.

Second way to mount the bumper jack was the hook hanging under the jack. There is only one way to attach the spring and it's on the backside of the hook. That way the hook get loose from the jack. I don't think this was the way it was mounted from factory.

Any inputs?

 

[slantsixdan]

That hook spring appears to be a '66-up item.

 

[Martythetrimmer]

hope this sample I made shows what I mean a bit better Ulf...

View attachment 3.jpg

View attachment 4.jpg

 

[65dartcharger]

That hook spring appears to be a '66-up item.

I know Dan but since the 1964 bumper jack has a different spring and my car had this newer bumper jack the old style don't fit.

Can it be that they changed the jack and spring when the old ones were out to get rid of all. It must mean that the change were done in the early/middle of the 1965 production year.

Any input is welcome.

martythetrimmer! I will check the piping. Thanks for the better Pictures.

 

[slantsixdan]

I know Dan but since the 1964 bumper jack has a different spring and my car had this newer bumper jack the old style don't fit.

I'm not talking about 1964 bumper jacks. Nothing about the '65-and-earlier spring would prevent its use with the type of jack you have. The difference is at the bottom end of the spring. The '66-up spring has the full circular loop for the jack handle to go through. The earlier spring has a U-bend with a horizontal "tail".

It must mean that the change were done in the early/middle of the 1965 production year.

Maybe, but unless some kind of solid documentation comes forth about it, that's likely to remain a guess. Unfortunately this spring doesn't seem to be listed in the parts catalogues at all.

 

[65dartcharger]

hope this sample I made shows what I mean a bit better Ulf...

View attachment 1714753514

View attachment 1714753515

I checked my seats in the red wagon and this is how it looks. It's pointing outwards instead of upwardsand this is factory stuff too.

The pictures from my convertible shows it very well. After the hinge the piping is pointing outwards.

On my white seats they are pointing upwards and outwards.

My guess is that it all depended on the personell on the assembly line. It they didn't put the piping right when they added the cover over the seat foam the piping was pointing different ways. It might be that the manufacturers that supplayed the sewn seat covers did "iron" the piping to Point upwards but if the guys and gals at the line didn't pay to much attension the piping could Point in different ways. Best Picture of it is the black seats in the convertible.

slantsixdan

I'm not talking about 1964 bumper jacks. Nothing about the '65-and-earlier spring would prevent its use with the type of jack you have. The difference is at the bottom end of the spring. The '66-up spring has the full circular loop for the jack handle to go through. The earlier spring has a U-bend with a horizontal "tail".

OK, got ya! Perhaps the 66 spring can be redone do 1965 specs with a picture on how the 1965 spring looks. Dan! I checked the partsbook too but no info about springs. I don't have all the TSC sheets but the ones that I have doesn't show anything either. :banghead:

 

[65dartcharger]

I tried to re-produce the bumper jack spring with Paint Photoshop but one end is upside down!! I think this is the way it should be like!

 

[kmccabe56]

I tried to re-produce the bumper jack spring with Paint Photoshop but one end is upside down!! I think this is the way it should be like!

Almost. The two hooks on the spring should be 90° apart. One end goes under the jack handle/tire iron, and the other goes to the jack. Does the hook on this jack come off the ratchet? If it does, it should be installed in the tire well with the jack base and the jack itself should be turned 180° to allow the longer finger of the hold down spring to go over the pin the hook mounts on.

You have 7:00-13 tires on your car ? In the spare tire well, the wheel/tire needs to go in with the inside of the wheel facing up. The long threaded bolt that slips into the floor bracket should come up through the register opening of the wheel. The jack base goes in next, upside down so that you see the bottom of the base. Then the hook goes in laying on its side with the threaded bolt going through the hole in the sides of the hook. The big threaded wing nut goes on next and you need to tighten everything FIRMLY. At this point the masonite panel goes on and what little is left of the threaded rod has the black painted metal retainer installed with the small wing nut holding the retainer and the masonite in place. The masonite will be 3/4-1" above the trunk floor. V8 cars got 7:00-13 tires as standard. It's possible that a 6:50-13 tire will be smaller enough to allow the masonite panel to sit flush. I'm betting that this basic spare tire well stamping has been carried over from the 1960-1962 cars, most of which got 6:50-13 tires.

