1966/'69 A100 Twins Build

-
Tailgate is almost fitted. Needs a bit more hammering but I’m beat so time to walk away for a bit before I do something dumb. The 408 arrived today as well, thanks @Johnny Mac.


IMG_6915.jpeg


IMG_6916.jpeg


IMG_6917.jpeg


IMG_6918.jpeg


IMG_6919.jpeg


IMG_6920.jpeg
 
Tailgate is almost fitted. Needs a bit more hammering but I’m beat so time to walk away for a bit before I do something dumb. The 408 arrived today as well, thanks @Johnny Mac.


View attachment 1716228157

View attachment 1716228158

View attachment 1716228159

View attachment 1716228160

View attachment 1716228162

View attachment 1716228163
great gaps as always :thumbsup:
will you move the drivers side tailgate catch outwards a little to centre it over the tab in the body? the pass' side sits perfectly centred and i'm guessing that other side will bug you.
neil.
 
Tailgate is almost fitted. Needs a bit more hammering but I’m beat so time to walk away for a bit before I do something dumb. The 408 arrived today as well, thanks @Johnny Mac.


View attachment 1716228157

View attachment 1716228158

View attachment 1716228159

View attachment 1716228160

View attachment 1716228162

View attachment 1716228163
Gee whizz...that looks familiar.... :lol:

20180822_123355.jpg

20180822_145220.jpg

20180823_132000.jpg

20180824_195127.jpg

20180826_110126.jpg

20180826_110945.jpg

It does fit this way, and it goes in really easy if you take the time to undo the side brackets that hold the engine mounts. Make sure to lube the bolts for re-fitting them. A lift can take a lot of the hard work out of the engine install.
 
Looking really good now @Jim Kueneman - I haven't checked up on this thread in a while, so I have some back-reading to do.

Another shout-out to @Johnny Mac for setting up another member with what I know is a great engine. I am still extremely happy with mine after nearly six years now.
Still getting compliments on how well this angry little beast performs. :lol:

 
If I had that truck with that setup, I'd keep the dog box off, then I'd wind up deaf, and also wrecking it 'cause I'm just looking at the engine instead of the road...
Trust me....with an angry engine and the amount of wind noise from the most bull-fronted screen and the door design....deafness is not far away. :lol: I took mine on it's first road trip to the Beach Hop here in 2010, and with a 4.10:1 rear end, no door rubbers, no carpet and no cabin insulation.....my ears were nearly shot after 5 days. But it was a blast.
 
Since I can’t actually make any progress on anything else, and I have parts strung all over the place, waiting for a multitude of things to put them back together why not take something else apart! And of course it’s a search to find parts for these too. Called the@ normal Mopar steering gear places and nobody deals with truck boxes. I looked up part numbers for seals and I can’t find any new old stock so I have some from Grainger coming that are based on measurements. Fingers crossed. Everything else is cleaned up painted and restored. Just need the seals. Also need to either get a U-bolt clamp for an automatic or cut, the one off that has the three speed bracket. Anybody have the correct U-bolt clamp they part with? Interesting these boxes appear to be painted oxide red from the factory.



View attachment 1716220223

View attachment 1716220224

View attachment 1716220225

View attachment 1716220226

View attachment 1716220227

View attachment 1716220228

View attachment 1716220229

View attachment 1716220230

View attachment 1716220231

View attachment 1716220232
Hi Jim,
Been doing a load of back-reading to catch up again here.

Those steering boxes are rarer than Rocking-horse scat.....so I have contacted a local machine shop to see if they can help repair what I have as a spare. The bearing faces shown in the picture (your pic with arrows attached) show the most common and hardest part to repair. You need to either have someone build up and re-face the bearing surfaces - then heat treat, or try and re-face the bearing surface to suit the next size ball bearing up - which happens to be 8mm.

I have sourced the ball bearings here - OE size and the 8mm, and will attempt to have the surface re-faced.

The other thing is you may need to make your own gaskets if the originals are worn too much.

...and yes, mine were orange from original. Technology of these steering boxes is from the 1940's......there is nothing out there that is close to a retro-fit in case anyone suggest it. I have spent many hours over the past five years trying to find something close.
The closest I got was a special order reverse direction Vega Power steering box. Still a little bit big, but with soe adaptor plates it would work.

Vega box power labelled.jpg

 
Probably. summit has truck ones for $200
Another helpful hint if you're going for headers..... I just removed the Hooker Super Competition headers from my A100 this past week.

Reason: they take up too much real estate under the lid, and they generate a lot of heat. I swapped out to a set of Patriot Hugger style headers, and so far the heat soak os less, and they run about 40% quieter that the Hookers. The Hookers were also just about touching the side walls of the doghouse, so that was an issue also.

Please consider that when you look at headers....with the 408 power and torque output, the slight drop in scavenging power will hardly be noticed to the average driver. :)

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Patr...t-Tuck-Header-Mopar-Street-Rod-CC,301696.html

I bought mine bare and had them coated here in New Zealand - worked out a lot cheaper than the local thieves who import them, and even with shipping I still saved enough to buy another set. :rolleyes:
 
I have been happy with Lares on Conventional Mopar pumps and Gearboxes. But i have had Two Different A-100 boxes done by other vendors and was not Happy.(More play than i was expecting).If Lares is Shitty with these ,then who is available ? Steer n Gear ? I believe the problem is Lack of parts and Demand for the '64-'70 A-100 Steering gear.
I actually bought a rebuilt steering box from Carsteering back about 10 years now.....I didn't send a core back due to shipping costs. The box is fine and still in use to this day. I have adjusted it a bit, but it is possible to rebuild these boxes yourself if you have the right machinery.

The bearing faces are the key to it all being tight- it is not usual to wear out the gears before the bearing surfaces.
 
IMG_7025.jpeg
IMG_7026.jpeg
IMG_7027.jpeg
IMG_7028.jpeg
IMG_7029.jpeg
IMG_7030.jpeg
IMG_7031.jpeg
IMG_7032.jpeg
IMG_7033.jpeg
IMG_7034.jpeg


A little jewelery. Capital Metal in Tucson does it again. Wow. That bumper was mangled when they started. Only snag is waiting for the glass. Should be in a couple weeks.
 
Hi Ron! Jonny filled you in. How is the Satellite coming? Have not had and notifications of any posts in a while.
Hey Jim, doing a lot of odds and ends. You know as the resto gets near the end there are a lot of little things to get done. Having some issues with the rear quarter windows. The work great but are canted inwards. Have adjusted all 4 adjusters but off about 1/2 just at the forward edge but the rear is centered. I need to get a PHD in window alignment. Perhaps on one of your visits up here you can stop by and take a peek?
More updates will be coming.
 
It’s never over till it’s over. Blocked out the epoxy primer that I put down yesterday found a few low spots and a few edges that I did not like. Little bit of glaze little more blocking with 80 grit and a quick sand with 180 grit and it’s flat. Sprayed on a couple light coats of gray epoxy primer and tomorrow a couple coats of 2K primer to fill in scratches and do the final perfect blocking. I so wanted to shortcut this tailgate, but just couldn’t do it.

IMG_7140.jpeg
IMG_7141.jpeg
IMG_7142.jpeg
IMG_7143.jpeg
IMG_7157.jpeg
IMG_7158.jpeg
IMG_7159.jpeg
IMG_7160.jpeg
IMG_7161.jpeg
 
-
Back
Top