1965 Dodge Dart GT Question

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CoronetRTguy

CoronetRTguy

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So tell me what I need to know and what questions I should ask when calling about this car.

I have seen it on Craigslist for a while now off and on and I keep thinking I should call about it.

http://richmond.craigslist.org/cto/3123279521.html

I just have no idea on the early A body cars. I'm also looking at a 71 Road Runner that is in need of a full restoration but the metal work will be done on that car for $4600.

I'm looking at making an offer if I can get someone to look the car over for me and if it checks out I may see if I can pick it up.

My plans on the car is to keep the wheels I dig them or maybe add rally wheels later on.

I'm looking at it being an driver and and everyday driver not a show car (never going down that road again).

I want to have some fun mod it out a little and enjoy it like crazy or what ever car I get.

So I guess just tell me what questions I should ask and if it has a fender tag what should I look for to find out if its a real GT or not?

Thanks everyone.
 
Looks like a solid car. Price is good too, anything under 3k is stealing it. Check for rust in the quarters, floors, ect.
 
Rockerdude said:
Looks like a solid car. Price is good too, anything under 3k is stealing it. Check for rust in the quarters, floors, ect.
Click to expand...

Thanks I wasnt sure of what and where to ask about places they rust out bad.

I know the car has been on and off CL for about six months or more. I really like it and would set it up to be a classic street car from back in the day to do some street racing but a daily driver.

I really dig this car it has held my attention for a while.

So if there is any hidden areas I should check out let me know. Thanks
 
According to the description and photos it looks like a nice ride. Like Rockerdude mentioned, look for rust holes in the lower 1/4's and the floors. You won't be able to lift the carpet but just look under the car with a flashlight. The spare tire well in the trunk can also be a spot to look for especially with the luggage rack installed. The VIN # will tell you whether it is a true GT car. I'm sure it is because there is a lot of work to fill the molding holes if it were changed from a 170 or 270 model. Just search here or or Google "65 Dart vin" for more info. The price is right for what it is. Good luck. tmm
 
To me it looks like a decent car.

The usual rust places on 65 Darts are the rear quarters, lower trunk lid, upper cowl (due to leafs, dirt etc), front frame, trunk floor, lower rear front fenders, front lower door corner and front and rear floor.

According to the picture it looks like the car was originally equipped with 273 HP. It has the cut-out on the left side on the rear valance panel.

It you have the fendertag and all the codes I can decode it for you.

Good luck
 
As I understand, "GT" was just a trim level and some even had slant six engines. All GT's had bucket seats and floor shifter.

The car is special since, as mentioned, it had the rear cutout for the exhaust that only the 273 Hi-Po engines had (AllPar article, I recall), and special finned valve covers. Unfortunately, it appears the engine was changed. Check the casting characters on the driver's side of the block. In 1965, they did not list engine size, so if you see "318", "340", or "360" you know it is wrong. There should be a "65" in the characters as I recall. You will also find an engine stamp w/ "273" on the machined flat pad at the front of the driver's side head (if heads weren't swapped). The reason I suspect changes is that it has a later exhaust manifold (Magnum engine?) and the intake is probably for the later heads w/ 45 deg bolt holes. The 1965 273 had intake bolts ~16 deg off vertical. Some people (me) have hogged out the holes on a later intake to make it fit, which would be obvious.

Re price, I paid $1000 for my 65 Dart GT w/ regular 273 engine. It was rougher, but no big rust-thrus other than the passenger floor. It all depends on what you can live with. When I find the typical "black spray bomb over rust" in the engine bay, I feel compelled to strip and sand to clean metal, so the prior owner's "improvements" have negative value. I can't tell from the photos exactly what you would get. I separately bought similar Cragar wheels for $400, so up the value. Ditto for carpet $120, headliner $100, seats (up to $700), etc. That luggage rack is cool. I wonder if an original option or taken from a Mustang.
 
Thanks everyone.


BillGrissom said:
As I understand, "GT" was just a trim level and some even had slant six engines. All GT's had bucket seats and floor shifter.

The car is special since, as mentioned, it had the rear cutout for the exhaust that only the 273 Hi-Po engines had (AllPar article, I recall), and special finned valve covers. Unfortunately, it appears the engine was changed. Check the casting characters on the driver's side of the block. In 1965, they did not list engine size, so if you see "318", "340", or "360" you know it is wrong. There should be a "65" in the characters as I recall. You will also find an engine stamp w/ "273" on the machined flat pad at the front of the driver's side head (if heads weren't swapped). The reason I suspect changes is that it has a later exhaust manifold (Magnum engine?) and the intake is probably for the later heads w/ 45 deg bolt holes. The 1965 273 had intake bolts ~16 deg off vertical. Some people (me) have hogged out the holes on a later intake to make it fit, which would be obvious.

Re price, I paid $1000 for my 65 Dart GT w/ regular 273 engine. It was rougher, but no big rust-thrus other than the passenger floor. It all depends on what you can live with. When I find the typical "black spray bomb over rust" in the engine bay, I feel compelled to strip and sand to clean metal, so the prior owner's "improvements" have negative value. I can't tell from the photos exactly what you would get. I separately bought similar Cragar wheels for $400, so up the value. Ditto for carpet $120, headliner $100, seats (up to $700), etc. That luggage rack is cool. I wonder if an original option or taken from a Mustang.
Click to expand...

