1967 Dodge Dart 270

-
I am really trying to document before and after stuff. I really want to get it cleaned up, apart, and check for the things that need replaced. Already doing new gaskets and seals. I am also considering trying to figure out how I can do a citric acid flush of the cooling system. I need to check out the effects on cast iron though. I know with steel and stainless it creates a protective coating that resists rust. It is something we do at work on large scale cooling systems. Will see if it needs new bearings or cam once I get it apart. The engine only had 86k on it. Not too bad for a 54 year old car. We've decided to keep it original for now. May convert it to a Charger/Commando in the future. Who knows?
 
Started the disassembly of the engine today. Glad I pulled it. #7 intake push rod is bent. The lifter and rocker are free so I am thinking it is the valve that is stuck. Also took a good look at the cylinder walls. #4 has a vertical scratch in it. :mad: I was hoping to get by with a hone and not have to bore it out. Cam is shot. Looks like the dog got a hold of it. I am not sure if the discoloration is normal for an 54 year old cam/lifter set. Going to pick up a puller for the harmonic balancer tomorrow after work and try to get the lower portion apart and get a look at the bearings and journals.
20210615_184327.jpg
20210615_191452.jpg
20210615_191502.jpg
20210615_200513.jpg
20210615_200520.jpg
20210615_200528.jpg
20210615_200550.jpg
20210615_211500.jpg
20210615_211536.jpg

20210615_213347.jpg
 
I didn't realize those early 273's had closed chamber heads! I knew they took different intake manifolds, but that was all I knew.
 
From what I have seen so far in my research, it is just the 1967 273s and 318s that have the 2658920 head casting with the closed chamber heads. I am not sure if the earlier casting numbers had open or closed chambers. I was pretty happy to find them on it.
 
Tear down complete. Now to clean and wait for the proper measuring tools to get here. Not going to go crazy with the cleaning as the block and heads are going to the machine shop to be corrected and cleaned. We'll see what the machine shop says about the scratch in the #4 cylinder. The rest of the block and crankshaft looks to be in good condition but I am pretty sure it will need to be bored. Now to decide what direction I want to take the engine. Rebuild stock or kick the HP up a notch. Thinking of putting the domed pistons in with the Isky E4 cam and LD4B/600CFM carb combo. Not sure if the 7 1/4 rear end will hold up though. I am not racing or anything, just a cruising-mobile. I really do want to make it a bit more spicy.
20210620_185000.jpg
 
Sean, I’m sure the experts will chime in soon but here are my 2 cents. I would increase the performance where I could without getting crazy or spending too much cash. I don’t really see why you’d choose a stock rebuild. The 273 isn’t a torque monster. But I think you could warm it up some and make it a little more fun for cruising, yet still be fine with your 7 1/4 rear.
 
Last edited:
Main reason I would want to do a stock rebuild is because the car is entirely original and to keep it as close as I can. Main reason I want to spice it up is because inside this 47 year old body beats the heart of a 20 year old. :lol:
 
It's been a bit. Job has picked up so work on the car has slowed down. Engine is coming along nicely though. All the important measurements taken. Engine is still well within tolerance and had very little wear. Parts have been researched and priced, and cleaning is coming along. Been cleaning small parts in the ultrasonic I used to use for pistol brass. Large items have been going in a makeshift hot tank with degreaser and hot water. Working pretty well so far. It is my old turkey fryer so can't get the block in there sadly. Nothing really pretty to look at just yet but we should start putting it all back together by the end of the month. Going to buy the parts on batches to save the wallet. We (my wife...lol) have decided to keep it as close to stock as we can. Reusing as much of the old parts as I can. Ended up going with a stock 318 cam to replace the chewed up original. Any thoughts on cleaning up the intake with a media blaster? My main concern is getting all the media out afterwards.
 
Last edited:
Today was both rewarding and disappointing. Got The rest of the valves cleaned up, the valves lapped, freeze plugs put in, pistons put back together, rings checked for gap and installed, and crank journals polished. The disappointment came from the fact that my gasket kit and main bearings were supposed to be here today but are delayed. I have everything else I need at this point (I hope.) Here's to hoping they are here tomorrow. Excited to start getting this thing back together. Took some pics but phone is almost dead. I will post them once it is charged and I am showered.
 
Nice. I hope that 360 is in good shape. I actually ran across a 1955 331 Hemi on Facebook Marketplace and thought about it for a week or two. Decided if I was going to do an engine swap it would be for something bigger and probably newer. I wanted to go resto mod with it in the first place. I am going to keep working on it and drive it as is for now, to decide whether this is "the car." If so, I already have a long expensive list of what I wanted to do with it in the first place. Wife wants a 70-74 Barracuda which I would not be opposed to either.
 
