1969 Daily Driver

-
Good for you Shane! Its funny... Im sitting 20 ft from a new Acura NSX and 50 ft from 2 GT3s right now but I get more excited looking at your Moredoor survivor!

BTW... Thanks again for the rockin deal on those solid rollers! Cant wait to put them to use.

No problem man, That is what Crower has been missing is a real Mopar man. I am there only to bring up the Mopar game at Crower.
 
Got the exhaust done today. It is stock diameter to the new 2 1/4 muffler and 2 1/4 pipe up and over axle. Muffler is a turbo muffler and I love that old school sound.

dart4.jpg


dart5.jpg


dart6.jpg
 
Cool deal, man. Great score. There's something really cool about using these cars as intended for the seemingly mundane driving chores. It makes them less mundane and is such a treat to see my old mopar parked on a city street or shopping mall parking lot. I ditched my modern driver a few years ago for a 73 /6 Dart. To say it's a "daily" driver is not quite accurate, I've got a "late model" 1994 Ford van for work (I'm a painting contractor) , but the Dart takes me everywhere else after hours, rain, shine, or snow. Even took me 8,300 miles cross country last year without a hitch.
A few other points for making a reliable driver. I inspect or replace EVERYTHING that could leave me stuck: belts, hoses,vacuum hoses, brakes, lights, ignition, starter relay, ballast resistor, voltage regulator, water pump, etc, etc,etc. Don't overlook the less obvious like throttle return springs, and clips for your tranny linkage etc. I keep the known good take off parts in the trunk with a tool kit, some spare wire, electrical tape, butt connectors for making repairs, fluids, rags, latex gloves etc. Nothing ruins the novelty and enjoyment of an old driver like being stuck in a parking lot somewhere over something easily fixed but not having the stuff on hand to get it done. Also, go over any visible wiring for loose, dirty, corroded connections or cracked wiring,
Also, don't overlook the things that many fair weather only cars often get by without: working defrost/defogger and other HVAC features, working parking brake system, windshield washers and wipers etc. They will make thing more enjoyable as well as safe.
You're in California, so I won't get into the steps I use to guard against winter driving perils to the cars sheet metal.
Anyway, hope you enjoy the experience as much as I and others here have.

Al

Everything works but the AC unit. I have a 1967 donor car that has great parts but the body is falling apart. That is going to be a step by step for this summer.
 
Funny how we get about 50 year old cars. lookin' good ! More photos please. I wish my Valiant was a Slant ! I love 'um. Got to get me one soon.
 
You can also see that I got new tires for the thing also. This car is still new so I don't have a name for her/him yet. Don't have a clue if its a buddy or a *****.
 
Got rid of that big starter and added a little speed thru weight reduction. ha ha ha. In reality as I am putting together my race car, the old starter for that car is just not strong enough to spin a 14-1 422 small block, it now is going to see duty in a 1969 slant six. This is why I love mopars, a starter from a 1994 dodge magnum at your local auto parts store for 90 bucks "lifetime warranty" is almost the same as those expensive high torque mini starter.

dart7.jpg


dart8.jpg
 
Another update, today the 1969 Daily drive slant 6 has now graduated to kid duty. Getting the exhaust out the back really helped that. The last two pics are of the dart and the donor car which is a 1967 dart. This dart has a **** body "**** body for california" but has already be converted to power disk, the AC works and the interior is MINT. Now if someone is missing something let me know this car is getting striped as I go.

dart10.jpg


dart11.jpg


dart12.jpg
 
[QUOTE This car is still new so I don't have a name for her/him yet. Don't have a clue if its a buddy or a *****.[/QUOTE]

It's your buddy til it leaves you stranded. : D

Man that thing is CLEAN underneath.

And that "**** body" looks really good from where I'm sitting in the snow covered North East ; )
 
This is a big thank you to slantsixdan. Here is the problem that I have been having after installing the HEI conversion, pinging. This was only a problem going up hills over 65 MPH. I started trying to fix it by backing off timing, at 2 degrees after the car was a little sluggish off the line but still pinged after 20 miles of drive then going up hill. I was thinking that it was running lean so I hooked up my wide band to the tail pipe just for a quick read and that was slightly lean 13-1 but not to cause that. Then I thought maybe with the hotter spark I needed a cooler plug so I started dropping temp on the plugs and that still did nothing. Last night I was up late just surfing the web and slantsixdan had a link on some random link that said "If you have spark plug tubes that you should remove the crush washer because it would insulate the heat and cause pinging." Also he said that "You should use NGK plug ZFR5N stocking #3459, because this plug will project into combustion chamber better." Well first thing this morning I did just that and BOOM no more pinging and it has more power. Win Win. Hey that is what these forms are for learning from people who know and I know nothing about tuning these engines. So thanks again slantsixdan.
 
