1966 Valiant Signet Convertible Resto

[daves66valiant]

In preparation of getting my car back soon and being a little bored I finally swapped out the M1 for the Eddy RPM Performer, put the Mighty Demon carb and fuel feed lines on, the ported mechanical fuel pump, FBO distributor, plug wires and FBO coil, Schumaker motor mounts and to top it all off a polished Barry Grant air cleaner. Good busy few hours today.

It's only a matter of time now. :toothy7:

 

[memike]

Looks real good Dave!!! :thumbup:
I always enjoyed this part,
In the shop!! just me and my small block. :toothy7:

 

[Dodgenut64]

are you doing a scoop or will it all clear the hood?

 

[Longgone]

I started my conversion on the center hump with an existing 4spd. and console. I riveted the new sheet metal in and used "Great Stuff" foam to filll the void. The two things that I`m having concerns with are the front console bracket and the old shifter position in the carpet.The front console bracket I simply bolted in (in case I need to move it) and I need to find a piece of carpet to patch the old shifter position when the carpet goes in. Otherwise all looks good. Here`s several pics of the process.

 

[daves66valiant]

Dude,
Looks really good. Yeah the shifter hole in the carpet is going to be a ***** to cover up I bet. Guess you may need to get a new carpet set if necessary. You could take the hole that you cut out for the new shifter hole and use it to plug the old hole I guess. Don't see why you could stitch that piece in with some nylon thread or even dental floss works great.

How much does that Dynamat run?

 

[Longgone]

I`m going to try to piece in the carpet I cut from the new opening but I suck at seaming carpet. The idea of stitching it in sounds feesible, thanks! The Dynamat was a 9 piece kit, each 18 x 32. I found a website called www.hifisoundconnection.com that had it for $124.95, so I called Summit, they beat the price by a buck, shipping was only $9.00, and I had it in two days. Nothing against hifisound ,I just like Summit. The Dynamat should help quiet and insulate things.

 

[daves66valiant]

I should use that stuff too. I'm having my painter coat the inside of my car with stuff that is similar to undercoating but more like rhino lining but much thinner/lighter. Then the dynamat would be perfect to deaden the header noise and heat. Might actually be able to hear some tunes.

 

[Longgone]

Dave, I just saw a video on youtube of three guys putting a hemi in a Roadrunner from underneath using a engine/trans stand and regular engine lift. They used the engine lift connected to the front frame rails or bumper(couldn`t tell which) and then slid the engine in from the side, lowering the car down over the stand. Bolted up in about 2.5 minutes. It looks like the way to go.

 

[daves66valiant]

Dave, I just saw a video on youtube of three guys putting a hemi in a Roadrunner from underneath using a engine/trans stand and regular engine lift. They used the engine lift connected to the front frame rails or bumper(couldn`t tell which) and then slid the engine in from the side, lowering the car down over the stand. Bolted up in about 2.5 minutes. It looks like the way to go.

I'm totally convinced it's the only way to go for us hobby guys. You have a link to youtube? I'm doing it this way for sure. I want to avoid the TTI headaches all together since everything will be out of the car. I think it's a brilliant. :headbang: Hell I've already bolted the headers and trans up to the engine once just for fun, now all I need to is bolt on the K and the discs. Presto...one man show. YOu know I'll have plenty of pics on this one.
-Dave

BTW how is the 5-speed coming along?

 

[Longgone]

I don`t have a link to the youtube video, I just saw it when watching a video that 9secsmallblock had posted in the racers forum about (good audio of a 408 in a parking lot). I get into youtube and get carried away. I don`t think the guys had the LCA`s on the K-member or any of the suspension which made the install really fast. I`m waiting on Keisler to finish the machine work on my bellhousing and slave cylinder. Seems they are busy and had to send out the items to a machine shop ,so things are moving slower than usual. After putting my carpet and seats in, it appears I`m going to have to make some changes to the sheet metal center hump. It`s pushed my right foot over enough that if I wear a wide shoe my foot gets caught behind the brake pedal when I go to brake. I`m probably going to make some changes after I get the trans installed, but just do the bare minimum on the center hump as far as any sheet metal alteration. I don`t want to change a lot there if I can help it because of the center console. I guess it`ll come together all in due time.

 

[daves66valiant]

Yeah I'm waiting to get the offset dowel pins before I can bolt on the pressure plate and clutch disc. You might want to ask Keisler to send you a set (0.007, 0.014 and 0.021) of offset dowels pins just in case you need them. I think you can return the ones you don't need. That will save you some time if you end up having to order them anyways.

I'm getting all the suspension parts powdercoated but I'll have plenty to do while that's being done.

 

[Longgone]

The bellhousing is en route with a set of offset dowels. I thought the same thing, and if I don`t need them I`ll just send them back. Don`t need to wait any longer than what I already have. I tried installing the master cylinder for the clutch the other day and couldn`t get the mounting bracket to align with the cylinder and the firewall hole. I finally called the tech guys and found out that they sent me the m/c for a B body. It`s always something!

 

[memike]

Hay Longgone!!
How is that nice barracuda of yours
I have not seen it since the contest. :toothy7:
To bad about the mix up on the m/c. :cussing:

 

[daves66valiant]

The bellhousing is en route with a set of offset dowels. I thought the same thing, and if I don`t need them I`ll just send them back. Don`t need to wait any longer than what I already have. I tried installing the master cylinder for the clutch the other day and couldn`t get the mounting bracket to align with the cylinder and the firewall hole. I finally called the tech guys and found out that they sent me the m/c for a B body. It`s always something!

Bummer that sucks :sign6: . Luckily you have the wilwood master to work with. I have a CNC'd one for the early a-body which is slightly different. Hope it works out as well as the Willwood unit.