The rest of the engine stuff got here today.....sort of. Ordered A FELPRO gasket set and it only came with 7 intake valve oil seals. Ran to NAPA tp pick up an extra. Was time to make dinner when I got home, then a case of the itis once I ate. So tomorrow there will be at least part of an engine together. Gonna start with the heads, then rotating assembly and go from there. I want to clean everything again. Thinking of using lacquer thinner since that's what I have. Anyone know of a reason why I shouldn't? EDIT: I'm an idiot. Just did a google search for using lacquer thinner to clean engine parts and got my answer. Must be the baked potato soup clogging the blood flow to my brain.
 
Last edited:
Got a late start today. Adulting and all. Anywho, got the heads reassembled and learned an interesting fact and some lessons learned about the process that I figured I should share. A bore snake for a .308 winchester :elmer: is the perfect size to clean out the valve guides. Just make sure it has copper scrubbers on it. I hosed it with brake cleaner to clean it out, then WD-40 and ran it through a couple of times, working back and forth once the scrubber was through. The scrubber is designed to go through one way so don't try to pull it back through. Leave some slack in the side you are not pulling on to keep the snake expanded in the guide. They came out beautiful and once the valves were cleaned and installed they moved smooth as butter. Also got the crankshaft and number one piston installed. Took my time with everything making sure it was all super clean. The lacquer thinner worked great. Probably won't get to more assembly until next Friday as work takes most of my time during the week. I had a load of fun though. way better than just cleaning parts.
20210919_211527.jpg
20210919_211534.jpg
20210919_211542.jpg
20210919_211516.jpg
20210919_223230.jpg
20210919_230356.jpg
 
Last edited:
Got a little further on the engine today. Got all the pistons in and torqued. Once torqued, rotating assembly didn't want to move. Turned out I had the #5 rod on backwards. corrected that and now it moves pretty well. Also got the cam in, the timing components mounted, and the heads on. Got one of the rocker arms mounted and determined that with the hydraulic lifters, the push rods are too long. Even with the adjustable rockers. Stopped assembling the valve train and got the front main seal in and the water pump mounted to the timing cover. So that's where it sits now. Going to get an adjustable pushrod to determine how long they need to be, then order the proper length.
20210926_153946.jpg
20210926_153957.jpg
20210926_154003.jpg
20210926_154016.jpg
20210926_170759.jpg
20210926_170811.jpg
20210926_184811.jpg
 
Is that white assembly grease on the cam? Probably not the best choice. I also have a 67 Dart 270, mine only has 74000 miles on it, runs like a new one, So I'm leaving it alone for now.
 
It is. The cam came out of a 318 and got about 50 miles on it before the water jacket on the block cracked so it should be hardened already. I have the locations each of the lifters came out of the donor engine and they all went in the proper locations. I also thought about pouring oil over it before I seal up the intake. This 273 has 86k. It had a stuck valve, bent pushrod, and was burning oil pretty badly. We'll see how it comes out.
 
That engine looks good, i like the internals, the heads, valve reliefs on the pistons etc... good stuff.
 
Thank you. It has been a real learning experience rebuilding this engine. It is complicated, but much simpler than I though it was going to be. Definitely been fun and I am sure the pay off will come once it is running again.
 
Got more engine assembly done today. Got the new pushrods and installed them. Put the rockers on and set the lifter preload (hopefully correctly). Got the timing cover and water pump on. Got the oil pump rebuilt and mounted. Got the oil pan on. The intake needs a better cleaning as does one of the valve covers. Plan to get that done next weekend along with a fresh coat of Chrysler Industrial Red and if there is time, design and build a storage/test stand.

20211003_122757.jpg


20211003_122812.jpg


20211003_122833.jpg


20211003_145502.jpg


View attachment 1715800523

20211003_164036.jpg


20211003_164055.jpg


20211003_164014.jpg
 
Last edited:
Well, spent yesterday cleaning up some of the smaller parts. Brackets, linkages, ect... I used my wet tumbler with stainless steel pins as media. I usually use it for cleaning my brass. Results in the pics below. Also got the engine completely together and masked for painting. Plan on throwing down some Chrysler industrial red tomorrow afther the intake sealant has had enough time to set up. Satin black for brackets and pulleys and such. Then on to a wooden run stand so I can test it out and check for leaks before dropping it back in the car. Will definitely post again once it's painted.
20211008_125439.jpg
20211008_125811.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top