The spring that you photo-shopped has the same hook at each end. The production spring has a larger hook with a much longer finger on the end that attaches to the jack ratchet.

 

[slantsixdan]

kmccabe56 I agree with everything you say here except that the spare tire stamping is a carryover from '62. The '60-'61 A-bodies had a rounded-corner-square spare tire well.

Ulf, what we need is for someone to cough up a pre-'66 spring and send it to you!

 

[65dartcharger]

Almost. The two hooks on the spring should be 90° apart. One end goes under the jack handle/tire iron, and the other goes to the jack. Does the hook on this jack come off the ratchet? If it does, it should be installed in the tire well with the jack base and the jack itself should be turned 180° to allow the longer finger of the hold down spring to go over the pin the hook mounts on.

You have 7:00-13 tires on your car ? In the spare tire well, the wheel/tire needs to go in with the inside of the wheel facing up. The long threaded bolt that slips into the floor bracket should come up through the register opening of the wheel. The jack base goes in next, upside down so that you see the bottom of the base. Then the hook goes in laying on its side with the threaded bolt going through the hole in the sides of the hook. The big threaded wing nut goes on next and you need to tighten everything FIRMLY. At this point the masonite panel goes on and what little is left of the threaded rod has the black painted metal retainer installed with the small wing nut holding the retainer and the masonite in place. The masonite will be 3/4-1" above the trunk floor. V8 cars got 7:00-13 tires as standard. It's possible that a 6:50-13 tire will be smaller enough to allow the masonite panel to sit flush. I'm betting that this basic spare tire well stamping has been carried over from the 1960-1962 cars, most of which got 6:50-13 tires.

The spring that you photo-shopped has the same hook at each end. The production spring has a larger hook with a much longer finger on the end that attaches to the jack ratchet.

Kevin!
I will try the new hook that I got to see if it is possible to place the hook on top of the base plate. In that case the problem would be solved.

Then the question would be if the spring with open ends could be placed with the jack handle pipe hanging down or poiting upwards!

 

[kmccabe56]

Kevin!
I will try the new hook that I got to see if it is possible to place the hook on top of the base plate. In that case the problem would be solved.

Then the question would be if the spring with open ends could be placed with the jack handle pipe hanging down or poiting upwards!

If this is the hook you're using, the hole in the face of the hook should fit over the threaded carriage bolt in the spare tire well. This will allow you to flip the mast of the jack over so that the spring will hook onto the bar in the ratchet that the hook locates on.

 

[65dartcharger]

If this is the hook you're using, the hole in the face of the hook should fit over the threaded carriage bolt in the spare tire well. This will allow you to flip the mast of the jack over so that the spring will hook onto the bar in the ratchet that the hook locates on.

Kevin, Dan and everybody else! Thanks for your advice. Mission completed regarding the spare tire, base and hook. This is the way it should be! Thanks so much! :coffee2:

How the mast was hooked up is another story. It would like to have the rachet on the upper side but that depends on how the factory spring looks like.

I think slantsixdans idea is the way to go! If I can find a factory spring then I might be able to figure out how is was mounted in the trunk.

 

[65dartcharger]

Took pictures today inside my 65 Dodge Dart GT
Hope they are of value.

Thanks once again! Now I know how the spring looks like!

 

[kmccabe56]

Thanks once again! Now I know how the spring looks like!

Flip the mast over. Attach the small hook end of the spring onto the tire iron/jack handle and the big hook end of the spring onto the bar with the jack hook retainer spring on it, on the mast to the other end. Flip the ratchet lever to "raise" and tension the spring to hold the mast and the jack handle tight. The spring doesn't attach to the retainer in the floor. The tire iron will rattle if you don't attach the spring to it.