1969 Dart Street/Strip (Re)Build

-
That Suuuuuuuuuuuuucks. Sorry to here all this...that is a serious leak though, think it's time to find out where it is....

It's the rear seal of the pan where I couldn't get access I'm betting. It didn't leak THAT bad before I changed the pan and I wasn't confident with it sealing either when I installed it.
 
I had an Australian friend here in the states on Monday that stayed overnight on his journey across America on his Harley. He's into cars as well, Chevy mostly. His friends have some pretty sick rides back in Perth. But anyhow, I figured it didn't matter the state of the Dart so I took he and my wife out for a short cruise. At one point I blasted it through first and second, touched third and let out like normal. That's somewhere around 90 or 100 mph. I slow down to speed limit and cruised to the next light. I'm sitting there and then I see a cop coming. Ahhh **** this is it. I've been busted finally. He comes up behind me, pulls over to the right turn lane and stops. I didn't even want to look over but I did. I glanced over and he gave me a big thumbs up and drove on! Damn I got lucky! The Aussie was pretty impressed at the little naturally aspirated small block too and he had a heck of a good time with us. Wish I would have set up the go pro that ride! That would have been gold.
 
who says....cops can't be cool? (not me).

have you drove it since you made the adjustment?
 
who says....cops can't be cool? (not me).

have you drove it since you made the adjustment?

No I actually found what could have turned into a serious problem in the rear. Check this out

0F1E9DB6-774A-47BB-9981-AC5780D1665A.jpg


The Dr. Diff brakes are hitting the frame and pinching the lines. Both the caliper body and the lines are hitting. Going to have to raise the car, notch the corner of the frame, or change the brakes, again.

1CD15C09-55E3-4BF4-8B19-9F051807F986.jpg


D65A3F3D-4D23-4A29-B047-E6BD2E88FD90.jpg


I'll say I was fortunate those were braided lines and not just rubber and that I found this sooner than later. Had I lost the brake fluid it could have turned into a bad situation, especially with how I drive this car too.
 
Trans is back and built. This thing looks cool as hell.

24139E40-708A-4D07-A9BB-D365F029BEDC.jpg


B6769EF6-6435-4664-8309-0D59F695817A.jpg


D80215F0-25F1-4F66-8238-6FD54A754470.jpg


F8F7EA83-DF7B-44AD-8FEC-CEE4EA22EE36.jpg


E6B337F0-C00E-4B11-9559-D5370496118B.jpg


67F5A09E-CDF8-4FF2-8431-32752F41CCD6.jpg


78A6E6C5-BE22-4649-9470-8107A2381BFE.jpg


29166A00-881B-44E5-BD61-DE45306AFEA9.jpg
 
It does look cool. Tell me about the trans. What is it and who built it ? If you don't mind

It's a 200-4R with the bell housing cut off. The Extreme Automatics billet adapter plate allows me to install a Reid SFI bell that bolts directly to my engine. It has a Vasco 300M input shaft, Extreme Automatics forward billet drum, billet servo, trans-go kit, valve body mods, manual lockup wiring kit, Hughes deep pan, Lokar firewall mount dipstick, etc. US Car Tool makes the weld in crossmember for the swap as well. I had FTI build the 4500 stall single disk lockup converter. The big appeal is the fact that it has a deeper first gear than a 727, it has a .67 OD which will allow me to run 2K rpm at 60 mph with 4.10 gears, and I don't have to cut the transmission tunnel since the 200-4R has a small case. A local buddy of mine built it. A lot of guys around here go to him. Pm me if you want his contact information.
 
I forgot about the camera adding 5 lbs (good one)....nevertheless, that's great....I will keep that lil' feller in mind for the wire car build
 
Here's a comparison of it next to the car and with my hand on it to get an idea of the size





 
Got around to pulling the engine. Looking at the sealant I applied, it's no wonder it leaked so bad! At least now I can access it better and make sure it's done right. It looks like to me that the other leak must be coming from the rear main. That's the only area that appears to have fresh oil coming out from it. Plug areas all look dry.









I kind of wonder what this block came out of



 
Here's a video a took a few weeks back. This is when I tried out the oil absorbent pads that didn't work. POV from driver's seat. Didn't want to incriminate myself too much so I blurred the speedo.

 
WOW Cos that thing sounded nasty FUN !! what itthe motor build in that ? It seemed to buzz nice . you get thet to Hookand your going to have PERMASMILE
SOUNDED GR8 with nice response .ANOTHER RED ROCKER WFO NICE WORK shoot me a pm what you know about the engine . Deffinetly looked like a good adrenalin fix . KEEEP ROCKIN winstoninwisc
 
WOW Cos that thing sounded nasty FUN !! what itthe motor build in that ? It seemed to buzz nice . you get thet to Hookand your going to have PERMASMILE
SOUNDED GR8 with nice response .ANOTHER RED ROCKER WFO NICE WORK shoot me a pm what you know about the engine . Deffinetly looked like a good adrenalin fix . KEEEP ROCKIN winstoninwisc

Info is buried in the thread but here's some specifics of the engine:

-340 block
-4" forged Eagle rotating assy (417 c.i.)
-Custom JE pistons 11:1 CR
-Comp custom grind cam 266/272 @ .050 .645 lift
-Custom Rev 2.055 intake valves
-W2 race heads ported by Chad Speier
-Edelbrock Victor W2 intake
-TTi 1-7/8 headers
-4 bolt mains
-Holley 950 HP
 
Engine run stand, cherry picker, and engine stand.



Here's some shots of the interference I have between my rear disks and frame.













The calipers hit at 11 inches at the coilover and the coilover can compress to 10.75. So I'm needing at least another .25" clearance. At this point I'm just going to raise the car for simplicity.
 
yah I'd sure hate to hit a bump and then be oiling the tire, and then find out I got no brakes at
110 +, that look tighter than hearders on an EARLEY A BODY but in a worse spot on a very needed part , the break line. ouch 1 wont steer , 1 wont stop = fab time or 911
 
WOW that is a really nice ride you have got.
I got my engine together is a 418 stroker,

SAM_1396.JPG
 
-
Back
Top