1966/'69 A100 Twins Build

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Wow just Wow, that there was smart money! It would take me months to do that.
 
Finally got to northern Az and have my patch panel for the box.

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Enough messing around. The summer rains are all about done it’s time to get busy. About 8246 screw holes weld it up in the doghouse and a big old hole punched on the top of the battery box welded up. Time do hit the stuff that was sandblasted last month with some epoxy primer and get it done.

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Jim, do yourself a big favour and follow what I did to the doghouse recently. Instead of all those bolts and nuts on the two side panels, install some Rivnuts. That will make accessing the plugs and engine so much faster in future. I used 5/16" aluminium rivnuts, and the drill size for the square holes is so close, only a small skim comes off. I also bought some new SEMS bolts to make a nicer finish.

Pics below of the rivnuts in place. BTW - (for both side panels) the front top stud can stay - as it is easy to access even when the engine is hot. Also - the bottom front hole for a bolt will probably just need a tap run through it - already has a captive nut for 5/16" UNC.

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:thumbsup:
 
@kiwigtx is yours stock as far as what is mounted to the back of the doghouse? Do you know which of these is stock and what bolts to each?

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@kiwigtx is yours stock as far as what is mounted to the back of the doghouse? Do you know which of these is stock and what bolts to each?

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Mine has three holes along the top for the wiring straps that fold around the wiring loom.

Also have an extra hole or two that are random.

The holes you have on the bottom left (looking at it in this picture) will be for the starter solenoid and probably also to hold wiring - including that to the starter.

That hole you have in the middle looks off....like someone did that afterwards.

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I also suggest that when you fit the truck back together....install that rear piece of the doghouse before installing the transmission. It will be easier to line things up that way. Bolts & nuts are fine there - you shouldn't ever have to remove that panel.
 
Mine has three holes along the top for the wiring straps that fold around the wiring loom.

Also have an extra hole or two that are random.

The holes you have on the bottom left (looking at it in this picture) will be for the starter solenoid and probably also to hold wiring - including that to the starter.

That hole you have in the middle looks off....like someone did that afterwards.

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Where is your ballast resistor mounted?
 
Forgot about the other truck. Is that lone bolt to the left of the starter relay where the resistor goes? This truck has it mounted to the front housing near the /6 distributor, which I don’t think is correct. Also is that cardboard to make a nice spot in the insulation where the components are?


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I don't have a ballast resistor now. Since mine was a V8 when I got it, I wouldn't like to speculate where yours should go. I use a Ready-to-run distributor now, and so there is no ECU or resistor....also have an internal regulator alternator.

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from memory, the ballast resistor was behind the distributor.....it was all a bit hodge-podge whoever did the work before.
 
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1. Cardboard likely just to help insulate the terminals when removing or installing, and provide a small amount comfort from touching steelwork. Clip that arrow points to will support main 12V positive cable from battery box.

2. My best guess for Ballast resistor

3. I really don't get what that is for.

Added to this, there would have been some sort of soft insulation material all around the doghouse....these things get hot when you're cruising around.
 
@kiwigtx think about putting a bit of antiseize on those aluminum rivnuts. I have had the threads gall up on a few. Once thst rivnut starts to spin, then you will hate it!

Cley
 
Summer rains are over time to get busy. A quick sanding of the epoxy I put on it before the rains and a fresh layer so I can start skim coating filler in the morning and final blocking on this side.

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Jimmy likes this long block for the A100 he is testing for Black Diamond Blocks.. it is 24", ergonomic but heavy.... Factory original ripples highlighted with the block and 400 grit... Skimmed the lower section and blocked it out... This long block takes a man... Jimmy is not a man.. but Jimmy will be a man when this is over... Jimmy blocks for a few passes front to rear then he sits down and takes a break... he then makes a few more passes... and sits and takes a break.. Jimmy is not going to make a video until he can make it look like he can block all day...

It is bloody straight and with the hard backing it make the paper cut FAST.. it is worth the effort to say the least.

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Love that 24” Black Diamond Block. Makes fast work of making this straight. Even Shay was fascinated with it.

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Lots o work. (yes I know I need to recover a couple body lines)

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