1968 318 water pump?

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shawndao

shawndao

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I am putting a 1968 318 engine in my 70 dart swinger....the 68 318 water pump has the inlet on the drivers side, and my radiator connection is on the passenger side.....will a 70 318 water pump fit on the 68 318, since it has the correct orientation???? any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
Shawn
 
You can change the water pump but you should also change the timing cover, intake bypass nipple, and vibration damper.
 
The nipple/hose and the marks will now both be on the pass side but aim the light just right to time it. The later alum pump is longer so slightly longer bolts may be needed to get the right thread engagement and the pulley alignment will need some adjusting but both easily taken care of
 
Timing off #6 is fine (on a 6 cyl too),, it's being able to see the marks, which the lower hose may hide..
 
pishta said:
That or time it off #6! Try it.....
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inertia said:
Timing off #6 is fine (on a 6 cyl too),, it's being able to see the marks, which the lower hose may hide..
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No1 and no6 time off the same timing marks, IE "normal" TDC. I've no idea how far offset the marks are when mixing / matching early / late timing covers, or if they even line up with anything.

The issue is seeing the timing marks through the mess of belts and hoses, not which cylinder the wire is hooked to.
 
I might be wrong, but i thought the balancer marks were 90* different from the early to late setups? I know you guys will let me know.....

Maybe time for a well placed timing tape. :D
 
An easy fix for the timing mark when you're using the older style water pump with the new cover is to make a new timing tab. Just line your harmonic 0' mark with the mark on the front cover as you normally would. Then make a new indicator on the other side of the motor and align the 0' mark of the timing tape to it. It's inexpensive and you'll have the new indicator in a location that isn't hidden by your lower radiator hose and power steering.

View attachment IMG_0633.jpg

But in your situation you're doing the opposite. You'll be using the newer style water pump with the older front cover. I would guess that the solution could be done similarly.
 
OldmanRick said:
I might be wrong, but i thought the balancer marks were 90* different from the early to late setups? I know you guys will let me know.....

Maybe time for a well placed timing tape. :D
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They're definately not the same,, I mentioned that in post 6,, and why I suggest keeping everything matching,, just change the outlet on the rad,, Last time I had it done was $40.. vs - a can of worms..

hope it helps
 
I had an 80's 318 in a 65 dart & used the early pump & kept the OE 80's (later style) tcover/dampener so I ended up with the tcover marks/dampener TDC slit/hose are all on the DR side. I could just see the marks if I aimed the light just right. Next time I would do as shown/described in the above pic: find exact TDC with the ten dollar tool in the plug hole and make a new pointer and a white paint mark on the dampener but I was able to time it (just barely) without changing anything but the pump which was nice at the time. Cut a strip of white paper measured with your calipers and 0.0632683" is (1) degree & use it as a ruler to make new marks and 5 marks (TDC) (10) (15) (20) and 35 (total) worked for me even tho I love my dialback I like to double check and dialbacks can be off a hair as the delay is electronically based on time and different dia dampeners the marks are moving farther in a given amt of time & whose to say if the light is made for a mopar 7&1/4" dia dampener. A bit picky maybe but I have noticed dialbacks can be off a degree. EDIT what 67 cuda said: line up the slit/zero on tab then make a new paint mark on the other side at your new pointer & no need to find exact TDC with the tool in the plug hole (unless you are blueprinting). With a timing tape be sure to clean the dampener well then install the tape then spray it with clear lacquer & let it dry thoroughly to insure it wont fly off which they have a tendency to do. MORE EDIT This might be wacky (my coffee ain't ready) but you might time it off of #8 plug wire which would make it flash 90 deg later and the dampener slit would have rotated 90 deg CW & it'd be on the DR side & just add a pointer :)
 
OldmanRick said:
I might be wrong, but i thought the balancer marks were 90* different from the early to late setups? I know you guys will let me know.....

Maybe time for a well placed timing tape. :D
Click to expand...

That's the thing you can easily make one and it might have been wrong anyhow, either manufacturing tolerance, or "slipped" balancer ring. 20 minutes with a piston stop.......................
 
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