1969 Dodge Dart GT “driver” build

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I had mounted some scab 205/65R15’s on the 15x4 front runners. They look a little wide for the wheel but the 165/80R15’s always looked flat.


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I’ve owned this car for a very long time and over the years I’ve evidently done a lot of questionable wiring hahaha. It wasn’t all bad though I recently did the MAD wiring update and headlight relay kit from crackedback.

I’m going to be getting rid of a ton of stuff; electric fan and relays (going clutch fan/shroud), trans temp gauge (4 speed), aftermarket heater (rebuilding a factory box I found at Mopars in the Park for $25).
 
I just got started and figured I would start a build thread. It won't be done anytime soon. Plan of attack is to use my other darts 318 and have a driver until i win the lottery to build my 340. I have the 4 speed, hump, pedals,etc. missing shifter/clutch/shifter rods.
Car will be all black still haven't decided on the rear stripe.

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found this knife behind the dash (along with an alaska key chain)
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Damn Photobucket is annoying.
 
The parts I had for the rear window regulators were either missing or junk so i have to swap them. I think I spent 3 hours on 1.
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Celebrated a win last night. When it starts to move it’s almost like getting a nibble fishing, full turn “GET THE NET!” :lol:
 
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Without the glass attached to the quarter window it took me about 15 minutes to install. I’ve got one left to do and I’m not sure what’s easier, dealing with broken bolts are dealing with the glass attached while installing.
 
Looking good buddy! Will you have ready for the MoPars in the park show?
 
Looking good buddy! Will you have ready for the MoPars in the park show?
Thanks! Hoping to have it up and running by April. The front and rear glass will be the last to go in. If I have to I'll wear a helmet and pray it doesn't rain :lol:
 
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I’ve got storage lined up for this winter. Hopefully I can find some long term storage until I figure out what I’m going to do.
 
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Gaps are as good as I could get them. 100% worth taking the glass off and risk breaking the bolts off.
 
I mounted some scab 235/75R15’s on my cop car steelies (pretty close!). The red car had the leaf spring inboard kit so they had 275’s.

I was planning on throwing some cam bearings in and swapping the cam but the tool came apart. Had to drop the pan and then I figured I should probably clean the lifters so the heads had to come off.

Replaced the wiper seals and did the grease fitting mod.
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Running out of time and decided to run the automatic for this year. I’ve had a ratchet shifter forever and couldn’t find the factory shift lever for the life of me. Fellow Mopar friend came in clutch. Cam was advanced 6 deg to 105 (suppose to be 106) Had balancer issues and I hope the EBay find works out.
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The pre bent tranny lines I ordered required a ton of “finessing” to clear the headers. After I get the wiring cleaned up and radiator hose I ordered, I should be able to fire it up.
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Hemi scoop hood is now junk :(
Ripped after shutting for the first time. Had to use a 3/8 carb spacer and a drop base air cleaner to clear the flat hood.

Stance needs work (rear tires are too tall and the front needs to be lowered at least 1/2”)


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Dropped the front end down an inch, 25 1/2” to the top of the wheel opening.
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I got some more done today. I had bought brake lines a couple years ago. Not sure why it was short but added a little bit of line and a union. Fuel line is in. Welded in the Z-bar stud brace. Hoping I can use the seat belt for the exhaust hangers. I bolted in a gas pedal from a 76 dart I parted out.
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I think possibly the reason your brake line is short (single line going to the rear?) is that appears to be correct for factory disc brakes. The reason I'm saying this is because where it stops (or comes up short) is where a proportioning value mounts. Then there would be a short line to the low pressure switch. This said is if one is attempting to be correct for a factory 1969 disc brake dart. Just my thoughts. Nice car by the way
 
I think possibly the reason your brake line is short (single line going to the rear?) is that appears to be correct for factory disc brakes. The reason I'm saying this is because where it stops (or comes up short) is where a proportioning value mounts. Then there would be a short line to the low pressure switch. This said is if one is attempting to be correct for a factory 1969 disc brake dart. Just my thoughts. Nice car by the way
I figured I ordered it for drum brakes instead of disc (the factory line for the yellow car (came factory with disc brakes) went all the way to the P-valve.
 
Had three heater cores to potentially use, all 3 leaked :lol:
Picked up some 17” crown vic wheels off marketplace $45 for the set!
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