On the carpet you can try the old heat gun and sandbag trick to get the carpet to mold to the floor and lay down better over the hump. I may have to do the same, my carpet is pretty tight. I think I will do a better job with the floor hump fabrication the 2nd time around. I don't think I really need to cut out as much as the template shows.

Let me know how the rest of your's goes in. :thumbup: Looks like you will be done before me for sure. It might be at least a month before I get my car back. Not holding my breath though. I've done practically all I can do to prepare for the homecoming.

 

[Longgone]

Hello Mike, the Barracuda`s been getting a heart/lung transplant this winter. As you would think, everything is taking longer than what it should. I`ve installed a new rotating assembly adding another 60 cubes( about 500ci. now), aluminum heads, bigger cam and of course the Keisler/Tremec 5 speed. I`ve been watching Dave to learn what I can about the 5 speed install. It should be nice when it`s all done and it`ll be the difference in trailering or driving the car to events. Oh, and thanks for your vote if I didn`t tell you already. I knew I did`t stand a chance and even making the big cut was a shock. There are so many really nice A-bodies here at FABO and I`m honored to be part of the community. Like Dave and so many of us here at FABO, we`re plugging away now so when the weather really breaks our cars will be ready. Speaking of ready......Dave, when does your car return from the painter?

 

[Longgone]

I was typing while you were, lol. I`m thinking of reworking the hump after I get the trans in , it does seem to be much more than needed. Seems almost a good beating with a BMFH would`ve cleared things enough. I was kinda` hoping you`d finish first so I could use your thread here as a guide. It looks like the hydraulic clutch is going to be some of the most involved of the transition.

 

[daves66valiant]

it's getting there. got more pictures last monday. everything is coming together nicely. hope the door jams will be done this week. maybe he can get the dash done and can bring it down to me so it's out of the way. The dash will be the same color but flat/satin finish. He has decided to blast the engine bay as well. I don't mind since he is going to smooth everything out. I'm thinking June I'll be on the road. I'm lucky to be in SoCal where the weather is nice 90% of the time.

 

[memike]

That sure sound great longgone. The barracuda will enjoy that for sure!
I hope Dave gets you in gear and makes it happen. :thumbup:

 

[daves66valiant]

good news. should have color on the jams, trunk and engine tomorrow. should have pics this friday. :headbang: looking forward to seeing how this color turns out.

been busy with detailing trim pieces and repaired the rear convertible panel. turned out pretty good. you can see the repair if you look closely. these things are rarely found without any cracks in them.
Before

After

got an AAR Hemi Dart scoop from an FABO member and have been working on the spare hood. plan on doing a flat black on the hood. should be a fun change up on the car. i can always go back to the original hood at any time. i'm trying out the roller method (was on moparts.com) as an experiment that's very cheap. $20 for all the stuff. we'll see how it turns out.

anyway, hope to be posting the base color soon.

 

[memike]

This is one of my favorite projects going on here at fabo. :coffee2:
That hood will look great Dave,
Just 63 hours from know I can see more. :blob:

 

[flyboy01]

good news. should have color on the jams, trunk and engine tomorrow. should have pics this friday. :headbang: looking forward to seeing how this color turns out.

been busy with detailing trim pieces and repaired the rear convertible panel. turned out pretty good. you can see the repair if you look closely. these things are rarely found without any cracks in them.
Before

After

got an AAR Hemi Dart scoop from an FABO member and have been working on the spare hood. plan on doing a flat black on the hood. should be a fun change up on the car. i can always go back to the original hood at any time. i'm trying out the roller method (was on moparts.com) as an experiment that's very cheap. $20 for all the stuff. we'll see how it turns out.

anyway, hope to be posting the base color soon.

:scratch: Roller method?!?!?!

 

[flyboy01]

Hey dave, if its not too late, I can tell you how to fix the crack in the panel so the grain covers the scratch and you cant see any repair at all. Let me know if you are interested.

 

[flyboy01]

Got a few things done today. Finished the tranny mount for the 904 if I ever decide to use it again. Turned out pretty well. Posted more pics in the early a-body discussion forum. Here is one.

Also decided to paint the intake manifold with Aluminum Dupicolor 1200* High Heat paint. Was going to powdercoat it but decided not too since I was going to get all the suspension parts done in black. Would have cost and extra $85 to do just the intake in silver. Was cheaper to do it this way and I could always recoat if necessary. Looks pretty good to me. Just trying to keep busy with little stuff while I continue to wait on my car. :sad:

Another option is one I have used. You can have someone beadblast the intake clean, then spray it with a product called Diamond-clear, they have a satin and a gloss version. It is specifically designed for coating bare metal and protecting it from corrosion. I have used it on all my brake parts and I'm going to use it on my RPM intake as well.

 

[daves66valiant]

Another option is one I have used. You can have someone beadblast the intake clean, then spray it with a product called Diamond-clear, they have a satin and a gloss version. It is specifically designed for coating bare metal and protecting it from corrosion. I have used it on all my brake parts and I'm going to use it on my RPM intake as well.

I'd be interested in making the panel look better. I used a leather glove and pressed it into the wet paint a few times to get a pattern. If I can find a better grain pattern that would be great. Maybe I could get some reminent from an upholstry shop. What's your option?

The Diamond clear stuff from Eastwood would work good I guess. I wanted something with a very high heat rating. I baked the intake after I painted it.

Here is the link to the roller method. http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2331682&an=0&page=3#Post2331682 Very long thread. 45 pages I think. I could spray it but can't deal with the cleanup and overspray mess right now. It's an experiment to see how it works. :-|

 

[daves66valiant]

This is one of my favorite projects going on here at fabo. :coffee2:
That hood will look great Dave,
Just 63 hours from know I can see more. :blob:

Thanks again Mike. I can hardly wait that long.