I looked on allpar to find some info and some other sites and I thought I would ask here because you guys know a lot more then any other site and that includes allpar.

I kept trying to look at the rear valance to see what they were talking about.

I doubt I will be able to look at the car in person but if I can get it for the right price I may pick this one up. I really like and would like to turn it a street car for daily use and also make it look like it would scare any big and small block car.

I have always liked the early A body cars and this one just caught my eye.

I'm going to try and text to get more info and pics see what he has to say. I'm also heading to class so it may be a while before I can post any info.

Also does the paint look factory?
 
The missing candy cane moldings around the front grill will cost you $400 for a new pair from Layson's. Nice used ones are nearly impossible to find.
 
These cars came from the factory with 7.25" rear ends, drum brakes and small bolt pattern wheels (5 on 4"). The 7.25" won't take a lot of abuse so a common upgrade is to an 8.25 or 8.75 rear end which will often result in a large bolt pattern (5 on 4 1/2"). Common disc brake upgrades are kelsey hayes 4 piston disc brakes which retain the small bolt pattern or later model A-body disc brakes which are larger bolt pattern. Aftermarket wheel choices for the small bolt pattern are limited.
 
What is the biggest motor I can put in it with not much trouble. I'm thinking 383.

I also don't want to not have power stearing and I do want a power house motor to make the car a rocket ship.

I did find a 65 GT that a guy is selling for about 700 bucks he may part it out and it has a good grill in it. I could maybe get the grill for a few hundred bucks and misc other parts.

I'm still thinking about this car and I'm thinking daily driver car, may leave the 273 in it and just fix what neads to be done to it and make it look nice.

I hope to be going back to work next summer early fall after I complete my college classes. So I think this would be a perfect daily driver car and it would be cool to see it sitting in a parking lot full of hondas, fords and chevys and what ever else.

I still keep thinking what ever mopar I buy next just using it for a daily driver (not in snow, ice or rainy days) and having a back up for bad weather like snow. I'm even thinking of 20k plus car as a daily driver.

Why buy a new car to only enjoy it while its new why not the classic car I've always wanted and drive it daily.

I watched a guy drive a 70 RR convertiable everyday snow, rain and ice and I always thought crazy man, thats just crazy but maybe he had the right idea.
 
A BB engine (383, 400) will barely fit, but isn't a trivial swap. You must get custom motor mounts, change the transmission, probably the drivetrain, and the rear end if you want it to last. I think you can only fit manual steering. Would likely want front disk brakes too. I don't know if an RB (413, 440) engine would fit. Check the Big Block forum, plus www.bigblockdart.com.

You can't use high flow headers w/ a BB, so people say you end up with the same or less performance than a SB w/ good headers. If you want to cruise and look nice, why not keep the 273? There are many $80K performance V-8 cars today with <4.5 L engines. Some guys here run a 1/4 mile as fast as a BB by building their slant six with a turbo. Sure is more clever. If driving the car, think of gas prices.
 
Take a good look for ANY swelling or any sign of leakage around the windshield or rear window gaskets. If they are swelled it is due to rust and it is severe. AMHIK.
The moisture gets down onto the heater/outside air ducting and in my case there were BIG rust holes, unable to be reached unless you cut the out cowling off to repair.
 
My man keep it simple with early a bodies look at my 65 formula s, now a fully restored driver, just needing a paint job at this time! It now has a rebuilt 318 4bbl runs great will do 15.0 90mph 1/4 mile mostly stock at this point! I had a 66 14 yrs ago built 318 ran low 13's with head work and other slight mods! My current motor just has dual exhaust and mopar electronic ignition very simple street car. However, it has a well built 904 transmission, updated drivshaft with modern ubolts, rear has been rebuilt and is one size bigger with 14 inch wheels, mopar rally wheels! The front has disc brakes and master cylinder is upgraded to dual cylinder! This is a true street car and driver! The car has less than 500 miles on it and soon will be driven from Maryland to my new home in Chicago as I had to leave there for a while, I had some medical issues to recover from! Now healthy again and back to normal life and working again, the car will be back on the road soon! I am in process of switching title to Illinois and getting legal antique tags so Later this fall I shal go get her and bring her to my new home!! Mopar or No Car! The reality is the early dodge is much the same as the cuda, no room for big block, do not go overboard, keep it simple and enjoy the ride, it is light car no need for big heavy motor in the front! Trust me I drag raced alot back in the day, the 66 cuda was quite good street class, finished second place three years in a row at Great Lakes , been to Indy representing them regionally won some rounds had great fun! KISS methodology works with a body and they run quite quickly if you want it too!!!!!!!!! Enjoy the ride..............
 
My 65 was an original 273/4sp/GT car and came with an 8 3/4. 4" bp and 1 3/4" rear brakes were standard. Save yourself a lot of trouble and use what you'd spend installing a big block and do a stroker small block. Candy canes are tough, but not impossible, to find. They're pretty easily dinged. If it's been for sale for awhile, low-ball it and see what happens.

Oh yeah...be ready for the "what year is your Mustang?" questions too.:eek:ops:
 

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