Deservedly so. Crooks.
1969 Race Dart w/ 426 Hemi- garaged for 45+ years
- Thread starter Scott_ 69HemiDart
- Start date
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Hood scoop arrived yesterday. Fast shipping and very happy with Glasstek.
Just got back from the body shop. Hood looks so much better just sandblasted down to metal. The scoop is gonna look great on there. He is also going to build some stancions in front for more rigidity.
Just got back from the body shop. Hood looks so much better just sandblasted down to metal. The scoop is gonna look great on there. He is also going to build some stancions in front for more rigidity.
MidnightSwinger
Well-Known Member
Hell yeah! If you don’t mind me asking, what are they going to charge you to add the scoop? I’m about to do the same thing, I would love to get an idea.
He is doing a bunch of different things. Had it sandblasted, going to fill in all the holes, he’s going to put some aluminum reinforcements, cut the hood larger for that scoop and put the scoop on, as well as paint. When we discussed it with the old scoop, everything was going to be $500. He is local and a small body shop. When I called around others quoted at least $1500 but that was before they even saw it
dartindanno
Well-Known Member
Nothing better than a big bird catching Hemi scoop especially when there is a Hemi under it
Yes Sir
MidnightSwinger
Well-Known Member
You rock, thanks man. That sounds fair,I’m going to stop by a few of our local shops and see what they say.
A bunch of places wanted to see the hood before they would even talk to me. Not very convenient dragging a hood around
MidnightSwinger
Well-Known Member
That’s ridiculous really, these hoods ain’t light. I’m going to take some pics with me, and if they want to see if I’ll tell them to follow me home!
Yeah unfortunately I can’t drive the car to show them 
Just ordered my pushrods. It’ll be about two weeks for them to make them and ship them out.
Pushrods | Smith Brothers Pushrods | Redmond
Pushrods | Smith Brothers Pushrods | Redmond
Just Send It
There goes the neighborhood!
Shoot, man...If I had known you were using SB pushrods, I could've gotten them and shipped them to you. They're 10 minutes up the road from me. Get ours in 1 day.
Good guys. I know them well. You'll be happy with your selection
Thanks Sean said that is who he uses and told me to order them. Just talked to Tony real nice guyShoot, man...If I had known you were using SB pushrods, I could've gotten them and shipped them to you. They're 10 minutes up the road from me. Get ours in 1 day.
Good guys. I know them well. You'll be happy with your selection
Wow 1 day, he said they are at 2 weeks…….Shoot, man...If I had known you were using SB pushrods, I could've gotten them and shipped them to you. They're 10 minutes up the road from me. Get ours in 1 day.
Good guys. I know them well. You'll be happy with your selection
Nice surprise………
Ordered my pushrods from Smith Bros. on Friday 8.18 and they are shipping today. They said it would be 2 weeks, can’t beat that customer service
Ordered my pushrods from Smith Bros. on Friday 8.18 and they are shipping today. They said it would be 2 weeks, can’t beat that customer service
I didn't know asking how a guy chooses parts to get his cr is a problem here. Sounds like a lot of whiney *** people on this site. I know new here but not in this world. This is the very reason I stay away from groups, no grown-ups
mopar head
DoD Alien/Squatch slayer
It`ll be alright Fred, hang out, we`re really a bunch of good guys, but ones with Richard cranium in their sig. line should be a clue
if you can decipher what that means?
You might actually suck a bird or two in there.
Good guy deal with him all the time and met him also.It`ll be alright Fred, hang out, we`re really a bunch of good guys, but ones with Richard cranium in their sig. line should be a clue
mopar head
DoD Alien/Squatch slayer
I`m sure, but some guys go off when someone questions on how they figure stuff.
The last one, I used, was like that to me, I was just trying to learn. He lied and said turnaround would be a month, it took 3. His yelling at me sealed the deal I`d never use him again or recommend him to anybody else. That`s a shame cause he`s only about 8 mi. away
Pistons have a published compression height. If you know your true deck height you can then calculate how far down in the hole you are.
My engine is milled to "0" deck, and a 440 w/ flat tops. So, in my case I am 0.0" down in the hole. It also means in the quench area the clearance from the top of the piston to the head (assuming negligible rocking) is the thickness of the torqued gasket (another published number you will need).
Actual Bore Area times Stroke plus how far your piston is down in the hole x bore plus gasket diameter x gasket thickness plus your chamber size minus your piston dome is your starting volume at bottom dead center. Let's call this "A".
How far your piston is down in the hole x bore plus gasket diameter x gasket thickness plus your chamber size minus your piston dome is your end volume at top dead center. Let's call this "B".
A divided by B is your static compression ratio.
When someone says a piston is advertised at "12:1" they are making assumptions about your engine and chamber. Usually they assume you are "0" deck. I have never seen a factory 440 that was true zero deck when I checked it, usually closer to 0.050" down or more.
My 440 is 0.030" over, stock 3.75" stroke. Engine is "0" deck. Fel Pro blue 0.039" gasket w/ a 4.41" bore. -3.5cc dome Ross pistons. As measured 75cc chamber. This yields a static compression of 11.3:1 with my "10:1" pistons.
Coincidentally, if I had 88cc chambers it would calculate to be 9.999:1 compression (close enough to call 10:1).
Hemis are a whole different animal, huge dome and monstrous chambers... but the math is the same.
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Just finished reading the whole thread. Great build. Would love to see the dyno video and the first fire video as someone has suggested.
The "ladder leaf" suspension you have was all the rage circa early '70's. Nothing wrong with it. Functionally same as a "truck arm" suspension. Your leafs act both as springs and axle locator. It is like a "poor man's" 3 link or 4 bar. No pinion adjustment or height adjustment and not easy to change spring rate. For what you are doing should be just fine.
The "ladder leaf" suspension you have was all the rage circa early '70's. Nothing wrong with it. Functionally same as a "truck arm" suspension. Your leafs act both as springs and axle locator. It is like a "poor man's" 3 link or 4 bar. No pinion adjustment or height adjustment and not easy to change spring rate. For what you are doing should be just fine.
68 HEMI GTS
Well-Known Member
I run these K&N’s on mine. Absolutely no ET difference with or without them on the old combo. Plus the cylinder walls looked perfect when I tore it down. Those nubs stick up through the scoop and I use a washer and small alligator clip to help control the hood from lifting on the big end.
Thank you, Great information!
Thank you. Once the engine is complete and on the dyno, I will definitely post it here...............
Thanks, I don't plan on changing anything with the suspension, again a throwback to the racing era and how it was done in those days.
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