CrOoKs
Well-Known Member
Got the black on the pedal arms. Also ordered new rubber pedal pads
1969 DART CUSTOM FULL RESTORATION
- Thread starter CrOoKs
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CrOoKs
Well-Known Member
I checked it over pretty good before buying it and it didn't look too bad. I figured front floor pans, front and rear frame rails and front fenders would be majority of it, however that all changed when I cut the floor out and found it all through the inner rockers and rear section. At that point it's better to cut the floor out to repair the inner rockers in my opinion. Plus I want to do this once and do it right to help keep the value up.
CrOoKs
Well-Known Member
She lived on gravel so the dust built up underneath turned to mud in the rain is the reason it did so bad.
Just wondering what method you chose to set your 4 rails. Did you tram/centerline/datum gauge off the opposing and do them in pairs, or did you drop points on a surface plate to set a floating grid and triangulate?
CrOoKs
Well-Known Member
Mainly just took measurements from common points and only replaced the fronts one piece at a time. I traced the frame rail with a red marker onto original inner fenders, measured the front in a "X" pattern, drilled out the spot welds and left the old inner fender in. Then removed the rail then installed the new rail using self tapping screws until it was all lined up. After I replaced the rail I replaced the inner fender. I kept as much stuff intact as possible then I moved to the other side. As for the rear I just took some measurements from common points, but knowing I have the old floor pan to relate back to.
kc0r8y
Well-Known Member
Wow awesome work so far man! Gotta love the 69s! Going to be killer when you're done.
I was just curious. Anybody that attacks a car that way definitely has skills and a plan. As long as you've got a few fixed points to go off of I'm sure it'll be good. I'm convinced that these cars were originally built with cheap vodka and a yardstick.
CrOoKs
Well-Known Member
Ha ha I agree! I bet you could be 1/4" off and still get it within spec lol. I know I'm doing it the hard way one piece at a time and tacking things only to remove the weld but that's all I know to do to keep it rigid and square with no access to jigs, etc.
It'll be fine. The tram does the same thing as a tape measure, just fixed. A tram or tape works 2 dimensionsally. The centerline and datum take vertical relationship into the equation (3D). Basically an AB(intersecting circle) measurement with the CD measurements factored in to determine height relationship.
If you're off a bit on the front you can adjust your K-frame orientation. Either shimming for height/level, or elongate the holes for orientation to centerline. You can still pull caster numbers, don't worry.
In the rear just keep it straight. Your new floors aren't gonna match the originals. As long as it's straight the height and pitch don't matter. The only thing it will effect is possibly pinion angle, and that's easily fixed.
If you're off a bit on the front you can adjust your K-frame orientation. Either shimming for height/level, or elongate the holes for orientation to centerline. You can still pull caster numbers, don't worry.
In the rear just keep it straight. Your new floors aren't gonna match the originals. As long as it's straight the height and pitch don't matter. The only thing it will effect is possibly pinion angle, and that's easily fixed.
CrOoKs
Well-Known Member
I will be moving the spring perches in 3" so I can adjust the pinion angle before welding the perches back on. I worked at a body shop for a year and I am familiar with the tram system. Thanks for your info!
No problem, I knew you weren't 18yrs old playing around on your parents front lawn.
CrOoKs
Well-Known Member
Got the stuff back from being blasted. The kmember welds looked like bird turds so I'm cleaning it up. Epoxy coated the frame rails, painted the calipers. My AMD shipment shows to be here Tuesday.
CrOoKs
Well-Known Member
Finally got the kmember cleaned up to an acceptable condition. Also added a support plate on the bottom seam. I've got new strut rods and bushing for it as well.
CrOoKs
Well-Known Member
New strut rods and polyurethane bushings installed. Wanted to get a feel of what the color combo was going to look like. So far I'm happy with it.
CrOoKs
Well-Known Member
Had a few hours tonight and made some good progress! Just screwing things together at this point. I really love the look of a new floor from the bottom side!
These floor were originally put in from the rear of the car working forward from what I can tell and since I already had the main floor pan in it got a little tricky. I ended up trimming the edge of the floor at the end of the rocker in the passenger side so I could get the floor up in its correct spot. I'll weld the piece back in and it'll be good as new.
These floor were originally put in from the rear of the car working forward from what I can tell and since I already had the main floor pan in it got a little tricky. I ended up trimming the edge of the floor at the end of the rocker in the passenger side so I could get the floor up in its correct spot. I'll weld the piece back in and it'll be good as new.
Blind Squirrel
Well-Known Member
Mad skills and speed!!! Wow. Got a color combo picked yet? Watching with glee!!!
CrOoKs
Well-Known Member
Going back with original F8 dark green. I'm in the air on black vinyl top. I like the looks of the top but no matter how many coats of paint and clear they can still hold moisture and eventually rust. So for now it'll be green with a black vinyl stripe. I'm using vinyl so I can change things up later if I want to.
CrOoKs
Well-Known Member
Made some good progress this afternoon! Everything is screwed together level and square ready to be welded. The trunk pan literally snapped right in place. I'm very impressed with AMD fitment!
Are you going to keep the same color interior too?
CrOoKs
Well-Known Member
No going black but doing the GT/GTS pattern with slightly larger pleats.
CrOoKs
Well-Known Member
Made decent progress this afternoon!!
I stopped by last night checking out Jason's work on his Dart. The pictures look great but it looks even better in person! He is really doing a phenomenal job on the car! The Dart is straighter and more true now than when it left the factory!
CrOoKs
Well-Known Member
Little more progress this morning. 99.5% of the floor is welded in. Only have the rear set foot wells to finish up then I'll start on the mini tubs. I ordered a US Car Tool weld in subframe connected kit and leaf spring relocation kit. I'm contemplating on using rear sliders instead of shackles but not sure just yet. I want it to look like a tough stock appearing car not a "race car."
Question for you all.....
I don't want the car to sit high I'd rather it be low and level so I was considering using two driver side SS 003 leaf springs. What's your opinions? Remember it's a 440 car.
Question for you all.....
I don't want the car to sit high I'd rather it be low and level so I was considering using two driver side SS 003 leaf springs. What's your opinions? Remember it's a 440 car.
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