Johnny Dart
Well-Known Member
Nice project.....!
What size tires are on it now ?
What size tires are on it now ?
1971 Dart Swinger
- Thread starter AnotherA
- Start date
-
Removed the steering column, ps pump, and ps sector.
Cut the dash a bit and finished the template for the gauges.
And then took some pictures. I have to watch out how much time I waste with the camera because I get a little carried away.
Cut the dash a bit and finished the template for the gauges.
And then took some pictures. I have to watch out how much time I waste with the camera because I get a little carried away.
Johnny Dart
Well-Known Member
What size tires are on the car now ?
4mulaSvaliant
Well-Known Member
I have been kicking the turbo idea around for quite a while now. I think my 360 Valiant would be a sweet candidate. Hmmmmmmmm your post has the gears turning again. Damn it! It seems even more do-able now that I have a machinest at my finger tips too! UGhhhhhhhh. LOL
Here is what I have planned.
Pro Comp Tack and Speedo. 3 3/8
Sport Comp water, oil, volt, fuel and boost/vacuum. 2 /1 16
Wanted to stay with the Pro Comp gauges but the 2 5/8 gauges are to big to fit all of them into the cluster.
The Innovate Wide Band will have a silver bezel so it will blend in better.
What do you think?
Pro Comp Tack and Speedo. 3 3/8
Sport Comp water, oil, volt, fuel and boost/vacuum. 2 /1 16
Wanted to stay with the Pro Comp gauges but the 2 5/8 gauges are to big to fit all of them into the cluster.
The Innovate Wide Band will have a silver bezel so it will blend in better.
What do you think?
Backtobasics
Well-Known Member
Here is what I have planned.
Pro Comp Tack and Speedo. 3 3/8
Sport Comp water, oil, volt, fuel and boost/vacuum. 2 /1 16
Wanted to stay with the Pro Comp gauges but the 2 5/8 gauges are to big to fit all of them into the cluster.
The Innovate Wide Band will have a silver bezel so it will blend in better.
What do you think?
Boost gauge placement...After tach, boost and oil pressure are the 2 most important guages, IMO. I would have them visible, wiht you in the position that you would be sitting in a WOT or drag strip run. That way, your arm, or steering wheel are not blocking these at important times, when quick response and reactions could save parts.
GoFish
Have impressive member
Christmas in January! Getting new parts is so cool!
I've got a "man-crush" on my UPS guy...:love7:
I've got a "man-crush" on my UPS guy...:love7:
Quick update since I haven't had a chance to get out and work on the car much in the last 3 weeks.
The new cluster panel is coming together, still have a lot to do though.
The design portion takes waaaay longer then doing the actual work.
Removed all the plastic trim from the dash and will be making a front panel for the heat controls and figure out a metal panel to cover up the big hole the glove box lock cylinder sits in.
The new cluster panel is coming together, still have a lot to do though.
The design portion takes waaaay longer then doing the actual work.
Removed all the plastic trim from the dash and will be making a front panel for the heat controls and figure out a metal panel to cover up the big hole the glove box lock cylinder sits in.
70Swinger510
Bay Area Swinger
Nice project I will def be fallowing this thread.
Plasma cut the holes and then cleaned them up with pneumatic die grinder.
No fancy laser cutting or bending breaks. Just some good old blood sweat and tears.
I'm thinking I should have did more practicing with welding before I welded the panels together.
It didn't turn out bad for it being my first welding project. I just went to slow and put a bead through on the inside of the panel. #-o
O' well, nothing a little filler can't take care of. And I learned a lesson.
Of course I won't show you what the back side welds look like. :iconbigg:
The panel was shot with a primer so that it won't rust by the time i get back to working on it next week.
I still have to clean up the upper bent edge, drill some holes in the top side for mounting and then prep it for paint.
No fancy laser cutting or bending breaks. Just some good old blood sweat and tears.
I'm thinking I should have did more practicing with welding before I welded the panels together.
It didn't turn out bad for it being my first welding project. I just went to slow and put a bead through on the inside of the panel. #-o
O' well, nothing a little filler can't take care of. And I learned a lesson.
Of course I won't show you what the back side welds look like. :iconbigg:
The panel was shot with a primer so that it won't rust by the time i get back to working on it next week.
I still have to clean up the upper bent edge, drill some holes in the top side for mounting and then prep it for paint.
tyler_s18
k-member
its lookin really good. are you staying with the carb? or fuelie. how did you get the studs to stay in the guage. it looks really good to lol
bigals71dart
Well-Known Member
i have a mostly complete 71 wrecked on drivers door if you need any parts call me alan 417 334 2985
Dadddgumm man...your coming right along!