Last edited:
[QUOTE This car is still new so I don't have a name for her/him yet. Don't have a clue if its a buddy or a *****.

It's your buddy til it leaves you stranded. : D

Man that thing is CLEAN underneath.

And that "**** body" looks really good from where I'm sitting in the snow covered North East ; )[/QUOTE]


Yeah the pics are angled just right "Like a selfie of most of the girls nowadays" to look as good as possible. If you need something off of it just let me know.
 
Last edited:
What's the story on the seats in the 67? I could use them in my daily. My seats are trashed. I have blankets over them so I don't end up covered in cotton every day. ;)

MVIMG_20171214_152508.jpg
 
So today I learned that with the almost 30 degrees of centrifugal advance there is two ways to tune the engine. Either get for driving around town with 7 degrees of initial and ping city on the freeway or...................2 degrees of initial which is a slug in town but great on the freeway. This means that I get to play with recurving the distributor. I got a pile of parts from santa that drive the brown truck today. I will be messing with this thing all week while Crower is closed.
 
Question about water pumps. Are they all the same? I was just going to get a lifetime warranty pump from the parts store. Is that a no no with these engines? Any and all inputs are welcome.
 
Truthfully with a slant I think they are all the same. Check to see if there is a A/C listing and a non A/C number.
 
Congrats on a fine more door!!
I have the hot for one cheap, BUT I still have too many 2 doors projects I know about , CHEAP! And every time i see a decent more door on CL it is too high or too far!! Ha
 
That is beyond cool, I think that is the 4 door version of my car. They seem to have been the same color and same everything except door count.

I daily drive a 68 dart 2 door and you are so correct in saying that new cars just don't cut it.

View attachment 1715120184
Ahhhh, looks just like My old "Thunderbooger"!!! '69 Dart Custom HT. What is the paint code/color on those? Mine was originally white, but the PO had it sprayed w/Imron
Green w/o any metallic/effect in it, but it was close to that shade...............
 
I'm working on it. Looking for a good engine that is less that 600 miles away.Everything is on the wrong side of the country.
 
So today I learned that with the almost 30 degrees of centrifugal advance there is two ways to tune the engine. Either get for driving around town with 7 degrees of initial and ping city on the freeway or...................2 degrees of initial which is a slug in town but great on the freeway. This means that I get to play with recurving the distributor.

Easy thing to do is go to www.4secondsflat.com and order a limiter plate for the distributor. P/N J685. Let's you set a decent amount of initial and limit the total. Easier than welding/filing slots.
 
So in the three days that I have been in isolation I have recurve a distributor. How I did it was get two distributors from o'reilly and i took the light springs from each one. Then the advance was a 13R that is 26 on the crank side. So I measured the open hole slot minus the the pin that gave me a numerical version of 0.015" per degree so I had 0.450" after pin and wanted it tightened up to 0.398" which would give me about 10 degrees of initial timing and 20 degrees of distributor. I used a simple math and a mig welder. Then I used home depot rat tail file to get the final dimension. Super easy. If yo have any questions on how to do this just ask. I did it in 30 minutes and was easy.
 
Last edited:
Here is a pic of the parts that I bought for converting and also the new coil wire you will need.
 
I have not posted in a while because nothing was wrong the car drives great ok mileage still working on that (18-20) right now. One day on the way home from Crower, remember that it is still 80+ degrees here in So Cal, i put on quite a show while in traffic. I am 40+ years old and have never had this happen to me before but the radiator blew. When I say it blew up it blew the bottom cap clean off. Funny thing is it never got hot before it blew and I only had a 16 pound radiator cap on it. It was the original and it gave almost 50 years of service so cant get mad at that. Car did not strand me either. I pulled over to make sure it was not the engine that spilled its guts. Once I saw that it was just the radiator I fired the ***** back up and drove it home, **** it. I want to see how tough these engines are.

Now we get into what this post is about, trying to get a radiator for this thing. Well our friendly auto parts store people are worthless, if it is not in the computer then they dont have it. Well I made the drive down there and opened a book.............dare I say a book. Now in the book it shows that A/C and cars with HD cooling have a bigger radiator, part #433497. This is also the same Radiator for a 1974 dart 225 with A/C in the computer so they can find it for you. Also get the upper hose because it is different and cut to fit but easy to do. Since this is my driver I want to try and get every MPG out as I can. I can tell you that at 65-70MPH it is turning some RPM and that propeller up front has to be sucking some sort of power so off it comes and in goes a 16" electric fan. A bonus is that the new radiator has a 3/8 pipe already tapped into it so that is perfect for a thermostatic switch. While I was at it I put in a new water pump and hoses all the way around. Enjoy the the pics.

dart18.jpg


dart20.jpg


dart21.jpg


dart22.jpg


dart23.jpg
 
Last edited:
-
Back
Top