1967 Dart alignment help!

[Redhelmet]

Hi everyone I'm back! I finished the disc brake conversion I had posted about a while back with my dad. Unfortunately after, seeing as we also had to mess with the torsion bar adjusting bolts, the cars alignment is all out of wack. Besides those bolts not being exactly where they were prior, and the new spindles, upper and lower ball joints, nothing else was touched and is all stock.

I have been waiting and worried about getting an alignment. This is my first car and I am not sure what to expect with an alignment shop. My parents found a few places that said they have "the right specs for my car in their computer". I just wanted to post and check with all of you if stock specs that they would have would be what I need or what I should be telling an alignment shop or looking for in one. Any info would be great. Also I'd like the front end to be lower than it was prior to the brake swap not sure if that messes with anything.

Let me know specs or anything, Thank you all.

-Vince

 

[Oldmanmopar]

When ever you work on the front suspension that was never touched in a while you should change all your rubber bushings.
Upper control arm bushings, all 4
Lower control arm bushings, 2
strut rod bushings , 2 one piece bushings on a 67 they pushed in from the rear. rear of the K-member

When reassembling the upper control arms the bolts are installed with the front eccentric bolts straight up and the rears straight out . This is the pre adjustment for alignment.

when tightening the upper control arm bolts and the lower control arm pins put the suspension in the center of the bump stops/ travel or you will tear the bushings when letting it down.

when setting the height do it with the car on a jack in the middle of the rear. so the rear springs or floor do not affect the level in the front. Sort of like a tripod or a wheel barrow. There is a measurement for the front height . It is the difference between the bottom of the lower ball joint and the lower control arm bushing pin. You can raise or lower it a little from there for your desired height doing equal turns on each side. Level the car with one of the end stabilizer links off if you have a stabilizer bar,


One more thing when installing disc brakes on a 67 the calipers should be mounted toward the rear of the spindle 72 on back toward the rear 73 and newer toward the front. Even if your installing big bolt 73 and newer disc on a 67 suspension they mount toward the rear not the front. Also do not use 3 piece strut bushings with a metal sleeve unless you are using 73 and up coarse thread strut rods . The rods are a different length and will move the wheel back and throw the alignment way out. Hope this info helps.

 

[mvh]

What you and your local shop may not know is that the front ride height setting (described by oldmanmopar) needs to be done FIRST. Here are some typical alignment settings appropriate for modern tires. The factory specs with positive camber and minimal caster (not even shown on this chart) are not really what you want to run today. The second line is where I have my cars set up, except I got a little more caster by using the Moog offset bushings (about +3º). I also dropped the front ride height by about 1/2 inch so it's level with a full tank and driver weight.