1968 Barracuda Rallye Dash gauge lenses removal

[Traxfish]

The original gauge lenses are scratched up, stained, and one of the decorative center pieces was broken off and lost before I got it. I got replacements, but need to figure out how to best remove the originals without damaging anything. I recall finding a guide somewhere but can't remember where or what it said. The originals are glued on with some kind of low temp plastic. I don't want to have to buy a whole new dash bezel because I took the wrong approach removing the originals. What's the best way to remove them?

 

[Super-Cuda]

Hey Traxfish,

I have done this many times.

First, you need to get a soldering iron, preferably pencil type, 40 watts with a flat spade tip. About 15-20 bucks.

Heres a pic of the tip.

Then, carefully melt the edges of the plastic post that inserts into the guage lens and carefully detach it.

Put the replacement lens back on the posts and using the iron, re-melt the post into the plastic housing of the lens.

Works great!

BTW: The old lens is probably reuseable, It's amazing what some compound and plastic polish can do to recover them!

 

[Mattax]

The plastic is ABS.
If there is not enough plastic on a stake after reinstall, a tiny dab of ABS cement (such as used for plumbing ABS DWV) will do.

 

[CUDACOX]

I have used crazy glue in the past.

 

[Oldmanmopar]

Find some old model kit tree left overs and use them for welding rods with the solder gun.

 

[ricomondo]

I just went through this with the 71 Demon. Used a soldering iron to melt the plastic as stated above. Got repop lenses from PG Classics.
Didn’t wanna risk screwing them up with the soldering iron so I used JB plastic weld. It worked wonderfully! It’s thick and you can use it to “build up” the material. They are locked in nice and secure to the bezel.

 

[Traxfish]

I just went through this with the 71 Demon. Used a soldering iron to melt the plastic as stated above. Got repop lenses from PG Classics.
Didn’t wanna risk screwing them up with the soldering iron so I used JB plastic weld. It worked wonderfully! It’s thick and you can use it to “build up” the material. They are locked in nice and secure to the bezel.

Thanks for the advice! I have the same gauge lenses to install, and found a few issues with the bezel in the form of broken guide pegs and some of the warning light lenses fell out as the hot melt adhesive holding them on peeled off. The guy who previously "restored" the dash used masking tape to hold them on and it caused further problems and I'd like to do a better job.

Can JB Plastic Bonder be removed with a soldering iron? It's described as permanent but I'd rather use something removable in case this ever has to be done again.

 

[Super-Cuda]

Thanks for the advice! I have the same gauge lenses to install, and found a few issues with the bezel in the form of broken guide pegs and some of the warning light lenses fell out as the hot melt adhesive holding them on peeled off. The guy who previously "restored" the dash used masking tape to hold them on and it caused further problems and I'd like to do a better job.

Can JB Plastic Bonder be removed with a soldering iron? It's described as permanent but I'd rather use something removable in case this ever has to be done again.

That's exactly why I didn't use adhesive of any kind, especially crazy glue.

I really like oldmanmopar's idea of using plastic posts from models. That would work very well I think.

I have done this at least 10 different times and using the solder iron gets the best results as its close to how the factory did it.

 

[Mattax]

exactly. abs cement is mostly abs combined with chemical solvents that melt it. using solvents like acetone some people call chemical welding because the process is joining the original materials. the hot iron provides a lot more control than a thin liquid, especially on disassembly its got to be the first choice.

edit - ps I have not done this 10 times. just agree with Andrews's explanation.
If I had to do my instrument panel over, I would have removed the lenses myself rather than let the plastic chroming company do it. As it was I had to go in and do some touch up using the thick ABS cement.
Also I've made a fair share of plastic repairs on my '85 AMC Grand? Wagoneer and the JB Weld 2 part bonding for the most part did not hold up under the stresses. Permatex was better but for the ABS components - disolving or using ABS cement for bonding has been the best. I have not (yet) experimented with heat but OMM's suggestion will be a part of that when I do.

 

[Traxfish]

This may be too obvious to be a good solution, but would a hot glue gun be a good solution if the remainder of whatever the factory used isn't sufficient to hold down the lenses?

 

[ricomondo]

Thanks for the advice! I have the same gauge lenses to install, and found a few issues with the bezel in the form of broken guide pegs and some of the warning light lenses fell out as the hot melt adhesive holding them on peeled off. The guy who previously "restored" the dash used masking tape to hold them on and it caused further problems and I'd like to do a better job.

Can JB Plastic Bonder be removed with a soldering iron? It's described as permanent but I'd rather use something removable in case this ever has to be done again.

@Traxfish I'm unsure if a soldering iron would remove this JB plastic bonder?
I have used this material several times with no issues holding on the interior of a car.