I am following your thread also....because "I too" am going to single turbocharge my 1970 Swinger.
I intend to use a freshened 88' Roller LA 318. No major modifications to the engine, just pull it down freshen it up and slap a single turbo system on it.
See what breaks, and kinda upgrade as I eliminate all the weak links.
Looking good man, keep that progress coming!
Not to steal any spotlight or hijack your thread, but I am configuring my setup pretty much the same way, passenger side turbo mount:
I am following your thread also....because "I too" am going to single turbocharge my 1970 Swinger.
I intend to use a freshened 88' Roller LA 318. No major modifications to the engine, just pull it down freshen it up and slap a single turbo system on it.
See what breaks, and kinda upgrade as I eliminate all the weak links.
Looking good man, keep that progress coming!
Not to steal any spotlight or hijack your thread, but I am configuring my setup pretty much the same way, passenger side turbo mount:
What size Holset is that? I was looking at the HX50 for a while because of the instant spool up they are suppose to have.
Do you plan on using an intercooler? I'm really leaning towards not running one. If I end up getting a cheap intercooler it will be more of a restriction then a help and cost me HP/TQ.
I hear you on the run it till it breaks and then fix.
Do you plan on using an intercooler? I'm really leaning towards not running one. If I end up getting a cheap intercooler it will be more of a restriction then a help and cost me HP/TQ.
I hear you on the run it till it breaks and then fix.
Thanks for the reply.
That turbo in my pic is a Holset HX55. I am not planning on using a intercooler....at least not at first. I plan on only running 7 psi most of the time on the 91 octane, and 14 psi when I feel like laying down another 100whp....running 116 octane of course.
You can get a good Blow off valve (bypass valve) off any Turbo 1990-1994 Eagle Talon or Mitsubishi Eclipse....there are tons of em' in junkyards.
Do you need any mild steel 2.5" mandrel bends (I only have 90*'s) or T-bolt clamps?, lemme know.
Good luck with your project, you are making nice headway.
Keep it up, can't wait to hear your review.
Kelly
That turbo in my pic is a Holset HX55. I am not planning on using a intercooler....at least not at first. I plan on only running 7 psi most of the time on the 91 octane, and 14 psi when I feel like laying down another 100whp....running 116 octane of course.
You can get a good Blow off valve (bypass valve) off any Turbo 1990-1994 Eagle Talon or Mitsubishi Eclipse....there are tons of em' in junkyards.
Do you need any mild steel 2.5" mandrel bends (I only have 90*'s) or T-bolt clamps?, lemme know.
Good luck with your project, you are making nice headway.
Keep it up, can't wait to hear your review.
Kelly
I got the cluster fabrication finished and its ready for build primer.
We got the frame connectors and the shot with under body coating. They are 1 1/2" x 3" and 42 3/4" Long.
Now I have a place to run the fuel lines.
Also made a little whole in the trunk. Going to weld in a plate and then mount the fuel cell underneath the car so I retain the capacity of putting 3 bodies in the trunk. :2thumbs:
We got the frame connectors and the shot with under body coating. They are 1 1/2" x 3" and 42 3/4" Long.
Now I have a place to run the fuel lines.
Also made a little whole in the trunk. Going to weld in a plate and then mount the fuel cell underneath the car so I retain the capacity of putting 3 bodies in the trunk. :2thumbs:
frogpirate
Well-Known Member
I like the dash mods - I'm planning on doing the same thing. I'm either going to find a no-trim dash frame or possibly fill the holes (maybe even with rubber plugs, in a faux-factory trim delete?) so I can loose all the wood grain. Please post more dash pics.
LOL, and I was just looking at fuel cells, and thinking "who needs a spare tire well anyway.." Great mods!
Ken
Swingin' '73
LOL, and I was just looking at fuel cells, and thinking "who needs a spare tire well anyway.." Great mods!
Ken
Swingin' '73
I'm going to have those holes welded up by a friend. I don't trust myself on thin metal yet.
I bought some tin yesterday to make a panel for the heat controls and the glove box lock.
Here is the fuel cell that I ordered.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM-293220-S&N=700+0&autoview=sku
I bought some tin yesterday to make a panel for the heat controls and the glove box lock.
Here is the fuel cell that I ordered.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM-293220-S&N=700+0&autoview=sku
-
